Going to do up some of my 71 and 72 buick peg legs. Will the work with new axles and 3.08 and 3.42 and 3.73 gears? And bearing kits are different size bearings as well. also would like a 1350 on the pinion too. Maybe Monza or someone has some of that stuff. I have the gears ... Thanx
How many axles are you doing? The newer units have a larger bearing hub,so they take the LM102949/LM102911 bearing/race combination. Steel yokes are available for 1350 yoke,but the factory 3R yokes will take plenty of abuse. What are your plans for the cars that these are going into?
I have 3 and all are 2.78 or something. want gear drive, and whatever bearings i need for 71/72 8.5 housings . I have never had a factory yoke break, but when i was a kid in the Salvage yard we would see what everything could take for abuse. there were some mopar tranys that would up shift with lever in low before the engine blew. and shifting from full throttle forward and reverse twisted the yoke on the drive shaft in nova and chevelle wagons. So stock yoke would do me fine then. So gear drive unit and LM102949/LM102911 B/R will get me going?
so you want a true trac (that gear type unit? ) Y/N? You want NEW axles too? Rebuild kits You said you have all the 3.08, 3.42 and 3.73 gears? Jim JD
What exactly are you planning on doing with them? How much power are you going to put to them? The factory 28-spline shafts will take a lot. If you are going to get aftermarket shafts,then get 30-spline.
It's so much easier to change rears and tires than it is to change gears., till i get what i want for RPMs with M20 or M21 .. Well my furnace went out last night so that will suck 2500 out of my pocket. (Damit) Power is 500hp 4 speed with sticky rubber Yep have all ,, 08 , 42 , 73 for 8.5 housing. Need gear type (Think they are the best for drag, or not?) I had a 69 P0ntiac GTO back when, and it had a 12 bolt from the factory, beat the hell out of it and one day leaving an intersection nice and easy the axle broke right at the end and that big tire broke the side and back glass not to mention the body of the car was so bad i drug it to my dads salvage yard where it sat for 5 years till i fixed it. It had a bored 72 455 4 speed in it. Sold it in 2000. Anyway i don't want that to happen ever again!!! So, just going to do one in 308 for now.
It’s not so much the HP,it’s the torque output and the blunt force you put on the rear. Things like a trans-brake,slicks,stick-shift will all put more stress to the rear. People break the rear at the tree,not at the other end. The factory 8.5” shafts will hold up under a 3900lb Skylark/GS,with an automatic,and stickies,running 11:70’s. Anything more than that,and you start taking chances. If you also have intentions of making more power and going faster someday,then just do it once. Go right to aftermarket 30-spline axles,and the matching unit. Here is an 8.5”,with 30-spline Mosers,that I just shipped Monday,going behind a stroked big block,making over 600 HP and TQ,and running it through a Keisler 5-spd.
The recipient of that rear will be doing that happy dance... (nice) Yep, do it once! Also will be tig welding the axles to center section.
Welding the tubes to the center is a little overrated. If the tube wants to move,it still could. I’ve seen them bend,but I have also seen them rip the side of the pumpkin out. I’ve even seen a Moser 12-bolt fail in that area,and that was a street-driven footbrake car,running 10:03-10:05. In the other hand,one of my 8.5’s is not welded,nor does it even have a girdle cover,and it is running high-10’s in a stick car. Welding the tubes is not a cure-all,but it can’t hurt either.
Can not hurt.... part. ... if you use too much heat it can temper and or bend the tub if you do not know what your doing on the welding deal. Just had to add that in there.
