Ken, Thank you for pointers for curve files. You did sen me your curve file by email a little while ago. Following at your pointers i will do somekind of curve. I'm starting to make some curves when i have installed SP-1 intake and new holley carb. I will install them soon. BUT are you all saying..."Don't worry about the rotor phasing and vacuum plate thing! You are ready to make curves to your box, put your max advance to 40* and start curving" I ask this because no one has told me yet if i have a "problem" or not and how to fix it if i do, step by step. Don't get frustrated whit me. I appreciate your post's so don't get me at wrong way... Any suggestions what to do? Is this instructions right way to check rotor phasing exept vacuum check because i'm not going to use vacuum cannister anyway? http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/phasing/phasing01.html I just find that "howto" :af:ou:
last summer a buy this box lock all the advance and don't worry about the phasing he start but kick on the starter on start up when the engine is hot is hard to turn every one told me is the advance or not enough ground or ....etc i check all that but i read about rotor phasing and try tadam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! only that cost me 6 starter and hour waiting for my car cool down to go my 2 cent phase your rotor when you lock your advance thanks ps.:i'm a french guy i don't have a good english sorry
Hey all Im now planning to run with this box like you whitedrifter and Co2 and Ken, you know me I want to add a crank trigger 8610 and use my Mallory distributor for only the distribute the fire current. I read alot about the rotor phasing and my engine with the actual setup make this , that cant be <-- click for video The cause of the false timing can also be the cheap summit timing light pistol (new) ... But when the engine is hot, she is hard to start and i can hear much resistance. My starter is a Bosch and he cranking faster by cold engine. So i guess rotor phasing can be a issue and i dont want it with the new setup. Found these good information about phasing and fixing, The rotor phasing for Mallory's Vacuum/Centrifugal advance distributors may be adjusted by slotting the mounting holes in the ears of the vacuum canister. And Distributors with electronic advance, and also crankshaft triggers using electronic advance with a distributor, will have a shift in rotor phasing when the ignition timing is advanced! So all who use this must check they rotor phasing... First i should get a adjustble rotor for a small cap Mallory 42 Series S/S distributors, if i cant find one there are two option: 1. slot the metal from the vacuum canister to get proper Position for the 40* total timing 2. You can cut your own brass rotor contact with a wider tip and screw it on to the existing Mallory rotor So i dont find a rotor How you solve the problem whitedrifer, Ken and Co2 ??:Smarty:
Hi Robert, I did not really had a problem whit rotor phasing...so i have leave it alone, my engine start and run OK. I was worried if i had that problem, but seems i don't. I still don't know what to look if having rotor phasing problem and how to fix it step by step instructions. I have watched msd videos but i don't really understad how to fix it and what i must do when i start to check if something at phasing is wrong. (maybe language or i'm not expert at ignition?) I want to learn what to look for and how to go step by step to fix it...so far i have not found any videos on youtube that explain how to do it...so for now i have gived up because i dont have any issues, not sure! All what i have done is locked the mechanic advance, disconected the vacuum hose from vacuum cannister, checked advance before i programmed the unit(advance was about 40-41*) then programmed the unit whit file that Ken sended to me. Now my advance at idle is 1100 rpm/20* and all in at 2000 rpm/38*, at 4500 rpm it drops to 36* and so far it seems work very well. Triggering is done by stinger mag picup in stock dizzy.
