It Always Seems To Be The Brake Lights and Turn Signal...

Thats The Hub,if All The Screws Are Rmeoved Then You Should Be Able To Pry That Piece Off ,the Lock And Plate Are Under That Hub!!then You Need To Use The Plate Remover

 

The Tool You Need Looks Like A U With A Bolt Going Through The Center,it Screws To The Main Shaft Then You Tighten It And It Pushes Down On The Lock Plate

 

Tight as in the tilt? Yes, or rather firm. It feels like it's brand new, or how I think it would. It's not loose and there's no play.

 

Alright fellas, I have an update. The switch is installed. I bought the schematics a while back and narrowed it down to that, because the lights have all been replaced, and I looked through the fuses and they look in tact (is that an ok method of checking them?). Could this whole problem stem from one bad fuse? After all that the only thing I can think of is a bad ground or a short in the wire. What else can you think of? I'm really sorry for all the elementary questions, and for bothering you folks, I'm just stumped and with it being my daily driver I'm trying to hurry . Thanks guys.

 

Yes sir, I still have the same problem. I have a test light and I will test it tomorrow, because quitting time was a little bit ago. I have a paper to work on tonight, but I'll let you know tomorrow asap. But I still don't have an answer to the question-could one bad fuse could cause all this?

 

No offense Jason, but I think the reverse lights are the least of my problems. I'd prefer to figure out to brakes at least so I can legally drive again.

 

If Non Of The Lights Are Working In The Back Of The Car,brake,directional And Back Up Lights,i Would Check The Connection At The Body.the Rear Harness Plugs Into A Connector In The Body Under The Bumper,its On The Drivers Side,you Might Need To Loosen The Bumper To Gain Access To It,i Have Small Hands So Iwas Able To Get My Hand Under There And Push In On It.

 

If That Doesnt Work Then Its Time To Break Out The Test Light And Start Testing Each Circuit(backup,directional And Brakes)each Is Controlled By A Switch,back Up Like Jason Said Is Controlled By The Nuetral Saftey Switch Located At The Bottom Of The Column,brake Lights Switch Is Located Rear Of The Brake Pedal,it Has A Two Wire Connector And A Plunger Which Completes The Circuit When You Depress The Brake Pedal,turn Signals Are Controlled By The Switch You Replaced.the Chassis Service Manual Has A Complete Electrical Schematic,if You Cant Get One I May Be Able To Scan And Send To You

 

Ok guys thanks. And just to refresh: the regular tail lights work, but the brake lights, directional (front and rear), and the reverse lights don't work. Hopefully I'll have some useful news tomorrow. Thanks for the help fellas.

 

No Prob,i Would Start With The Back Up Lights,its A Single Lt Green Wire That Comes Off The Nuetral Saftey Switch,turn The Key On,put The Car In Reverse,see If You Have Power At The Green Wire Connector If Yes Then Trace That Wire,theres Two Connections Before It Gets To The Lights Themselves. Keep Checking For Power At Each Connection Right Up To The Bulb Sockets Themselves

 

Would a bad license plate light cause all this mayhem??

 

No Its In The Same Circuit,but Woundnt Cause The Failure,did You Check The Back Up Circuit?did You Check The Body Plug In Under The Bumper?ALSO CHECK YOUR GROUNDS!!!

 

The body plug? I'm not familiar what it is supposed to be like. I'll check my schematics. I'm sorry for the illiteracy, I feel like an idiot asking these questions.

 

I don't have a dvom but I do have a test light.

UPDATE: I just did a quick look over of the fuse box and where the brake light/directional light fuse goes the two top prongs are missing. I am 99.9% sure this is cause the problem by not having a good connection. I took a wire and tried to connect two spots and I would see sparks and hear clicks. The contacts look pretty corroded too. I am trying to jerry rig something to make the fuse fit in the mean time then I want to buy a new fuse box. The thing looks pretty jerry rigged to begin with. What do you guys think?

Man I feel like a moron.

 

So Whats Holding The Fuse From Just Falling Out Of The Fuse Block?also I Dont Know If Anyone Just Sells The Fuse Block Itself.can You Get The Fuse To Stay In There Just Long Enough For Someone To Verify That Thats The Cause Of The Problem.also The Stop Lights Are On A Different Fuse,hows That One?missing Any Tabs Or Blown?