Modifying my oil pan.... maybe

Half of the Z-71 option !

 

Doug, does your pan hang this low?

 

Other half is stickers

 

Mark, there are a lot of cheap($50ish) probably China made pans for Chev, etc. If you could go to Summit and line them all up next to the Buick pan, that would be slick.... see what "box" fits into, onto, or over the other one.
Those roundy round pans only have the kickoff on one side, you'd have to buy two,

 

Doing your own pan is admirable……… that's how I started many, many years ago. But, it's not always as easy as it appears. If I were you, I wouldn't try too hard or go too nuts on the "optimum" all out "perfect" design, unless you're looking for every last fraction of HP. The most important part is to have a little extra oil and control that oil to avoid aeration and windage. Just taking the crossover notch away and lowering the sump flush with the crossmember will give you excellent results. Don't forget the inside of the pan though..... you definitely want baffles to help control the additional oil in the sump. Also be sure to "accurately" build or modify your oil pickup to be about 5/16" off the bottom of the pan.
(BTW, my 350 pans are $450 exchange, and when you add up the hours you'll have in it, you'll know why. LOL!)
Pictures for reference.

 

What about buying a stamped steel replacement from Dorman for example. A 231 V6 would have the approximate width.

 

Thank you Steve, that means ALOT!
You 'aint lying its work, measure, trace on a template, test fit, then double check, change my mind, look for more cardboard, start over
Out of curiosity, I leveled the pan, and filled it with 4 quarts of water, my mouth dropped open, it was like the Titanic when the water was going over the bulkheads, and this was just 4 quarts I can see how windage is an issue

 

Yup.... and now think about acceleration and deceleration..... all that oil is up against the rear or front of the crankcase and uncovering the pickup! That's why the simplest baffles will help.... not "cure" but "help" this situation. And then windage is a completely different problem, even though the two issues can effect one another and make it all worse.

 

Don't forget about the around a quart of oil in the oil filter.

Plus its a skirted block so the crank is up way higher.

 

Yup, you have 3 hours in already just looking at it......

Steve doesn't sell his kit? That would be the best way to go, then you just have to do some welding.

 

Never asked, this is more fun anyways

 

That's my next step, coming up with baffles to keep the pick up submerged in non aerated oil, but Im going to hold off on doing that until I remove my original pan off my engine so I can tell where the pick up tube drops into the pan.

 

Don't you have a spare sbb 350 you can use for test fitting?

 

I "thought" I did, but musta thrown it out years ago, that why I bought Marts pan to modify.
My original pan is still on my engine.

 

Maybe I should do a dry sump set up

 

Mark, if you need measurements, I can bolt a 5/8" pickup on a spare block I have here.

You sure the measurements weren't in the box with the Summit & Jegs decals and catalogs?

 

Here is some info that may help and I can take more measurements. The crank throws counterweights hang no more than 1.5” below the deck. You can remove the front hump and go straight down without an issue. Even with keeping the same depth you can gain a ton of capacity doing what you are attempting. This is 4 quarts measured precisely with food colouring to make it easier to see. Used a level to ensure each pan was level both ways.

 

I like Steve's pan.

 

Agreed! Much better than my home made version above! I had Steve make the first all alum 350 pan and it sure is a work of art!

 

Here are more pics of Steve’s work. My pan up top and another he did: