Installing drip rail moldings .

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by rex362, Jun 19, 2017.

  1. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Lots of info on taking them off but not how to install :)


    Had a new repo set from years ago .....mangled em up on the quarter bend.
    Then found out from more research that paint/clear build up there easily , should
    be sanded down so did that .

    So whats the trick/procedure when installing at the quarter bend and are all repo's the same or should I look for
    used original clean set for easier fitting ???
     
  2. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    I fought and cursed the L side 8 hours over several days until I came up with a method that worked. The R sid took under 30 mins. I was working on a Riv with Vinyl top which has to go under the drip rail. Starting on the very back near the 1/4 Glass, I ended up taking a 12" long block of very soft wood laid over the stainless after the upper lip was over the top edge and gave it a good smack with a rubber mallet until it snapped under the bottom. Then lightly tapped the top edge to get it seated fully. Once I worked it that way completely through the 1/4 the straight parts of the roof went easy. I read and re read the body manual. It showed pictures and cut aways of how it was supposed to be installed but no direction on how to do it.
     
    rex362 likes this.
  3. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    thats what worries me ......I lose control with them darn hammers :D and need to find some balsa wood .
    Maybe I should order 2 sets just in case
     
  4. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It's not terrible. Work it from the quarter bend out...listen to Briz's advice. I had the vinyl top on mine too...and it was a chore but manageable.
     
  5. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Just ordered another set....this time from TPP...they brag the have the most correct ,I will be embarrassed if I mangle try #2 and to reorder another set from them...:D

    Maybe do a shot and a few beers beforehand :p to calm the nerves down
     
  6. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    So, I'm hearing start at the rear and work towards the front of the car, clip the bottom in good then snap/pop/hammer carefully the top working towards windshield, front?
    Jim
     
  7. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    I start at the rear and with the upper lip going over the pinch weld then hinge the trim under the bottom. You can almost push it by hand far enough to clip but not quite. Thats where the soft wood and mallet come into play. Try to tap on the lower 90* part of the molding and not the flat part facing out. You want to drive the under side in not mash the face flat.
     
    rex362 likes this.
  8. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Ty, Steve for clarifying that....any tips at all are appeciated...Jim/Rott
     
  9. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Well the ttp drip rails were installed and went on easy at the quarter turn ..too easy and very loose in some areas. ..even the one on the pillar is loose ....

    and very extra sharp at the edges .


    And the tail end on the quarter bend is way to long maybe close to 1/2 inch to long...Don't look right

    So the tpp ones are cheap crap unless you glue em on and cut the tail end off and reshape
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2017
  10. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    Most stainless reproduction is crap. Find a used set you

    will be much happier even if you have to have them polished
     
  11. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    yep ..seems it will go that route ....have one more repo set I ordered on its way ,made by Goodmark
    see how they fit and then we hit the used section up
     
  12. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    Most aftermarket parts are really made by one manufacture and separated by quality control to whom it is sold to.
     

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