The 364 is the first block and the 425 is the second one (red). I don't have a photo of the 401 because I decided to use it for the build. I have everything I need as far as major parts and with only a sleeve needed, at this point it seemed like the more economical way to go. Now comes the fun part. What parts to use.
What was performed was NOT a proper sonic test. The reason it was ONLY $30.00. The proper way is to have 12 readings per cylinder. One at the bottom of the coolant bore, one in the middle, one at the top below the deck at all the locations at North, East, South & West. The core shift in the later blocks is horrendous, not as bad with the 364. As an example I did one that had .300" on one side & ONLY .090" on the other. So what I'm trying to say is those readings actually mean zilch.
Perfect! Tom when I picked up the blocks and only saw the two readings I was a little skeptical myself. Im sort of in a pickle location wise. The shop I took it to was not all that cordial if you get my drift and they were the only ones in town that I found. Not what I wanted but it is what I have available. I live in a strictly Chevy and Ford local. That shop is busy doing local race guys and doesn't seem to care to much about the average guy who doesn't do this for a living or grew up in town and on the circuit. The machinist that is doing the block work for me is not the shop that I just mention above. He is skilled at what he does and I'm confident in his block work. He has looked at the block and stated he felt it would be a good block after sleeving it. He is a friend of a friend and both do know my concerns about it being a nailhead. That being said he is a Chevy and Ford guy. Again Im in a little of a pickle with being where I live. I am looking at sending the heads out of town because that might be with in my budget. Shipping an entire block most likely won't be. I spoke with Mike Lewis about may heads, since he is geographically the closest and he is sending me some info on what he can provide. I know he has 4 stages that he can perform with variables in between to fit the customer. A stage 4 will not be what I need. Super nice guy by the way. He was very patient with me on the phone even though Im extremely ignorant to this mechanical world. Im not looking to race the motor. Im looking at having a reliable, fun vehicle that I can use mostly as a daily driver to work and some cruising with the family on the weekends during the summer months. Maybe a little warmed up. This is my learner before I start on my 53 Super (still really want a 425 for that project). If I can manage a decent block and good head work and internals I think I'll have a good foundation for that. The 401 is a 1962 block from what I can discern from the heads and the transmission, other parts ect. Its not perfect but its what I've got at this point. I will have to go ahead a little blind with the bore readings. I will chalk this up to a learning experience. My machinist has the block and has two 425s coming down from Canada from some other clients. He will be setting up next week to go through them. He is cleaning up the heads and pressure checking them only at this point so I know what I have to work with. Here is the break down on what I'm looking at as far as the build so you know where I'm headed. 1963 Chevy C10 Long-bed. 5 speed manual w/ hydraulic clutch. A 2.87 first gear ending in a .64 fifth gear. 28.8 inch tires on a 12 bolt w/3.73 rear end. That puts me at a 10.70 ish. I hope that won't be too much. I do want it to be a little fun and torture some tires. At this point its still manual steering with no intention for power steering or air-conditioning. Total weight should come in around 3500 to 3700 lbs max. It's a pig. Im not sure if I can run stock Buick manifolds or if I'll need headers. I have a manual with headers in it now and I'm about over headers. Sound and flow great but I'm always chasing a leak. Maybe thicker flanges would work with the 401. I have a wasted 364 block and heads to use for mock up in the truck when it gets closer for deciding about head work and internals. Im looking at roller rockers and reading on pistons right now. If you haven't figured it out yet I am a little naive in this field. I'll mostly be posting about the nailhead and not the truck. I know this is a Buick forum and there are others that I frequent dedicated to the truck and hotrod aspects of my build, but if there are questions I can answer or waters I can muddy I'll do my best. If you think I need to start a separate thread now that the 401 has been chosen (said with a knock on wood) I can do that. I am totally open to suggestions and flamethrowers for this Nailhead. Jon.
You'll need a GS manifold for the right side at least. Talk to John Codman I did his 425 "Nail" going on probably about 7-8 years ago in his C-10. He's on this forum just search his name. He can tell you a lot. AND, when it comes time for pistons I can supply forged with pins. rings & pin fitting at a competitive $$$$ custom made for your engine & your needs. Tom T.
Tom thanks for the info about Mr. Codmans truck. I thought I saw an avatar with a C10 on here. I'll need to talk with some one about motor mounts too. He sounds like the guy I need to get in touch with. I would be interested in speaking with you at some time as well. Mike Lewis stated you would be the guy to speak with if I get serious about the roller rockers too. Ive read a lot of threads on here about them and obviously have seen your signature info. Again thanks.
I appreciate this feedback, Tom. I've read on other forums to stay away from the 425 because it overheats and can rarely be overbored more than .040" Having your details about cylinder wall thickness and proper sonic testing procedure for the 425 will help me when I have my machinist inspect the block. I've also read that standard over-sized 425 pistons are difficult to find. Is this true? Where do you source yours, or do you sell them? Thanks.
I sell Forged pistons for the "Nail". Competitive in price which includes pistons, pins, pin fitting & QUALITY rings. I worked with a manufacturer for almost 2 years designing these pistons for OUR "Nails". 322/364/401/425 in compression ratios from 8-1 to 15-1. Each set is custom made for your engine/specs.
Tom rebuilt my .030 over 425. I used his pistons and they are as good as he says. I did have to use a GS exhaust manifold on the right side but the stock '66 manifold worked just fine on the left. If I could have located the engine 1 1/2" further back in the chassis I could have gotten away with the stock '66 Electra right side manifold. I didn't know it at the time, but Russ Martin has an adapter that does just that. If you find someone with a set of GS manifolds you will pretty much have to pay whatever he (or she) wants for them. They are rare. I'm not a huge fan of headers because I have yet to see my first set that didn't leak after a while. As to mounts - There is a mounting kit available that adapts the Nailhead to early Ford cushions. If you want, I will try to find where I bought them. All you have to do is design and build the frame brackets. My frame brackets are bolted to the frame (as opposed to welded). The reason for this is that the brackets cover the front brake hoses and will likely have to be removed to replace them. I installed a new set of stainless steel braded hoses before installing the frame brackets. I'm hoping that the hoses outlast me. There's nothing wrong with the 364, but there are parts (including the famous Nailhead dual quads) that cannot be installed on one. There are center sump and rear sump oil pans that will fit the 364-401-425. Figure out which will work best in your application and either will bolt to your engine as long as you use the proper oil pickup. If you have a starter clearance issue, Tom Telesco sells a great mini starter. I installed one just because it was smaller and lighter, and the original starter was junk. There's plenty of room in my C-10 for a stock starter - in fact with the right side GS manifold, the Nailhead fits better then the original 6.2 Diesel. It is also about 150 pounds lighter as installed. Tom also installed the 091 (last three digits of the part number) cam. I think that I got the last unrun 091 cam that we know about (from Russ Martin). Someone told me that this cam is reproduced aftermarket but I don't know by who. The 091 is the most aggressive hydraulic cam that a Nailhead ever used. It does have a very slightly lumpy idle, but not lumpy enough to bother most normal people. I did read an article some years back that said that Buick replaced more then a few of the 091 cams on warranty because the old pharts who bought the cars that came with them didn't like the idle.
