Ignition issues

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by 64skylarkAu, Aug 17, 2020.

  1. 64skylarkAu

    64skylarkAu Member

    have a 64 skylark with a 300 engine that keeps blowing condensers. 600miles = 3 so far. So fgar have replaced ballast resistor, coil, points twice and wiring from ignition switch. Im wondering if its an alternator issue as i upgraded the stock alt to 150amp that's outputting 14.1 v. Coil side of ballast records 10.3 when cold and drops to 9.8 when hot.

    Any input on this would be great as im confused as to why it keeps killing condenser's

    It will go to electronic once the bits arrive which have been sitting in USA for 5 weeks waiting shipping.
     
  2. Daryl

    Daryl Member

    Is it a no start when it goes out?
     
  3. 64skylarkAu

    64skylarkAu Member

    yes no start, typically driving along fine starts to miss then stalls and cant restart. Replace condenser and away it goes again. Points look fine and dont need to be replaced. Have replaced them twice but not really needed. I have now changed the coil which when hot is putting out 8.8v so see if thats any better.
     
  4. Buick

    Buick Ramin Ansari

    Points gap and dwell in spec?

    I have heard some new points have a coating on them that may need to be cleaned or filed. Since you have an extra set, maybe worth a shot.

    Have you checked wiring, voltages, etc.? I used to know a lot and forgotten most and would have to look stuff up to help you out more...I probably need to pull out an old service or Chilton’s manual.
     
  5. 64skylarkAu

    64skylarkAu Member

    yep gaps good dwell is good. Cleaned the points with a fine piece of wet and dry before installing. Points arnt burnt. Wiring all replaced im assuming its the alternator at 14.1 v to high even with a ballast resister. Changed to a new coil hopefully that will help as output is lower then the original one that was in the car.
     
  6. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    I assume you or someone else removed the original factory resistor wire that feeds the coil? If it's still there you don't need a ballast resistor too. Also, make sure you're coil is compatible with a resistor wire/ballast resistor.
     
  7. 64skylarkAu

    64skylarkAu Member

    yes original wiring loom is gone, was to badly corroded to use thus why i have a ballast resistor in its place. Unsure whats wrong now but it refuses to start now, has spark fuel new points condenser. So no idea. Has to go in for panel repair Monday since someone backed into it. Just need to get it running again for them. Hopefully electronic unit arrive by the time its finished..
     
  8. 64skylarkAu

    64skylarkAu Member

    update Coil had failed but was still putting out a spark just a bit weak, plus the new points i put in were bending and arcing backwards causing it not to fire properly... hopefully all fixed till pertronix arrives.
     

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