I'm sorta ripshit about a petty thing. It's all painted now and I will touch it up later. I was taking a photo and my phone died. I then finally took a break and ate food for the first time in 20 hours. Funnily enough, the thing that stopped me last night at about 1:30 was the oil pan. I was cleaning it and brought out the propane torch to "motivate" the remaining pan gasket to leave. I ended up sending a fireball into the air (from brakekleen in the pan I had forgotten about) and set a nearby rag soaked in brakekleen on fire and man did it burn strong. It appears the only way I stop working is the moment I do the dumbest things. Could be worse though. I almost tipped the engine over....
I didn't know building engines could make people smile ear to ear.. Briz, thank you for the stickers! In love with the look
Thank you! Also, when priming the oil pump, should it fight back at you and try to turn the other way once pressure is built up?
If you are using a battery drill or low torque drill you may find it slows down. Can you pull the valve covers and verify you are getting oil to the rockers on both sides? And an oil pressure gauge to see that you get correct pressure is a very good idea. And it is turning clockwise looking down at the drill.
It definitely slows down. When I've built up a lot of pressure and release the drill, the pump spins independently about a half a revolution per second. I assumed I was getting oil to the rockers based on the pressure. When would I not be getting oil to the rockers? What would have been rebuilt incorrectly?
I think youll be OK on the top end, but if you want to verify, after the fill-up on the oil, and some time to run off the heads, run the pump and peak inside the filler hole especially when spinning the unit. It should look noticeably wetter after a few minutes. The darker oil is residual from a non complete overhaul. Notice the pin holes on the 455 rockers with hollow push rods. The chrome valve cover spreader bars compliment the factory method of sealing the covers. Crack auto for $5.00 (looks Stage 1-ish) . Trim those wires and use factory wire clamps on the VC studs. I agree on the gage. With two people, run the pump, and roll the crank a few turns (pull the plugs first) and watch the gage. Pressure should remain constant. Id actually mount the starter motor and do it as a pre-start run in anyway. Its easier to mount now as well. Check the pinion engagement etc. As a word to the wise; Id also change the front trans seal while the motor is out. $5.00 now is money well spent later! Priming mine, I used a 5/8 inch 1/2 horse drill motor, and yes, there is quite a resistance, especially if the oil/block is cold from sitting in a cold shop overnight. ws
Ok I'm still doing the same bull after 4 hours. It's nearly impossible to line up those damn dowels. Any advice before I spray paint it Chevy orange and sell it to some loon as a 400 SBC?
As yachtsmanbill stated earlier. Get either 2-4 long grade 8 bolts (or studs), cut off the heads and use them to help mate/guide the transmission/engine into position. If you use two, or even one st, it will allow you to angle a bit. If you are working alone, you may go "back and forth" from the engine to underneath to guide things along, but I do a lot of my stuff by myself and use blocks of wood, straps and things to hold parts in place as I work them in.
Ya hafta think like an Egyptian, or those Injuns from Easter Island. Then theres Stoned Hedge. My neighbor had me help push his 1980 GMC dually into the drive so he didnt have to change his flex plate with a baddd ring gear on the street. The next day I see him driving it. I asked him about the flexplate and he "Sure... Changed it yesterday" like that was nothin'! That was outside at 35F in the rain. He used 2 four inch long bolts as well. Cut the heads off, and smear a film of grease on them. I dont recommend studs; its like sliding across a file. Even grind a starting taper on them. Even choklit bolts are OK for this job... Once onto the dowels, start the bolts and EVENLY draw it up against the block. Practice the French and be careful! Didja clean and tap the holes for the bell housing to block? I know you inspected the freeze plugs along the block and behind the flexplate too right? Make sure the torque converter is seated ALL THE WAY BACK and engaged before lifting and forcing it into position. The pump, stator and outer shell splines ALL need to be engaged proppa. You can tie a coat hanger across the face so it doesnt slide forward. Remove it before you get too far onto the dowels. ws
