i have a 72 lesabre w/ a 350 4b th350 trans w/ a 12 inch output shaft...it doesnt leak from the seal but vibrates at about 1200 rpm whille taking off and then goes away...ive already replaced a bad u joint and while putting the shaft in noticed the output shaft moved pretty good...the casing is soild...is there a bearing i have to replace to stop this,and whats the precedure...im afraid my car is going to shake apart and im gonna throw the shaft...that wouldnt be good...the car is close to bone stock but planning a rebuild with the help of the forum next winter...im new and think this site is the beez kneez,lol...the only add to the car is a edelbrock 600 carb...i drive this car everyday and love it so i dont want alot of down time on repairs...thanx for the help...:TU:
The output shaft itself will have some play, don't let that surprise you. The output shaft extension housing does have a replaceable bushing/bearing that the yoke rides on. If it's badly worn, the yoke can wobble giving you the shudder you mentioned. See the end of page 157, continued on 158. The book refers to the TH400, but the procedure is the same for TH350: http://books.google.com/books?id=KKPcTD4nxBsC&pg=PA157&lpg=PA157 Devon
If it's a problem on the input side of the trans such as flexplate or torque converter, the shudder will happen at a particular engine rpm, regardless of which gear you're in. If it's speed related, the problem is on the output side of the driveline. Devon
when i get under the car and push up and down on the yolk it moves sloppy like,and i never had any shaft move like this one...definatly not ujoints...but ofcourse im not going to throw out the idea that the flywheel could be loose to...im going out to play alittle on it today and see...
The transmission's output shaft itself will have some play, but the yoke should not when installed. I'd definitely suspect the bushing. Been through it several times with the same symptom, low speed shudder on acceleration. Devon
ya it is always at 800 rpm when i start to move and goes away at about 1100 rpm... in 1st and 3rd i feel it most...does it foward and reverse at takeoff...
ok...gotchya...just saw that bushing...im going to give it a shot...thanx man for the help...woulda never figured that one out...
At least it's a pretty easy check and fix compared to some of the other stuff. I usually forget to check the easier stuff first, myself. Devon
ya im not a tranny guy but plan on learning more about the inner workings of these things...i cringe when i think about bringing my car to a transmission shop anywhere in N.H...everyone knows everthing untill its broke and in front of them then they dont know anything at all...lol...alot of "it could be's" and the scariest phrase of all..."we're not sure of the problem but after more investigation we will figure it out"...2000 bucks later... ya id rather do it myself open a book or ask one of you guys for a quick reference...thanx alot for the link ,and the pic...greatly apreciated...
just t let you know, if the shaft is moving with the yoke installed, then you may have created some problems with the internals of the tranny as well (bushings, planetaries, case...) if it has been this way for a while. also you may have to change the yoke as well as the bushing if that is your problem because when a bushing wipes out in a tranny, it wipes whatever it is supporting as well. it also sends metal everywhere in the tranny to clog up fluid passages and wedge into the clutches as well..... not trying to scare you but you may have to visit one of those expensive tranny shops eventually.... randy:beers2:
ya it started after i bought it in feb....i had the yolk out figureing ujoints and replaced them...i inspected the yolk for wear marks and seems ok...im going to change out the bushing/bearing for the output shaft and am sure that will solve my problem...but if there is further problems after i get in there the cost of a book is much cheaper then a tranny shop and i absorb info like a sponge so i'll figure it out on my own without the help of the ripoffs around here...believe me when i say that these guys are bad out here...ive seen them rip freind after freind off on cheap repairs and much of the time overlook the obvious problems...im not exactly new at this game...but as far as im concerned any broken part on mine or any freinds car is a reason to learn something new if i dont already know the fix...thanx for the info...you guys are thorough and definatly know your stuff...i always welcome the advice but never recomend me to send my car to a garage...i already own own...lol...but i would and most likely,and will send parts out to forum members to have certain things done...and it seems i now have a good source for the goodies...
haynes makes a good book for the gm automatics. the one i have covers the th350, th400, th700 r4, th200 4r. the new version also covers some trans axles. i see them at auto stores all the time for 20-25 bucks. its a great investment if you want to try to build your own tranny. youll just have to invest in the special tools..... randy:beers2:
i looked for any books on the haynes shelf at v.i.p. 3 days ago and couldnt find anything...im a chiltons guy myself...ive always found haynes to be a general book...but ill keep looking around for about anything for good reference points...most likely ill have to buy online to get what i need though...thanx for the help...:Comp:
Get a manual specific to your transmission type (TH-350 in your case)from ATSG, available from jegs, summit, maybe local parts store, etc. Some trans shops sells them too, as well as parts, but don't really advertise, as it cuts their money from labor. Hardest part of basic rebuilding transmissions is reinstalling the lip seals and teflon scarf cut seals. You can make most of the special tools needed equivalent with 1/4 x 2 flat bar stock and welder and grinder. Get overhaul kit with clutch plates, steels, seals and bushings, and you are good to go. Have fun!
thanx man thats more up my alley...im all over it for my winter teardown...but for the sumer i'll just replace the bearing and seal...:laugh:
get your kit from transtar. http://www.transtar1.com/default.asp they have just about the cheapest kits you can buy but the quality is REALLY good. i get all my parts and kits form them and have nothing but good experiences with them. they have warehouses everywhere. btw. a feeler guage works great when you go to install the lip seals in the multi clutch pistons. you may need the special tool to compress the low reverse piston springs to get the snap ring off. it can be done with out it but its a pain in the but sometimes and the tool is only like 15 bucks. randy:beers2:
