k so 7 mpg..

not sure what the ethanol content is out there in california but would try running it with a bit of octane boost to insure full combustion seems to hit hotter every few strokes.would definetly side with whoever mentioned running some cleaner through it,also would flush the gastank out prior to this just to insure it doesnt have sludge acquired somewhere over the last 40 odd years in it,or water for that matter.if you drain it any water should separate from the fuel if you let it sit in a clear container with a bit of food coloring you should see a definite dividing line start to form kinda like water in reddye diesel or heating oil(which is actually able to be burned in at least older diesel engines,no idea how a newer turbodiesel would run it, and is often cheaper due the way its taxed but does amount to tax evasion if you get caught running it so only in emergencies....cbs cares)

 

Topped off tank with Chevron mid grade 89 octane no pinging and mpg up to 10.5 now and thats mostly city driving with a fair bit of full throttle runs to test everything. I still have yet to install new plug wires or bump the timing with mechanical advance kit. Im cautiously optimistic about seeing 15 mpg freeway after these changes which is pretty much what my Pathfinder can manage.

 

Sounds like you're getting there,did you change the coil to the recommended flame thrower,or equivelent,or is that what you have? Or is it still the original 44 year old coil? If it is the original coil,upgrading it should make a big difference too.

 

Yeah,,, listen to 300,,,,what ever his name is,,,, :laugh::laugh:
At the very least you need to get rid of the points or piggy back a capacitive discharge system on to them and then they will last untill the rubbing block wears out.... but a modern ign. system would do wonders for you , if nothing else in maintenance....

 

It is not the original coil for sure but I do not think it is a flamethrower. Service records show it was replaced in 2001 but doesn't show what kind they used. I get the feeling a lot of my problem is these skinny AC Delco ignition wires.

 

Doc,he found out that he already has a Pretronixs setup in his dis.,but he said the coil looks stock. I was curious to know if he upgraded it or not,or found out if it was replaced when the HEI conversion was done.

And I totally agree that a capacitive discharge system would be very helpful,no matter what ignition he's running.


Derek

 

The points were replaced with a Pertronix ignitor. What do you mean rubbing block?

 

What fuel were you running before the 89 octane. That could be your pinging problem you should definitely go to the 91 octane which still isn't a high enough octane in my opinion.

Bob H.

 

I mostly use Chevron and sometimes Shell gasoline. I usually use super unleaded which is 91 octane here in California but this last time decided to try 89.

 

Snucks,,,, the rubbing block is the part that rubs against the distributor cam.... and makes the points open and close....

 

One of my first changes on my Electra was to install a later big cap HEI unit along with the matching plugs and wires. I never cared for the retrofit kits since alot of people have had issues with them over the years and they all come down to mixing and matching components which just adds layers of potential issues.

If you keep that ignition system than you need to switch out the plugs and wires. It only takes a few minutes. Then swap out the cap/rotor/points and all that other stuff to make sure it's working right on that end. Then you have to test the module thingy to make sure it's firing right. Then replace the coil with the correct one for that system. Also make sure all the wiring is good and not showing any discoloration or fraying, especially at the connectors.

 

back in the day,,, I ran a capacitive discharge system triggered by the stock points.... it was simple , and reliable,,, i used stock delco points, no condenser, and the c/d box.... it made the points/plugs/wires last 50,000 miles before even beginning to need replacement....and would keep firing all the way thru the rpm ranges..... back then the whole set up was less than 60 bucks.....

 

Made up and installed some Taylor thunder volt 8.2 wires and installed the flame thrower coil. As soon as I started it boom it picked up about 150 rpm at idle. The low to mid range response is noticeably better and I have no doubt that the efficiency is going to go up fairly significantly. The idle is smoother but out of the passenger side exhaust there is a bit of an occasional hiccup still there you can hear it in the video below. That side had an exhaust leak for god knows how long that I corrected but maybe it caused this hiccup? Power is better but it still does not pull like it should at full throttle. I am thinking vacuum leak or a fuel flow issue, The pump could be wonky or there is a leak somewhere or even the pre filter sock in the gas tank is full of gunk. The power kinda surges on n off on full throttle.

[video=youtube;ioo5GBe1Mjo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioo5GBe1Mjo&feature=plcp[/video]

 

vacuum is much steadier after tonights efforts. The needle was bouncing around a lot more before.

[video=youtube;4BP6MC74FDk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BP6MC74FDk&feature=plcp[/video]

 

Replaced all eight spark plugs. Three of them came out like this.

 

re adjusted idle mixture on carb after replacing plugs and now it runs like this. btw AC was on full blast during this test. No pinging at all on Chevron 89 octane I think I could probably bump the timing a degree or two for 91 octane, gas mileage is now up around 15 mpg.[video=youtube;weK2Zl5TR6k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weK2Zl5TR6k&feature=plcp[/video]

 

Sweet, I knew there had to be a lot more in it!! It looks like it pulls a lot harder too.

So......... What do you think about Buick Big Blocks now?

15 mpg,is that highway,or city driving? And if you think thats good,if you change to an overdrive,it'll do a lot better. I would recommend a 700R4 with an adapter,that way you won't have to change the rear gear,and you'll have a much better 1st gear multiplication ratio.

 

Hey,,, Jason,,, I went to school on Autolite plugs and can tell you from first hand experience that they will fire at 20 psi higher than any other brand out there... and compression pressure is what makes a plug ''break down'' and not fire....
and when they are made , they are made to, at the very least, the highest standard of what ever manufacturer that built the car they are going in specifies.... Ie, better than GM specs, better than Chrysler specs, ect.... and better materials go into them.... aint preaching , guy, just passing along info....:grin::grin: we all brought our favorite plug , new in the box, and

ford screwed in one of their autolites, gapped to specs, and had us do the same, and the autolite beat every one of the ones we brought.... saw that , experienced that.... first hand..... :Brow:

 

The usual cause is that a person spun them out with a normal socket when they should have used a spark-plug socket; the sort with a cushy foam/rubber insert inside. They brutalized the plug by pushing sideways on the ratchet to break the plug loose. Gotta support the ratchet head so side-loading is controlled. The foam/rubber insert helps keep the ratchet/extension in-line--but if the ratchet gets pushed too far sideways, the plugs will still break.