Hi! What ignitions you guys have today in your cars? Do anyone have any experience at MSD 6530 ignition box or do you now somebody maybe has the box? Any problems? How about MAP sensor, do you use it for your engines and what can i do whit it at my box? (i did type some questions in MSD forum but didn't get any straigth answer to my question) , What spark plugs i should use with this ignition? Now i have AC delco R45TSX plugs Thanks.
I'm running one but not using the map sensor. I have had no problems nor have I read about anyone having any but it's only been on the car about a year and 3K miles so it's a bit early to tell... So far my only beef with the box is the 9pin serial interface. MSD should have made it USB. regards
Mark & Larry: Yes i have been there and read the manuals etc. But i wanted some real world experienses whit that box, like Ken posted to me. Ken: That's nice to hear. Yes you are right about serial connection, MSD should have made it USB...no more serial adapters! I have not put my box into my car yet but soon... I'll have to find suitable place for the box first. I'm going to use Stinger magnetic picup for the box because i use my stock distributor and i'm adding MAP sensor too. Not sure what to do whit it...measure vacuum Do anyone use Stinger ignitions in USA nowadays or are they replaced like MSD and Mallory? regards
Ken: Can you give me screenshot or maybe the curve file? I want to see what kind of curve you have regards
I run an MSD 6AL (6420) and an MSD 6A that I am planning on installing as a backup ignition. I've had the 6AL installed for almost 20 years and no problems. The 6A was installed in my '82 Crown Victoria station wagon along with an MSD Billet distributor and never had a problem with it either.
Ok. MSD boxes seems to be quality stuff. More users comments for MSD boxes + curve files over here!(6530) :laugh: regards
You want a good ignition curve. Use 12* initial timing, and 20* mechanical advance all in by 2500 RPM. Then limit your vacuum advance canister to 8*. A stock or mildly modified Buick engine will love that curve.
Thanks for curve example Larry. I will do all that whit my new 6530 box, so after locking my dizzy and put only total timing and disconnect the vacuum cannister, i can do it whit my computer that is the reason why i wanted 6530 box. I will make a few different curve files to try them out. My car has indeed mild modified engine. Ported and lowered stock heads. Stock manifold whit some modifications. TA C113 cam. TA 2012 2 1/8 headers Holley 800cfm carb. (4011) regards
Hi you all, I have a embarrassing and very loooong question for Larry70GS or someone else who can help me with this issue. Some history first... Distributor is stock. My previous ignition was Stinger S-4 what i have removed, only thing what's left is Mag pickup. Mag pickup works great at Msd 6530 Ignition box and do what it supposed to do. I have locked my mechanical advance whit bracket what i fabricated my self. I disconnected the vacuum advance hose but i didn't lock the vacuum advance at all. I did add MAP sensor to my engine. I have not touched the timing at all when i removed the old ingition system and total timing shows now 42-43 at idle (about 1000rpm). I was planning to control this total advance (42-43) from my msd box. Now to my question... I have asked some help from msd forums and i did get some help from there but i don't really understand what i have to do. I'm really newbie regarding ignition and i have a feeling this is not so hard but.... My problem is msd forum suggested me to check few things before i do some curves to the box. 1. Lock your vacuum advance plate to max advance or use msd pn 84211 rotor for rotor phasing. (i prefer to use stock rotor because it's cheaper in here...adjustable rotor costs about 40 and stock about 10) Do i really have to do this lockin thing or is it enough to leave cannister without vacuum? And how to lock vacuum advance to max? 2. Check that spark jumps on the leading edge of rotor to terminal (I did this and it looked fine, spark jumps from leading edge what i have seen but it jumps about rotor width before terminal) Problem is do i have rotor phasing or not? How do i check this and fix it if nessessary? I have watched msd rotor phasing video several times and i understand why it should be done, but don't know how to do that if i have rotor phasing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM <--phasing video. Hope you understand what i mean and if someone would be so kind and tell me step by step instructions from the start what to do and how to do it. And remember i'm TOTAL NEWBIE! This is the msd forum thread if you guys are interested and have time to read it. http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17501 Sorry!
Before you do anything. If you are using the magnetic pick up to trigger the MSD, it is important to get the polarity right. If you reverse the polarity, the engine will run very advanced. 42* at idle? Sounds like it is reversed.
I have connected pickup and box following way: Stinger mag pickup green to Msd purple wire Stinger mag pickup yellow to Msd green wire When the old stinger ignition were in place and mechanical/vacuum advance were working my brother did the timing around 36-38 whit Stinger ignition many years ago and it worked fine.
