Yes, standard for 2.00" only unless they have under sizes as well? Need to start with a virgin crank that only needs to be polished if that is the only size they make.
I got on their Live Chat and asked. Was told: Sorry, standard only. Just when you think you are on to something too!
How much power are the cap screw 350 rods really up to? I imagine if you were looking at any forced induction or NOS you would obviously not want a cast rod, but Dave Nelson claimed multiple 6500rpm dyno pulls on the 300 rods. I just wonder if even with TA heads, would forged rods be necessary? At a certain power level I also wonder about the crank with its compromised overlap, which could be helped by Derek’s 2.75 main idea and caps or a girdle. How did Chris end up with 10:1 cr? I’m looking at his same piston (but the Sealed Power brand) and am coming up with 10.8:1. The Silv-O-Lites are a tiny bit better (.010 shorter compression height). What heads did he use? I suppose one could just open up the chambers? Oh, also got a call back from the heat treating place, they said $400 for the set was worst case. They also needed to know what composition the heads are. In the post I had read about the heat treading the guy claimed it was “cheap”, but I guess cheap means different things to different people.
FYI's sake, it's a 350 block that they cut the soft layers off the mains in the line bore machine to use an early 327 crank. The way I've done it was to turn the OD of an iron or HR steel cylinder to set into the block, cut off the cap side of it and pin the saddle side to the block. Then an aftermarket cap gets cut to the proper size. There's little load at the top and now no chance of the cap side inserts wiggling. Gotcha on the conversion bearings, I wondered if that's what you meant and didn't click the link. Thank you. Cranks are welded every day without failure, js.
Wow! $4oo for heat treating! I'd call a few different places. I found you can heat treat the Hyper pistons to T61 also. The Keith Black premiums are. At those prices Forged sound like a better deal. I've heard the early rods have been tested to around 450HP. That was resized and SBC ARP rod bolts. The later Capscrew rods were good to over 600HP but were heavier. I would Magnuflux and sand the sides and shotpeen the early rods. Chris ended up using the Coated Sealed Power pistons. 1.2 compression height. Maybe you are looking at different year pistons. The first ones were the wrong oversize. I was told the 300 heads were soft 3000 alloy. I know from experience high spring pressure will pull out the rocker hold down bolts Chris took the bump out of the chamber of his 300 heads and unshrouded the valves on the outside to the head gasket and polished the chamber. Probably had more like 60cc's instead of 54 cc's. He did measure 10.3 compression. There is a figure you add for the distance to top ring also. Also some valve heads are flat and would decrease cc's where some are concave and would increase cc's. I wonder if you could DIY heat treat at home.
98-01 Ford Ranger 2.5 Sohc piston, standard size 3.78. It does show 1.2 compression height. $230 for 8: https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Pisto...rd-Ranger-2-5l-l4/1237938562?iid=142641499075
If you use the 300 heads check out the early Ford 2.3 SOHC (pinto) valves 1.74 IN and 1.5 EX . You would need new valve seats. Chris used Z28 Chevy springs. He compromised on the valves, the largest that would fit the stock seats were 1.69 IN and 1.39 EX. They were Chevy 3.4 V6 valves cut down from 1.72 IN and 1.42 EX. Check out Alex's Parts for seats and springs.
Bite the bullet and get these pistons; https://www.buyracingparts.com/pist...-pistons-3898-bore-3622-stroke-6125-rods.html Order them with a smaller bore size and the size wristpin for something like these; https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Pankl-6-...ash=item4b2d051028:g:9skAAOSwySlaCD-2&vxp=mtr The above rods have 1.850" AND 1.889" rod journal size bearings available for them. You can stay with the standard sbb 340/350 stroke and get the crank's rod journal's ground down to 1.889" and order the pistons with a around 1.400" compression height or stroke the crank to 3.990" and order the compression height closer to the size in the description of 1.350". You can also change the bore diameter you order these pistons as, just make sure there are good ring packs available @ the size you order them too. Would make things a WHOLE lot easier for this build than trying to save a few pennies on pistons.
