Just bought a 70 skylark! But.....?

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by Drebeast1992, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    How do you know that a distributor is going to fix it? :Do No: Before you throw another part in the car, why don't you figure out what is actually wrong? Now only will you learn the ins and outs of the GM HEI you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you fixed it. Plus you might even save some money. Do you have a digital volt ohm meter? Here is a quick diagnostic I found off the internet-

    1. With the ignition on, connect a voltmeter (or test light) to the + post or HEI BAT terminal located on the distributor cap.
    +12 volts or Test LIGHT ON: Go to step 3.
    No voltage or Test LIGHT OFF: Go to step 2.

    2. Check for continuity or voltage drop in the ignition switch and in the circuit from the switch to HEI BAT terminal. Fix missing +12 volt problem.
    STARTS: Stopyouve found the problem.
    NO START: Go to step 3.

    3. Remove a spark plug wire and insert a HEI spark tester ($2.99 from Harbor Freight) in line. Crank the engine and observe the light in the tester.
    3a. Alternatively remove a spark plug wire and insert a metallic extension in the end of the wire. Using insulated pliers, hold the spark plug wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine block while cranking the engine. If you use the alternate method be very careful to hold the wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine. Greater distances can cause damage to the ignition module.

    LIGHT FLASH IN TESTER or SPARK JUMP TO ENGINE BLOCK: The problem is not the ignition system. Check the fuel system, spark plugs, timing, and internal engine condition.
    No light or NO SPARK: Go to step 4.

    4. Remove and inspect the distributor cap for cracks and carbon-tracking. Visually inspect the distributor mechanism for moisture, corrosion, or burns. Repair as needed.
    STARTS: Stopyouve fixed it.
    NO START: Go to step 5.

    5. Set an ohmmeter to the low scale. Connect the leads across the HEIs BAT and TACH terminals.

    ABOVE 1 OHM: Replace coil. If vehicle still doesnt start, go to step 6.
    0-1 OHM: Go to step 6.

    6. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the BAT terminal and the other lead to the coil contact in the inside-center of the cap. Switch the first lead to the TACH terminal and recheck.
    EITHER TEST READS 6K to 30K: Coil is OK. Go to Step 11.
    BOTH TESTS READ INFINITY: Replace the coil. If the engine still wont start, go to step 7.

    7. Remove the green and white leads from the HEI control module. Connect the ohmmeter from ground to either lead.
    INFINITE reading: Go to step 8.
    LESS THAN INFINITY: Replace the pickup coil. If the engine still wont start, replace the module.

    8. Connect the ohmmeter across the green and white pick up coil leads.
    READS 500-1,500 OHMS: Repeat Steps 7 and 8 while moving the vacuum advance with a screwdriver. If reading is still OK, replace the module.
    DOES NOT READ 500-1,500 OHMS: Replace pickup coil. If the engine still doesnt start, replace the module.

    That is it. You will notice that there is really no diagnosis of the module. When everything else reads correct the module is replaced by defa
     
  2. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    It should--the Electra 350 that year was a Buick engine, but be careful...as parts and the cars they fit age the suppliers rely on secondhand cross referenced transcribed info and ad a result things get 'lost in translation'. Also, GM had hundreds of different specs (centrifugal advance, vacuum advance ) that varied almost as much as paint colors. They did that for a reason, and a lot of aftermarket parts are sorta close at best. Plus, you're indicting parts and throwing money at it when you may just have a loose wire or some other sub ten dollar problem. Do you have a timing light? Put that on it and pull the trigger (and look at the lighty end) when you're cranking it--that'll at least tell you if there's spark (it sounds like you may not on a consistent basis). You probably have a very simple malfunction, but every part you swap that's not 'known good', i.e. it worked five minutes ago on another car, introduces another variable. Even known good stuff has the potential error of wrong install lurking about. Nowdays many parts store parts can not be considered known good, and ignore the damned warranty crap--see 'Tommy Boy' for the best explanation of Lifetime Warranty. Also, get rid of that glass fuel filter; you'll burn it to the ground if you don't.
    And welcome!! Patrick

    Edit: Jason and I must have been typing at the same time. I agree with him--almost all the old GM stuff is well made and very serviceable--learn how to diagnose and fix the failure. Your wallet and your psyche will thank you.
     
