Lazy Lifter

Wait a minute. In that first picture, what is the deal with the yellow piece of plastic where the rocker arm button should be on the top rocker arm?

That would be the *first* thing I would be looking at before you do anything else. That is not normal.

 

The rocker and rocker arm looks good to.

Its a replacement. When i pulled the head off to have them rebuild, back in the day, i found a few cracked ones. Thats what the auto parts store had at the time. I have since purchase new ones.

 

Replace that with the round stock style rocker arm button and run it and see what it sounds like. I don't know about anyone else, but I've never seen that style of rocker arm retainer before. It just looks to me like it could possibly keep the rocker arm from rocking without binding.

 

Surely can hurt to swap that one out. I'll do that and report back. Just don't see how that would cause so much noise.

 

Waste of effort. Accomplishes nothing useful.

Pump oil (I use ATF--it's thinner at room temperature) into the hole in the side. When the lifter is full and the oil is coming out the hole in the top, you've verified that the lifter will pass oil. You can also apply pressure via an old pushrod to assess the leakdown rate.




After filling the lifter(s) you will need to be careful how fast you tighten the rocker shafts--best to give the lifter time to bleed-down as the rockers are tightened into place. This is probably more important on engine families with individually-adjustable rockers.

While this is all apart, be sure to verify that all oil passages are free-flowing--hollow pushrods, the holes in the rocker arm, etc.

 

I've used those square buttons before years ago, no big deal, wont change anything.

 

I had a couple of clackers when I woke the SportWagon up from its 26 year nap .. Jim Weise recommended I do an oil change and substitute a quart of oil with a quart of ATF and drive it at most 500 miles.

.. sure enough, before i hit 200 miles everything quieted down ! changed oil again to all oil and its been good ever since.

YMMV

 

Looks like i found the lazy lifter. #1 cycl intake. And the only lifter on that side with markings.



Need to clean the head and get it ready for the valley intake gasket. aside from putting black RTV on the ends of the rubber gasket, will a small bead help around the intake and water ports of the valley pan?

 

Replace cam. It's shot. 'Course, that means all-new lifters as well.

It's a Buick, so replace (at least) the front cam bearing, too. While it's apart, check the rockers and shafts, valve-tips, and timing chain/gears for wear

 

Wow...What next...Rebuild the engine cause of one lazy lifter....ok

 

Do you think the cam lobe survived digging a trench in that lifter foot? That lifter was NOT spinning.

Do you think you can replace one cam lobe?

That cam MUST come out. While it's out, you'd be nuts to not inspect everything else you've taken apart. And it's not like Buicks aren't known for wiped-out front cam bearings.

Wake up.





For the record, damage to the base of the lifter doesn't make it "lazy". You may still have a different lifter that's the cause of your lifter noise--although my best guess is that you had valvetrain noise because the lobe under that lifter was going away.

 

That lifter wasn't turning. Probably the biggest reason it wouldn't turn is because the cam lobe is wiped. Ergo, you need a cam and lifters. If you put a new lifter on that lobe, it will probably happen again before the next oil change.

 

I'm awake now. Just need that slap in the back of the head. I need to replace the cam and lifters...Just a little frustrated with it. Its like a child that your trying to get up for school in the morning. They will fight you till then end but eventually they head out the door.

Thank you for all the help.

 

[Senor Wences Voice] s'allright [/Senor Wences Voice]

 

I don't have the tool to remove the cam bearings. Would a center punch work?

 

Or drag the block to a machine shop.

When it was me, I bought the Lisle tool. But then, my hometown of 60K+ population doesn't have an automotive machine shop.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-18000-...g/dp/B0002SQZQ8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=17XCHMTH4S1JK

 

Yeah..that wont work as the engine is still in the car. Lol. Well there go my idea of not spending to much on the engine. When all said and done looking about $300.00 Rest of the lifters, cam (TA), timing cover gasket set. And still need to find the tool to remove the cam bearing. don't want to buy a tool I will only use once.