Motor Oil for 322 Nailhead

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by jshanks, Apr 20, 2018.

  1. jshanks

    jshanks Well-Known Member

    I know this has been asked and answered here in the past, but because motor oils are constantly changing, it's hard to apply the old answers to today's product. Anyway, from what I can gather, the old nailheads (specially the flat top tappets) really like motor oil high in ZDDP (zinc). I can't seem to find a lot of information from the makes of the oil as to which oils are actually high in ZDDP. So, what's everyone here using for motor oil? I have a 42,000 mile engine I really don't want to damage.
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  3. jshanks

    jshanks Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry!
     
  4. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    Look at your diesel engine oils, That's what I use in my old engines.
    The detergent in it also keeps the internals clean
     
  5. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    401 and use Driven HR2.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    white72gs455 likes this.
  7. white72gs455

    white72gs455 Going Fast With Class!!!

    I use the Brad Penn "Green Oil" in my 72 and I have Brad Penn "break in oil" for my 322 when I fire it up this summer (hopefully) then I was planning on running the green oil in it as well. It has all the assembly lube and additives ready for break in from/during assembly.
    Bad idea?
     
  8. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    I may not be interpreting what you posted correctly, but if you are thinking of running the oil used for break in again, do not do that.

    There is a lot of contaminants, sludge from the break in lube and particulate metals that are in that break in oil, and why you do a break in and then change the oil and filter.

    I know people who have run their "break in" oil for 500 miles and "didn't have a problem", but unless one is flush with cash and has no trouble doing things over, it is not the best policy.

    So, I would go with; "Bad idea."

    (But then I come from a background in the racing and aviation world, and am pretty narrow minded about some maintenance/safety things)
     
  9. white72gs455

    white72gs455 Going Fast With Class!!!

    I hear ya!
    To clarify, when I go to start my 322 for the 1st time I am using new Brad Penn "Break in oil", only for the break in period. (During assembly I used the assembly lube and an pouch of ZDDP additive I got from my machine shop.)

    Then I will drain and replace it with the Brad Penn green oil.

    That clear it up?
    Still bad?
     
  10. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Glad it was my comprehension skills. :D

    Yes. And Brad Penn has mineral based oils that flat tappets prefer.
     
    white72gs455 likes this.
  11. white72gs455

    white72gs455 Going Fast With Class!!!

    Could have been my writing skills, I spent a lot of time in the parking lot during high school...
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  12. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Well, yeah. That's where all the cars were and the girls hung out.
     
  13. jshanks

    jshanks Well-Known Member

  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I used the conventional for the first year after the new engine build. Then switched to the synthetic which I still use today 6 years later.
     
  15. gsgtx

    gsgtx Silver Level contributor

    what about semi synthetic for the new build,and the first year
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Sure, I'm sure that would be fine as well. My main concern is the proper additive package (ZDDP and Detergent) for our cars.
     
  17. 322bnh

    322bnh Well-Known Member

    Don't complicate your life with expensive oils that are hard to find especially when traveling. The higher viscosity conventional oils like 10w-40 and 20w-50 have as much or more 'zinc' as oils when your car was built. Your original engine has a steel cam and compatible lifters and is nearly indestructible. If you replace it with a high lift cam and use heavier valve springs, then you might need more zinc in the oil. I rebuilt the engine in one of my 55's with a cast iron 56 cam and compatible lifters and at 80,000 miles I had to change the cylinder heads (not oil related) and th cylinders still had hone marks and the cam and lifters were pristine. The oil: Castrol 20w-50. It is still running well at 120,000 miles...I'll probably never wear it out in my lifetime!
     
    bhambulldog, Aussie V8 and Harlockssx like this.

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