When I move to Florida I plan on using my 67 a whole lot more since I will be able to enjoy it 12 months out of the year, plus have sold off most of the other stuff. It has rarely seen the road the last 20 years except about a once a year weekend outing with some of those being longer trips. It currently has standard manual brakes and the system needs totally gone over and replaced since it has been sitting so much, that and the fact that it's been probably 25 years since they have been touched other than checking them. There are definitely old wheel cylinder issues showing up as well as a hard peddle which is probably signifying master cylinder issues as well. I do NOT want to convert to disk brakes but while I am doing a complete brake upgrade I thought I would like to go to power brakes. I missed an NOS 67 Buick conversion kit several years ago which would have been the ticket. Are there any companies that make an OEM style conversion kit? The car is probably done running the National show circuit but still want it to maintain and original appearance and not open the hood and for it to be instantly notable that I had changed. Or am I better off just buying piece by piece the components that I will need to do the conversion? Thanks
Just order a booster and master cylinder . Just did a 74 Apollo a while back. Got both from NAPA for under $150 . It took a little to get the push rod the correct length . there was a pipe plug on the intake that accecpted a hose nipple and all there was left was a hose. I did go over the complete system and replaced a few lines. 4 new wheel cylinders and brake shoes . It worked out great
I am looking to do the same on my ‘70 Skylark. Is it really as simple as swapping the old master with a new master and booster??
Yes yo have to check the Rod length AND the shop Manual . The Brake pedal has 2 rod holes in it . One is for Manual Brakes and the other is for Power Brakes. The shop manual shows which one is which.
Sorry for being dense but what am I checking the rod length for? Is it just to make sure the new one is the same as the old? I ask because the one I was looking at on rock auto doesn’t mention a rod length. (One of the other offerings does but delineates them by whether the fronts are discs or drums.) I do have the chassis manual for reference. The only rod I see in the diagrams is the exploded view that includes the push rod for the master cylinder?
Does the one on Rack Auto show the rod on the booster ?? If so it may have to be adjusted to the proper length . There is a Clevis on the end that gord on the brake pedal that can be turned to achieve the correct length
This is the one I was looking at. It looks like it has a lot of adjustment on the rod. And thank you for answering my questions!
Its just like the one I put on my Sister-in-laws car. The yoke that threads on comes from your old unit. It will take a little try and error to get it correct . Thats even after measuring it and getting it as close as possible. Just make sure system is bleed completely . Bench bleed the master and then let it gravity bleed at all wheels . The biggest pain in the A$$ is the pin that goes thru the brake pedal. Don't put the lock on it till you have the pedal at its proper place
Great. I think I’ll go ahead and swap to power brakes when I replace the brake fluid. (Bought the car a little while ago and have no idea how old the fluid is. ) Thanks!
