I use the HR-4 10W/30 Synthetic in my engine. That is what JW recommended. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/racing-oil-101/
Also look at there Hot Rod Driven Hot Rod High Performance Conventional Oils http://www.jegs.com/p/Driven-Racing...erformance-Conventional-Oils/1503690/10002/-1 I am not a synthetic fan it always seems to cause leaks and weeping. There Conventional Oils are of very high quality with a great additive package.
Great oil. My brother in law races rounds rounds and swears by it. Picked up 9 horse on the dyno over royal purple. It's high zinc value as well. I'm using thw 15w 50 synthetic in my car now.
Just wonder how people run the 20W50 without wearing out distributor gears right and left. I've always run10w30 and TA bronze gears only last about a year of racing. Jim N.
My bronze gear is probably 5 years old and still looks great. Not sure what would cause it to wear out so quickly. I typically run 15 w50, but I would think a thicker oil wouldn't break down as quickly as a thinner oil and may stay on the gear better.
Driving it with out building oil temp. People see the coolant temp up but don't think about the oil temps still being cold is one of a few reason's. If you notice, Joe Gibbs oil is rated by bearing clearance as it all should be.
Well, my engine spends most of it's time at 6,000 rpm. Every time I take one out it is worn. Not worn out completly but enough I don't want to chance it another year. Same thing in 4 different engines over the last 20 years. Jim N.
Well, my car can only heat the oil so much before each run. Also spends most of it's time at 6,000 or so rpm. Jim N.
Gear material matters on roller cams etc but if you are having problems there is a reason for it? Install a oil line to lube the gears. TA recommends a oil feed line when using there roller cams now. Typically you see it with hi volume pumps and cold thick oil.
We've run XP1 in our stock cars (road course racing) for years. It's excellent oil. Very expensive though. We just switched over to Amsoil to save some $$. (an oil change for us is $250+ due to the dry sump capacity). So far so good on the Amsoil. We've noticed that the Amsoil might break down less quickly, hard to say for sure though. I do not bother running XP1 in my Buick motor, it doesn't see 8500 RPM for an hour like the stock cars. but good oil can never hurt!
Dan, The hi volume pump has 1/4" longer gears. If that is the pump you have, and you run 20W/50, I'm sure you are careful when the oil is cold. It can be done if you exercise due caution.
I have Joe Gibbs 10W40 brake in oil for now. Shortly I will be changing it out to Joe Gibbs 10W40 Hot Rod oil and then after around 1500 miles I will go to a synthetic oil. I have roller lifters.
