Looking for some 400 info

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 94IDI, Sep 17, 2020.

  1. 94IDI

    94IDI Jared

    I've been doing searches on the forum this morning trying to find more info on the '67 400. I know these aren't as prevalent as the 455's, but there has to be a a good thread on their history/strengths/weaknesses etc. right?

    The reason I bring it up is that I'll probably be replacing or rebuilding the motor in my GS soon, and one potential course of action is to go back to the correct '67 400ci... With that said, there is a guy in Northern Ohio (which is no where close to me) who has one of these engines and is asking $600 for it. He says it was rebuilt years ago, is "complete from intake to exhaust manifolds" and has simply been "sitting on a shelf in his garage"--unused. That seems like a good deal to me (except for figuring out how to get it from Cleveland to North Carolina without spending an arm and leg).
    -Is $600 a good buy?
    -Does anyone here live in the Cleveland area who would check it out for me? I'll obviously pay you some money for your time.

    I'd like to do a 500(ish) horsepower street build (will probably never see the strip) in the next year or two.
    -Are these blocks historically capable//reliable at those kinds of power levels? Or would I want to switch back to a 455 block later for that build?
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Your goal of 500 hp is way too high for a 400 with street manners. You would need a 455 with aluminum heads to be able to use a small cam and make those numbers. On the other hand, $600 is cheap. But you need to assume it may need to be gone through again. My guess is lower 300s for a stock 400's hp. Ask someone that has tested a stock 400 to be sure. It will take in the thousands, not hundreds, to meet your 500 hp goal.
     
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I agree the 400 will make that a hard goal to reach and be streetable. The small bire size effects valve size greatly.......but Streetsble equals smaller cam to most of the time.........smaller duration cam equals lows lift most of the time
     
  4. 94IDI

    94IDI Jared

    Thanks a lot for the info Jim! I'm definitely tracking that I'll need thousands of dollars to get to the 500hp mark. I think that is true with just about any engine. What I've come to wonder is, can I drop in a 400ci right now to have a year-correct motor and to get back on the road... and then make 400-500 hp with its stock bottom end later after switching the top-end and cam?

    Sorry guys if this seems silly. There's just something about putting a 1967 block into the car that seems appealing to me... However, I'm not willing to sacrifice overall function for it. So I'm willing to keep a 455 if that's what I need to do to have a very well-mannered, high-power street motor.
     
  5. Thumper (aka greatscat)

    Thumper (aka greatscat) Well-Known Member

    I'm just east of cleveland. I also build Buicks ,concours. Street/strip, or all out race. I can maybe answer some of your questions. 440 477 6268
     
  6. 94IDI

    94IDI Jared

    Thanks Gary. PM sent
     
  7. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Jared--you are in great hands with Gary.
     
  8. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    ...And where did you come up with the 500 number? If you’re not racing it and shooting for a certain ET, do you just want the bragging rights? The reason I ask is, on street tires and with a driving friendly overall setup, 350 real actual hp is more than you’ll be able to use, and any build that aims for hp will lose low end torque and will need a converter and gears. For the street, torque at low rpm is what you’ll feel and enjoy. Decide what you want to do with the car and then build based upon that goal. I’d consider buying the 400 just to have, but I’d build a 455 and put the ‘67 valve covers and intake on it. It will look the same, cost the same, and have 55 more inches for free.
    Patrick
     
  9. 94IDI

    94IDI Jared

    Hey Patrick, good morning. I knew someone was going to ask the question "why 500hp"... lol To answer that, I do not give a figs ass what my actual dyno numbers are (I'm not even going to dyno it). I'm also not "aiming" for horsepower. Just using that term as a descriptor to put everyone on the same page. The metric that we use to discuss the engine didn't seem as pertinent for that purpose.
    Now, The "500 hp" number is just based off some of the parts that I intend to use and what I've seen other people making on those builds (aluminum heads and intake from TA Performance [stage 1 or 2] with my 800 cfm Qjet and a cam to match). I'm thinking I'd like to be in the 400-500 range for both horsepower and torque so that I can can leave my 3.36 rearend in place for happy highway cruising... but still have enough low-end grunt.

    Sooo... a well-mannered, lightweight, torque monster that can still cruise on the highway. Is anyone starting to feel like I want to have my cake, but eat it too?

    Kidding aside, thanks to everyone for all of the info. I'm already leaning back toward the 455. Like Gary said, it's "55 more inches for free" It seems like blocks from '72 or later are the way to go given the superior oiling. I'll call Gary and talk to him. Plus I figured I'd reach out to Jim Weiss... Sort of hoping he'll chime in here at at some point actually.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    With entry level porting on TA Stage1 or 2 SE heads, you can have your cake and eat it too. Just make sure you use a true 10.5:1 static compression with them. Use a 455 block, it will look the same.
     
    94IDI likes this.
  11. SubCool

    SubCool SubCooled

    I just have to ask. What is a Figs ass?

    one thing about the 400 block is it's the same block as the 430 so you can bore a 400 out to 430 specs should you decide to go that route
     
  12. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Its like a Hen Way......
     

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