Spray some brake-clean on a rag or folded paper towel and run it along the top surface of the head that the valve cover mates to .. repeat with a clean portion of rag/paper towel until NO RESDUE is seen on the rag. Do this for the whole mating surface all the way around .. Personally, I use cork valve cover gaskets and permatex them to the valve cover only .. no permatex on the cork to head side (I put a very thin but covering layer on the valve cover and also on the gasket .. then press the gasket into place on the valve cover). They compress a bit, so re-tighten/snug them back down after first install but before startup, and then again after a few runnings of the motor. Doing it this way, you can take the valve covers off, clean the head and cork surface as above, and re-use them multiple times
That’s how I do it, but I put weight on the valve cover while the RTV dries and install the next day......
Be sure to use the correct valve-cover bolts, they have the retaining plates to ensure even pressure and are precision-length so that they can't be over-tightened. I put a new set on my 430 after I had my covers re-chromed like Briz did on his engine (a nice touch). I think they look as nice as the Postons or TA Performance, and still fit under the A/C bracket.
Why are you using rtv? It will be leaking again by the end of the year. Especially if you use any type of synthetic oils
Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker to be exact just to hold it into the VC. What do you recommend? I use nothing but Brad Penn oil.............
I used the 3M weather strip adhesive on the part that connects the gasket to the valve cover. It stays glued forever and stays with the cover if you ever have to remove it. Just glue the one side. Mine stayed glued for 20 years they are just now starting to leak.
The last set of cork gaskets I installed (do not use anymore) I applied a few dabs of rtv just to hold the cork gasket in place. I switched to the fel-pro rubber style gaskets because i was unable to stop leaking at the rear passenger side cover. No problem since.
The stock ones probably do and will leak after a while, probably why they were always glued on both sides. I use the TA valve covers and they are a lot more sturdy than the stock ones. I used the rubber with the stock covers with good results.
This is just temporary until I re-build the top end of my motor in either 2019 or 2020 and install the factory chromed valve covers. Then I will use the rubber style gaskets! Are they all rubber or the cork/rubber composite?
The torque specs for the rocker covers states 4 lbs. Personally, I use a 1/4" ratchet and tighten to tight, not over tight. A couple of weeks later, I retighten
X2 Yep, about that much, and using two fingers and thumb at the socket end of the ratchet and you will never over tighten.
I actually like the stock covers over the aluminum ones, BUT the aluminum don't leak. I use the TA covers with the rubber gaskets with no sealer/adhesive
I use the stock cork gaskets with either black or copper RTV to hold them onto the covers. I use my little 1/4" Facom thumb ratchet to tighten down the bolts. If I see any leaks anywhere, I use RTV on the mating surfaces to fill the gaps. I'd considered getting TA or Poston aluminum covers, but drilling for the AIR components and getting the clearance under the A/C bracket could have been a hassle, so I just chromed a stock set & put it on. I still have a set of stripped covers, may get those powder-coated the color of my paint (chrysler code PC9) and try them on as an option one day.