Ok that makes sense, at 60cc you would be right around 10:1. Summit has the pistons right now for $66 dollars for a set of 4 and the moly rings for $35/4. I have a 20% off coupon so I'm trying to amass as large of an order as I can. The cap screw rods should be here any day. What ARP bolts fit? I have heard that you may not need to resize cap screw rods with new bolts but I would check in any case. Interesting note, I had wondered about using my iron head 300 intake and exhaust valves because the intake is larger and the valves on the 64 heads are shot. But it looks like Buick moved the plug hole to accommodate the larger intake. Probably the stage 1 valves are the largest safe option. Here is a pic of the iron head valves in the aluminum head with the iron head right next to it.
If you move the valve locations you can fit those valves no problem, I've done it on a set of sbb 350 heads it should be easier on sbb aluminum 300 heads. Or makes aluminum plugs to weld in where the spark plugs go and drill and tap them in a different location?
Actually it looks like the same plug location, looks like the aluminum heads use the bigger older style spark plugs.
The capscrew bolts are reuseable. Did you order the reconditioned rods like Chris did? I would still clean up/sand the sides. If not you should measure and if not round have them resized. All the machine work Derek recommends may be easy for him. I know I would screw it up or couldn't afford to have someone else do it. I think personally Chris's build was better than the Hot Rod mag build. He made cost compromises and ran into some issues with Megasquirt, but has a better rod ratio with the 350 rods and a modern piston with the lower drag rings without spacers. With the bigger cam and valves we would have made more power and torque too. The stock intake is a restriction also. He did the Doc's mod and struck water and need to tig weld it. Dan Jones said the stock intake was much better Extrude Honed. If it was me I would use the spacers and use the Rover Edelbrock Performer, Offy Equa Flow or Wildcat intake with Fitech or Holley Sniper EFI.
Dan Jones used Buick V6 valves 1.77 IN and 1.45 EX if I remember correctly and they were practically touching. You have to remember you have to have room for the hardened seats too. The early Ford Pinto 2.3 Sohc valves are cheap and fit nice. Quite an improvement over the stock ones. It might be a good idea to do steel spark plug inserts to use the newer plugs but make sure they are the same reach.
Good eye Derek, you may be right. I will measure and see if that can tell us. Jim, I did order reconditioned rods. The valves Dan Jones used are $275 for all 16, and do require interlocking valve seats. What kind of price are we talking about for the Pinto valves?
About $100 for 2 sets of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/74-94-Ford...ash=item464f132160:g:~ZEAAOSwqu9VHsge&vxp=mtr
We heat treated our new head castings 900* for 9 hrs, then cooled 100*/hr, but are a different alloy. You can DIY them if you have a similar capability.
Thanks, I don't have the capability though. On the 300 heads I would chase all the threads with a bottom tap and do timeserts in the rocker arm hold down holes and maybe the spark plug holes. Retorque the head bolts after the cam break in and again after about 500 miles. I went over 200,000 miles on a stock 64 300 before it needed a rebuild.
Wow that is a big cost difference for pretty much the same size valve. Do you know anyone who has run these? I just know that sometimes things look good in theory and end up having unforseen problems... The heat treat guy said they would have to be quenched and artificially aged?
I ran them about 30 years ago on the recommendation of Phil Baker, now deceased. I had a 63 Buick Special and a Jeep CJ5 that used 215's and other Jeeps with Buick V6's over the years. I followed all the Kenne Belle and D&D mods over the years too. The 215 is a little small and the V6's had better heads and a little more performance potential. I had a 64 Buick Skylark with a 3oo also. You could run the GM 3.4 V6 valves too. Slightly smaller and require new seats too.
Article on Phil Baker for reference: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/affordable_aluminum_v-8.php
