LSx motor into GS California

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by gs_jimmy, Oct 19, 2010.

  1. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Steiner,

    Agreed on the FI part & OD. Looking for tuneability with MPG. This was a daily driver for a long time. The BBB & 4speed really were a blast to drive, until you put $40 bucks in the tank along with $7 in Tetraeythal lead additive (the real stuff, not 104+). Could pass anything on the road and spin dry pavement dougnuts at will (love the torque!).

    As the price of premium is over $3.00/gal again 8-11 mpg sux. The OD feature combined with gear ratio & FI will pull the hwy milage up to a reasonable figure (25-27) for my 50 mile highway drives during good weather.

    Since this will take me a while to complete, I'll be repainting at the same time. Thinking that a triple black GS Cali would be different, with 17" Torque Thrust- D's.

    To get this up & moving I may use a TH700R4 that I have in the shop and simply wire out the VATS & trans circuits. Unless I find a 6 speed Vette or GTO to part out. Then I only need to remove the VATS & should be able to install the original computer.

    Other route is to go 5.3 ($700 with wiring harness, accessories & computer - no trans) and get it all done for about $1800. This would be an iron block engine instead of aluminum. Whichever way I end up going, I have to get different mounts & oil pan (LH8 pan).

    Jim
    69 GS California
    formerly 455 Stage 1 & 4 speed
    LS motor swap pending!
     
  2. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    You might consider a different oil pan Jim. People who have used the LH8 pan in A-bodies consistently complain that the pan hangs almost 2" below the crossmember causing real ground clearance problems while exposing the oil pan to potentially catastrophic damage.

    The most popular pans for that swap and the AutoKraft pan and the JZMotorworks pan. The only knock on those pans are that they don't clear the front steering linkage when it is near full turn to lock. Mast Performance has a new pan due out this month that is supposed to afford more clearance over the AutoKraft and JZMotorworks pan. Holley also displayed a pan at the SEMA show this year that is supposed to be available in spring of 2011. But, no dimensions are available on the Holley pan at this time.

    There is a whole thread dedicated to swap/retrofit oil pans on the ls1tech.com forum. I would suggest it is mandatory reading for all would be swappers.
     
  3. buick46270

    buick46270 Well-Known Member

    I have the Milodon pan i got from Jegs and it fits good and has no steerint linkage interferance.
     
  4. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    The Milodon pan requires a remote oil filter set up does it not?
     
  5. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info guys! I've been all over the LSTech board for that last few months since deciding to do this swap. I'm kinda set on doing the TH700R4 to get going, mostly cause I already have this trans (rebuilt) and it sits on the shelf. The TC support needed is cheap and the wiring shouldn't be too bad to make the lock up feature work. This appears to be an early TH700 out of an '86 G20 van. I'll be flushing it out, doing seals, filter & gaskets (fluffing it up) to get the project moving. OD feature is .70, so this works out to be a final ratio of 2.317 (3.31 * .70 = 2.317), maybe a bit off as the final selection of wheels & tires will affect this.

    Oil Pan - Do you guys have PN's and pricing for the pans mentioned? I really need this to be a bolt in arrangement. Ground clearance shouldn't be a problem with a non-lowered vehicle & 17" wheels (just don't want it to be a "Donk").

    Computer reflash - found a couple places to get this done, $100 - $130 seems to be the going price.

    I believe most everything else comes from the donor vehicle.
     
  6. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    This is a good idea if you are going carbureted. But, if you are keeping the fuel injection and the factory computer, I highly recommend you use the transmission that goes with the engine. You will save your self a lot of grief with wiring changes and building a TV cable set up. Not to mention the awesome adjustability and programability available when using the correct transmission.
     
  7. buick46270

    buick46270 Well-Known Member

    it does, and thats one thing that i liked about it...it gives me an easy way to add and oil cooler into the system and with having the filter mount on the frame rail it really easy to get to and change out without having to get close to the pan and only be able to access half of the filter like with a stock setup.
     
  8. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Well......maybe I should rethink the tranny thing. I could rebuilt the S-10 in my garage and then sell it to get funds for the "correct" trans in the GS. My guess would be either a stock 4L80 or a aftermarket 6-speed unit. Guess I need pricing both ways.
     
  9. Tom Miller

    Tom Miller Old car enthusiast

    Are there any other threads here on v8buick with tips on this swap into an A body, as far as what not to do(to help keep the swap reasonable$$$$)???

    I just picked up a complete 2003 5.3 from a truck,complete with wiring harness, and I have this old 64 Chevelle in the garage that needs a motor,so.....................

    Here are the questions I have,I want to do this on a budget to keep it simple,which add's to the FUN factor for me.
    Time I have,tons of money I don't.
    I'm a machinist,so I can do my own fabrication.

    How much is a 4bbl intake and stand alone computer/ignition system compared to using the EFI?

    Wil a truck oil pan work in an A body?

    my 2003 engine is a drive-by wire throttle, so should it be converted to an early 2000 cable throttle?(if I go this route)
    I have a rebuilt 7004r and mild stall convertor,so I would need to make the TV cable work with either a 4bbl set up or cable throttle EFI,I don't see making it work with Drive by-wire set up.

    Exhaust manifolds from a truck work in an A body?

    Basically would like to know what you have found that works easily(fits),and which mistakes you have found that don't work.

    Thanks,
    Tom
     

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