Looks like the larger hose has a split on the end and that could continue under the clamp. Like everyone says, replace the rubber lines. Keep the rubber lines from touching the headers, they look pretty close.
So guys one question my mechanic had was is my gas tank hose setup with the vent hoses correct? This is stock right and how it should look? I didn't know what to answer when he asked. If it is stock he will just replace in the same way. Do you need more pics to tell?
That's the way the factory did it. The larger hose should have a restrictor in it. I think it amounted to a piece of foam. If its in good shape, you can reuse it in the new rubber hose. Or not. This is the 70 set up- http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-Chevelle-GTO-Judge-442-Skylark-Plastic-Fuel-Gas-Tank-Filter-Vent-Hose-/190820430039?fits=Year%3A1970%7CMake%3ABuick&hash=item2c6dc8b0d7:g:iskAAOxyoA1RXDYf&vxp=mtr Buick added an actual filter to the set up in 70. The filter assy will fit and function just fine on a 69 though
Do I need that white plastic filter piece? I doubt he will have that in hand. Also, should I just buy a new fuel pump just in case? Also in my pics does it look like the metal fuel line going into the pump is leaking at the attachment?
If your plastic filter piece is in good shape, reuse it, if not, get a new one. We can't possibly tell if the metal line is leaking, but I can tell you that would be very unusual unless someone messed with it. Once they are tightened correctly, they don't leak. It is much more common for the rubber fuel line to crack and leak. Yes, you might as well have the fuel pump replaced, they aren't expensive.
Like I said, the 69's don't use the plastic piece. The way the lines are now in your car is the way Buick designed it- open to atmosphere. I only posted the link to show you that the assembly is available and that you could upgrade to the 1970 style filter. Or not. Whats nice about buying the assembly off Ebay is that its a "drop in". The larger hose I think is like 1/2" which might be a little hard to find. I know its way bigger than the common 3/8" fuel line that readily available at auto parts stores I would throw a fuel pump at it. It looks like its been in there a while and I don't think they cost more than 25-30 bucks. Cheap insurance
Guys, thank you all so so much for your help. You are saving me money and giving me so much knowledge. I really appreciate it. Talked to the mechanic and told him I will buy the parts and bring to him. I think I will give the gas tank vent a try myself since that seems really easy and to save me in some labor costs. I will take the fuel pump to him so he can do it right. Any tips that I should know before attempting the fuel tank vents? I think I will start with a wire brush cleaning it up and then unscrew the old hoses and put mine on. Should be that easy right? Where do you get those metal screw tie down hose clamps, Auto Zone? Here are the two parts I will buy tonight http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-...f64e306f:g:IiMAAOSw3KFWfePu&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-Ch...ash=item2c6dc8b0d7:g:iskAAOxyoA1RXDYf&vxp=mtr Thank you guys so much. Please let me know if there is anything I am missing or any more information I need to know. Thanks.
To quote Rush, you can do it with one half of your brain tied behind your back. If your buying the tank vent assy from Ebay, it comes with the factory style spring clamps, so no additional auto parts store clamps required.
You can get hose clamps virtually anywhere. https://www.walmart.com/c/ep/hose-clamps The fuel vent hoses have their own spring type clamps, look at the picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-Ch...ash=item2c6dc8b0d7:g:iskAAOxyoA1RXDYf&vxp=mtr
Hopefully your mechanic knows what he is doing, but just to be on the safe side, let me explain a few things. You can print this out and show it to him. The fuel pump bolts to the side of the timing chain cover with 2 bolts. The timing chain cover is aluminum. The fuel pump has a spring loaded arm. That arm is operated by an eccentric on the front of the camshaft. If you try to unbolt the fuel pump while the eccentric is in a position such that it is at full stroke of that arm, it will apply tension to the bolts and threads in the timing chain cover. If you remove the pump like that, it probably won't do any harm, but if you then try to install the new pump with the eccentric in that position, you are asking to cross thread and/or strip the threads in the timing chain cover. The solution is to crank the engine so that the #1 cylinder is about to fire. The eccentric will be in a low position, and there will be no tension on the pump arm. The pump will bolt on and off easily. The only other concern is the metal line where it goes into the bottom of the pump. You need to use a flare nut wrench. The nut can be rounded off with an open end wrench. Make sure the line goes back in straight and again, tighten it with the proper flare nut wrench.
I purchased and installed one of these also. With a near full tank I noticed it would leak out the vent hoses under certain driving conditions with the fuel sloshing around. I used regular worm gear hose clamps instead of the spring type.
How do we know when the 1st cylendar is about to fire? I know that if we remove the spark plug and turn the engine with a wrench on the front we will hear it block out the air which is TDC right? Is that what you mean? I believe at that point is when the spark would be firing right? Is it crucial to get it just before it fires?
In regards to the one with the filter at the top, would that help to prevent it coming out when sloshing compared to the single hose with the open end without a filter?
I have not fully determined if it is only the hose, but when I saw it last the entire pump was soaking wet and it even was pudding up on the top and all around it. Yes that could potentially only be the hose spraying, but the main dripping seemed to be from it pudding up and coming from the top for some weird reason. That's why I was wondering if it were from the metal fuel line or something up above. The gasket from the fuel pump could also be bad and it could be leaking from there and running down onto the pump right? Since its only $15 I think it wouldn't hurt to just replace it anyways just in case while we are working on it no? If you look at this picture here on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-...f64e306f:g:IiMAAOSw3KFWfePu&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp It seemed the fuel was coming out of the copper cap area and running over. I could be wrong though and just seeing the fuel collect there from somewhere else.
Just remove the cap and crank the engine until the firing end of the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower on the cap. That would probably be easiest.
With open vent tubes it would leak fuel out the hoses. No more leaks after filter was installed. Just purchase and install the one that Larry posted, cheap insurance IMO.
So I purchased the vent hose and the fuel pump. For some reason the pump started to leak really badly today. It was a very hot day in the sun and maybe that had something to do with it, not sure. It was still on level ground, just decided to release today. I took video this time. Its definitely coming from the bottom hose, but its also coming from a source at the top and my guess would be the gasket area when its connected to the block. See how the fuel keeps coming from the top as well? What is your diagnosis? Also, is the little hole on the side of the pump suppose to be there? [video=youtube;U1leTlh7dGA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1leTlh7dGA[/video]
The little hole is called the weep hole. When the diaphragm ruptures, it leak out of the weep hole. Very common on an old pump.