  3. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    Man I wish you guys lived here in San Antonio I would gladly pay for some help with this! Well I have no meter but I'm going to borrow one from work tomorrow. I do Wireline in the oil field so we have some blasters meters and flukes. I opened up my distributor to have a look inside and get familiar with the parts you stated to check and to be honest I just decided to get the new one any way. There's a lot of corrosion and some rust in there so I wanna put a new one especially since I plan on daily driving this once it gets running. But before I get a buddy of mine to stab the new one I'm going to go through those checks just to see what's going on in there.
     
  4. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    By the way it's a Delco remy distributor? Any one familiar with this brand?
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Delco Remy is factory GM. Its a factory distributor that's been rebuilt
     
  6. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    Ah I see

     
  7. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Jason's chart is spot on. it should be noted that if the tach wire is shorted to ground it will kill spark as well. if you don't have a tach don't worry about it. a lot of times when a tach is added, the wire is run poorly and it rubs through. so i usually unplug that wire first, if equipped.
     
  8. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    Never thought of that. It has an aftermarket tach. Wire seems to be run well but I'll follow it all the way through. It should only be like one wire for the tach right?


     
  9. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    just unplug it at the distributor. if it runs, plug it back in and see if it stalls.
     
  10. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    So step 8 failed for me and 7, got the wrong size distributor from autozone (gear too big) so ordered one from oreileys and will be in tomorrow. We took off the dist. And the gears looked worn so just gonna put a whole new one in. Hopefully that pick up coil and module really were the only problem. Would the pick up coil or module going bad just all the sudden shut the whole car down while driving? When it happened it was just an Instant shut down, no throttle or nothing. It didn't sputter and die it just all shut down at once.

     
  11. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    So I just wanted to give a big thanks to all you guys that gave input and helped me out! Stabbed the distributor in and she fired right up! Plugged in the tach and she cut right off lol. Gonna be rewireing that tach this weekend. Got it running good but now it seems I've got an exhaust leak from the back of the driver side valve cover. Just ordered new ones. What do you guys think is best, cork or rubber?
     
  12. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Exhaust will not leak out of valve covers. Oil would. I prefer cork but don't be surprised of you still have an exhaust leak. Its likely you have an exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold. Either from the area where it mounts to the cylinder head or from where it attaches to the pipe.

    If the leak is at the cylinder head, the chances of the bolts coming our in one piece is slim to none unless its been rebuilt recently and the bolts are relatively new. Or if the engine has headers instead of manifolds.

    So , old manifolds and old bolts- your going to snap at least a few bolts on removal. And the extract what remains is going to be a monumental task. The engine will need to come out and careful extraction will need to be preformed.
     
  13. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    Well the guy before me installed long tube headers from TA performance so maybe the exhaust is leaking from there but when I looked in the engine it's seem to be coming out from the back of the valve covers torwards the firewall


     
  14. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    That makes matters easier!

    It may seem like its leaking exhaust from the valve covers, but its not. You have a bad header gasket. You'll have to raise that side of the engine up a bit to get to it. Its a miserable job
     
  15. rtanner

    rtanner Well-Known Member

    I live a few hours from san Antonio, if you want to bring car up to my house, we will fix it very quickly, no charge, text me if interested, Ronnie 903-390-6048
    Plus can teach you all the basics of diagnosis while your there, and you can get a list of essential car guy tools you have to have
     
  16. Mr. Sunset

    Mr. Sunset Platinum Level Contributor

    Thats the best offer your going to find and well worth the drive. Don't be shy.I met a very good friend on this board. The module will kill the motor with no notice. freeway, left hand turn lane. it's like they know when to kill the engine. up hill left hand turn land with 5 cars behind you. lol take the offer.
     
  17. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Yes, met a good friend here 5 years ago, who offered free help to me as well. I'll second the " take em up on the offer", you could get your car squared away, learn a few things, and make a Buick friend in the process.....Jim

    Tapatalk User
     
  18. Drebeast1992

    Drebeast1992 Active Member

    Well car is car is running now! Been driving it to work past couple of days! Thanks though! I will save your number cause maybe we can still meet up and you could show me some basics and recommend some upgrades.





     

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