I Started over with an easier, and more effective way of modifying the pan. This isn't easy The pan is a rectangle and the sump is square in simple terms, but when yah get into it, the sump is a tad wider at the front than it is at the rear, then yah have the depressions in the steel that run down most of the depth of the sump starting at the bolt holes for clearance for the washers. Also have the rear of the pan where the corners aren't the same, so I welded a piece of metal in there to make 'em the same I also squared off the front cut of the sump. Tell yah what, my hats off to Steve (SRE) and other fabricators/welders and machinists, I really can appreciate their talent and skill for doing this! Steve, Im assuming you did this particular pan for a 350, was it your idea/choice to mod the pick up to external or the owners? This would make it TONS easier to locate the pick up even tho it would require an external line and TA's billet pump cover.
I don't remember if the customer wanted it from the beginning, or if I recommended it. It's always easier when the pickup becomes part of the oil pan assembly! LOL For the internal oil pickups, I fit the pans onto one of my fixtures that holds the oil pickup in place. This fixture has "windows" in it so I can actually see inside the pan and reach it with a special tool to check the oil pickup clearance to the bottom of the pan. Everything that I do with these oil pans as well as all of the proprietary tooling and fixtures was developed and built over many years...…… definitely not overnight! LOL When taking it to the level you're at, and without the use of CAD, I would start with good old fashioned poster board and make the basic shape of how you want the sump. Don't worry about fitting it tight to the pan, just get the shape and size correct. Once you have that, tape it in place and then start filling in the gaps between the poster board sump and the profile of the oil pan. Use small pcs and tape them to the sump. Once you've completed this all the way around, remove the poster board sump with all the pcs taped to it. Carefully cut it apart at the selected seams and unfold it. You now have a pretty accurate pattern in which to start cutting metal with. One of many ways to accomplish this...………..No one every said it's EASY!!! At least no one that has ever DONE one!! LOL
Also, forgot to mention...…………… When starting to tack weld the new sump to the original pan section, make sure you clamp it down to something flat and substantial to make sure it remains flat on the gasket surface. It will still move around some after welding, but it can be "persuaded" back into place when finished. Starting out flat just makes it much easier to do so.
Thanks for the tips Steve! Question, what is the brown looking water droplet looking things on my weld here?
I could really get into this fabricating/welding, It requires a lot of thought and technique which I love doing, I was using my 12 ton Harbor Freight floor press to press divits into the side pieces to conform to the sides of the pan where the bolts go, its pretty cool watching the 16 ga. steel yield to the press, cool stuff!
Silca from the welding process. It actually floats impurities to the top. It shows that you should prep a little better, but its nothing to really worry about.
Only happened on that weld too. Prepping, meaning oil free then buzz a grinder over the steel, or just wiping any oily residue off?
Both...... cleaner is always better. When MIG welding it's very important.... when TIG welding it's imperative.
