As I'm working at installing the new TA frame pads to shift my engine back a little bit, I wonder. Should I leave the bolts to the pads loose, and after mounting the engine, then tighten them down? I guess I'm not sure if misalignment is an issue. Thanks
Right or wrong I tightened mine down. It's slightly off but a little tap tap and the bolts go right thru the motor mounts. Your results may vary. It's VERY hard to get to the bolts once the lower control arms are installed.
You misspelled it is a total bitch when the lower control arms are installed, but yeah. At least I have it up in the air.
We are both understating the difficulty of getting to those bolts. My ultimate plan is to weld them on with nickle rod.
I left mine threaded a few threads so I had wiggle out of both of the frame pads so I could finagle the motor mount bolts into the frame pads. One caveat though is that I only have the upper control arms on. The lowers, shocks, & springs are off until my disc brake conversion arrives. It makes it a lot easier to access the bolts. The one that gave me some fits was the driver side front by the fuel lines. Kyle
Ok, so on my cross frame, there are 2 sets of holes. I bought the TA frame pads and mounted them in the far rear position, but upon attempting to install the block and transmission, I am running into the firewall with some large tangs on the side of the transmission. Are there tunnel clearance issues when installing a TH400 in a 67 skylark? Or do I just need to keep adjusting the mounts and holes until things fit? PS, are the motor mounts even with each other or offset a little bit?
They are offset,..post a pic,..the BB sits pretty close to the firewall in that chassis,.but you shouldn't be hitting the firewall
http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/conversi.htm "The white arrows indicate mounting holes for 350 frame mounts."
My frame cross member has double holes where each of those white arrows are. I think somebody must have drilled extra holes in there on this car at one time. The 67 mounts are considerable different than what the 68 looks like in those photos.
took 3 hours to install in my 70. Electric tape in swivel socket w additional swivels. Lol. Fully assembled front end. Engine fit in easy. Until i Had to install headers and massage tubes 1,3 To clear crossmember top and backside. No problem since.
Swivel is key. Electric tape is a good idea to keep the bolt in the socket. I usually use a little bit of duct seal in mine, then jam the bolt into the socket. You can guide the bolt into the hole with your finger through the holes in the side of the rail. It's 100 times easier with the lower control arm removed.
I've been looking for an easier way to install the big block pads. I was able to put 2 out of 3 bolts on, I'm just glad to hear you did it the same way I'm doing it and that is possible without taking the lower control arm off.