Markus, You said you have 42-43* at IDLE. Is that right? The stinger S-4 retarded timing by 1 1/2-2* per 1000 RPM.
Markus, sorry for the delayed reply I just got back from vacation. (I will see if I can find a power steering bracket for you this week). Regarding your timing. The MSD only retards timing. So it looks like you currently have 42 degrees of ADVANCE with the distributor locked. You would want to program something around 30degrees of retard from 0-750RPM. This would give you about 12 degrees of advance at start. From 800-1000 RPM something like -22 degrees giving you 20 degrees of advance at idle. At 2500 RPM put in a point with -7 degrees and the software will give you a timing advance curve that increases advance from to 35 degrees advance at 2500 RPM. Try setting this up without the MAP sensor first. I can't see why you would have rotor phasing as you don't have port fuel injection. regards
if you lock your advance you have to phase the rotor that can lead to hard starting ,broke starter nose ,spark jump
Larry, Yes, advance is 42-43, i forget to mention...box has no curves yet because some thread at msd forum they said i should check the rotor phasing thing without curves so the dizzy is at total advance whole time for that reason. I did add http://www.msdignition.com/Products...85_-_Timing_Tapes_for_Harmonic_Balancers.aspx MSD timing tape to balancer...checked the original 0 timing mark first. 1 cylinder to TDC and checked balancer mark...it was at 0, so then i go and put the tape 0 mark to balancer mark at even. I selected right tape lengh based your "power timing buick" thread (6.75") if i remember right. And i know that stinger delayed the timing 1-2* per 1000rpm, that is supposedly reason for high total timing what my brother timed for? Ken, No worries when you have the time for it. I was avare that you were at vacation. Hope that the vacation were enjoyable! Yes i know that Msd only retards the timing, but reason why so "high" timing at idle is what i wrote to Larry. I was planning to leave the total advance to 42-43 and make the curves not go at high what my total is, is this right or wrong way? I have the MAP sensor but i'm not using it currently until i resolve this phasing thing, do i have or not phasing and how to fixit whit stock stuff what i have. So there is no curves at advance and boost/vacuum maps. Another problem is do i really have to lock stock vac cannister to max or is it enough if there is no vacuum at cannister, and how to lock or make some sort of adjustable thing to vacuum advance plate for the rotor phasing. Or am i ready to make some curves without any adjustments? Whitedrifter, So they say to me and that's what i'm worried about. Problem is what i mention above...How do i check it the right way and how to fix it using stock parts an how about the vacuum advance plate thing?
first you can buy or make your its a plate that lock the mechanical advance full open and another one to delete the canister second to phase your rotor with your cap go on the msd page http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx and put rotor phasing in the search section first one is the one you whant or you can go to a speciality shop with distributor machine and they will make it for you (pricey $$$$) n.b.:It's a good time to get a new one call dave's small body hei great guy and price and wow the work he did is fantastic
I did make my own lockin bracket and it looks like in attachment. So i have to fabricate another lock bracket to lock vac cannister movement, will the vac plate even move if not connected at the vacuum? (max position is when vacuum is pulling the plate?) It would be dificult to buy such bracket in here so thats why i have to make my own. I have read that instruction many times but i'm having trouble to understand it. So if i got 42 of total timing rotor should point to exactly to terminal? Easy way to do this, would be the msd capt a dapt but it cost 40 in Finland and stock is costing about 10 and stock type rotor is more easily available in here than the msd rotor. If i'm experiencing rotor phasing can you tell me step by step how to fix it, how it looks like and what i'm lookin for? Machining is not a option, yeah i know it would be good time to buy new dizzy and i looked msd dizzy (pn 8157), but it's pricey (350) and that's not a option either for now.
Sorry, had phasing and sync pulse mixed up, my error. If you know you have 42 degrees of advance then create your curve file and load it in. Without the MAP sensor to pull advance under low vaccum (wide open throttle) I don't believe the engine is going to want 42 degrees of advance. The software gives you a max retard of 25 degrees. If you would start from 40 degrees advance and use my example below you should have a decent starting point. This will give you: 15 degrees advance at crank 20 degrees at idle (assuming 600 to 950 rpm idle) at 1000 rpm you start ramping up to 34 degrees by 2000 rpm. at 4500 rpm we start ramping down to 32 degrees This is not quite what I'm running in my MSD but it was something I created in about 10 min here on my laptop. My suggested curve may not be perfect but I would be happy to see suggestions by others.
