most effective engine cooling set-up

I’d like to get opinions and the benefit of others’ experience regarding the best engine cooling set-up for daily driving, specifically in hot climates. Both of my older vehicles (’79 Bronco, ’70 Buick Estate Wagon) have trouble keeping engine temps down during the summer months. As an example, on my commute home today in traffic (exterior air temp around 95 degrees F, A/C running), the engine temp on the Buick flirted with 230 degrees for a good chunk of the drive. Both vehicles currently have stock radiators, water pumps, shrouds, fans and fan clutches.

So there it is: what’s the best combination of radiator, water pump, and fan (electric or mechanical) for keeping an old ride comfortable in hot weather traffic?

 

Start with a .modern radiator, a simple aluminum plastic tank unit is all you need, around $145 from about anywhere, leave the rest as it is, TA water pump or Flowkooler are also worthwhile improvements

 

My Electra does not overheat period. Under the same conditions you listed at idle (500rpm in drive) with ac running it would be about 195* but would very quickly cool down to thermostat temp (180ish*) once the rpms picked up.

I'm using a stock water pump
HAYDEN 2747 fan clutch
derale 20" steel fan (the stock AC spec fan works fine btw) blades 1/2 out of shroud like its supposed to be
trimmed fiberglass shroud from TA with edges sealed with pipe foam tubing and some rubber garage door strips in other gaps.
Champion aluminum 2 row 1" core radiator with stock style cap (stock brass radiator worked about as well)
vacuum advance attached to constant rather than ported vacuum.
Mexican coke bottle for overfow

every car show I go to people are crossing their fingers in traffic and I have zero problems

 

I'm having this trouble as well but not quite as hot as you are getting. I have a over sized Be Cool radiator with dual fans and on a 90 degree day it runs at about 195. I bring this up because I use regular old generic anti freeze from the local auto parts store. Tomorrow, I'm changing it to some fancy stuff (haven't decided what yet). I'll let you know if it drops my temps.

 

Water wetter will drop your temps a little too, but the 230 * the OP has is too hot IMO.

 

I agree - 230 is too hot. Yesterday's drive was the first time I've seen it approach that temp. 195 is more typical, but even so it wants to climb over 200 in traffic, especially on hot afternoons.

I'm going to check coolant level this morning. I appreciate the suggestions. I'll be checking out the TA products.

 

We can answer that question now and save you some dollars. 195 is normal. So is 200.

 

I live in S. Florida. My GS400 was running hot (215 or so). Swapped out radiator to aluminum radiator. I painted it black with radiator paint. Kept the stock pump. Flushed out the system, new 185 'stat and a new OEM-spec radiator cap and it runs perfectly.

 

You could check to see if the lower radiator hose is collapsing when you rev the engine, debris in the condenser will block airflow also bent fins, if it's 230 at the sender it may be much hotter in the head at certain areas. There is an alternative coolant but it has a sticker shock, and requires a flushing procedure. Good luck.


https://www.evanscoolant.com/

 

Any suggestions for radiators? I'm in the same boat

 

Simple two row aluminum from the parts house is all you need, $145 you can spend up to $500 for a welded aluminum radiator if you want but it simply isn't needed

The fin per inch count is much higher and offer PROVEN reliability in every produced since the 80's

 

I like the Evans coolant too. We used in several of our customers cars, it will help bring the temp's down..but it's not cheap....and if you half normal water antifreeze now. It's takes a few steps before you can use it, drain, flush, use their special flush to absorb the water, then coolant

 

When was the last time you had your radiator cleaned? If the answer is never or "what?", pull the radiator out and take it to a reputable radiator shop and have them “Rod” out the tubes. Basically they take the tanks off and run a metal rod down each core tube to clean it. This is, of course, along with overall cleaning of the entire radiator. Flushing and other methods done in the car are not sufficient. Corrosion, solder blooming, dirt, minerals, etc will clog the tubes and this is the only way to really clean them. Remember these cars are 30+ years old. You will be amazed at the difference!

 

If you pay a cheap radiator it will not last long like a expansive. The material and more important good weld process is the key to have a long life radiator, the cheaper isn't nice welded and most manufacture dismiss quality check.
Of course with luck you get a cheap that holds a long time.

The best repudiator design on the market is the extruded fan desgin, they have just one row bu the row is often widen than a 4 row radiator.
Between every row the air creates turbulence = not effective. So prefer a radiator with a wide tubes, like Larry already said.

I'm using the Merziere elelectric pump, the engine gets never over 182F , always around 178-182 also on 90+ Days.
The TA pump is big advantage over the stock. But look also at your pulleys... the ratio makes also a big difference.

 

Is the temp gauge accurate? How do you know?

A rotted/plugged radiator might not throw enough heat to engage the fan clutch. Have you ever tested the system to see if the fan clutch engages?

The best combination involves all the components actually working like they were designed to. Rotted radiators are probably the #1 cause of overheating--although there's a hundred other possibilities from missing shrouds or other ductwork, to failed fan clutches, mis-matched pulleys that underdrive the water pump, etc. I pulled an Olds water pump off that had the impeller broken-off of the shaft, so it wouldn't actually turn and move water.

Have you ever tested the high-side pressure of the A/C system? A plugged/rotted A/C condenser can cause the same sort of temperature problems as a failed radiator--poor air flow leading to high pressure and high temperature.

 

Shouldn't cars run 20* warmer in temperatures 20* warmer? All things equal?

 

Yes, if all things were really truly equal, maybe that would happen. Cars are equipped with numerous systems to keep that from happening, however. Thermostat, thermostatic fan clutch, thermostatic spark advance, etc. All of those components work together to ensure that your engine runs at about 195*, regardless of ambient. When it's 40 degrees outside, the engine should be running at 195* with the fan disengaged and the thermostat partially closed. When it's 100 degrees outside, your engine is (hopefully) running at 195* with the thermostat wide open and fan howling.

 

I have been seeing 195 temps with 350 with 3 core Harrison radiator, fan clutch, 180 t-stat. Cruising today in 90+ temps getting 210 water temp. I have a shroud. But the back of fan blades are even with rim of shroud. How critical is it to be half in, half out? A board member suggested I replace the radiator cap, still need to try that.

Sorry for crashing the thread, but 210 is getting into the scare zone.