Hey guys, I asked this question in Sparky's corner and got a good amount of response, but it was mostly from guys with 455s. I switched my ignition to a pertronix 1 and haven't been able to find the resistor wire. I found the pink and yellow wire in the firewall harness connector and replaced the pink wire to the ignition coil but am still not getting more than 7 volts. I need 12 volts for the coil to spark properly. Am I overlooking a wire somewhere? Maybe under the dash? From the ignition switch I found the brown hot wire for the ignition on and the grey wire also, but there is a cloth wrapped wire connected in with it as well. Any tips would be great. If I can not solve this I'll switch back to the points and live with it for a while. Thanks Bob
The resistor wire is built into the harness--it is that cloth covered wire you referred to that is burried in the harness and connected to a normal wire that emerges from the harness and connects to the ignition switch. If you want 12v at the distributor for the pertronix, you have to run a separate wire from the ignition terminal on the switch out to the dist. Any time you run through that resistance wire, the voltage will drop down to the 7-9 volts range. On a Pertronix, you are still supposed to connect the coil to the resistance wire--as in just leave the wire coming out of the harness connected to the coil like it was stock, connect the black wire from the Pertronix in the dist. to the neg. side of the coil, and connect the red wire from the Pertronix straight to the ignition terminal on the ignition switch.
On my 64 Rivi, the resistor wire is under the dash, running from the ignition switch to the firewall bulkhead connector.
Painful Wiring Thanks for the quick help, I'm going to try to get it fixed tomorrow or thursday. I'll keep you updated. Also on another note, the car has a Carter AFB and I think the secondaries aren't working. It almost looks like rust inside the secondaries on the base. Should I get it rebuilt or would it be better for economy and performance to upgrade to an Edelbrock AFB 750? I have also seen alot of talk about the Quadrajets. Any suggestions on either would be great. Thanks Bob
I think you'll find that many will agree that you can't go past a properly built (and adjusted) 800cfm Quadrajet for the street.
You'll need a 66 425 QJet intake manifold to run a QJet. It's a squarebore (AFB) vs spreadbore (QJet) thing. Bill put up some great pics in another thread here about carbs. The bigger AFBs fit though. Why not use the 800 cfm Edelbrock AFB if you're going to go BIG? On your AFB you've got now, there's an air valve right under the back ventruiis, check that it is free to move. When I bought my Rivi, the carb was gummed up from sitting and having gas evaporate out of the carb. This secondary air valve area was all gummed up too. Using three hands, you should be able to open the throttle plate on the base of the carb with the throttle linkage, stick a screwdriver past the secondary venturiis and open the air valve, and look thru the carb into the intake with a flashlight. If you can do that, the secondaries are 'working'.
wire connectors Well, I started work on the wires and found the resistor wire beneath the dash. it connects up as you said. from there, to I just add a wire to that and run it to the coil, or fo I remove the resistor wire and replace it. If I have to do that, will I have to remove the resistor wire from the fuse block as well? Also, does anyone have any extra wire connectors for the engine side of the harness connector? It looks like I will have to replace the connector that runs to the starter and coil, I mangled it a bit taking it out :ball: Other than that, I thinnk it should be alright if I can get the connectors and then just clean it all up, with the proper wires going to the right places. Thaks again, Bob
I'm doing the same thing on my '64, I've bought all the parts but have been waiting for the return of warmer weather before tearing into everything. The resistor wire at the key switch connector will push out of the connector housing. I am assuming that I can similarly push the pin out of the connector housings at the bulkhead connectors. I plan to leave the the resistor wire in place in the under-dash harness (in case the Pertronix craps and I put the points back in). I plan to leave the starter to coil wire in the harness (for the same reason). I plan to run new 12 awg wire from the key switch to the bulkhead conectors, and on to the coil. The correct crimp terminals for GM wiring harnesses are available from 'quality' auto parts sores such as PartsPlus and NAPA. AutoZone and Checker/Schucks/Kragen DO NOT carry the correct terminals for GM wiring harnesses, or for anybody else's wiring harnesses!!! Let's see - what else - the wire from starter to coil gives you full 12 - 14 vdc during starting.
jump the resistor wire Why not just install a jumper wire from before the inline resistor to right after the resistor wire? Then you can ust the stock wireing for the Pertronics and if you go back to points just clip the jumper. Brian
Tired of wiring Still having some setbacks. I looked at the local napa store and the only wire connectors they have are for the 455 engines and harness connectors. Is there anyone who has a part number list that may have the number? If not does anyone have a stockpile of connectors that would be willing to spare a few for me? Beyond that I'm not sure how to get all this fixed up other than soldering all the wires in to keep them all connected permanently. Also, I'm going to install a cd player and speakers in the car, 6x9s in the back and I'm going to try the dual speaker setup in the dash that I've seen posted a few times. I believe I can just use the old wires that hooked up to the factory radio and just run new wires to the speakers. Will I need to upgrade to a better alternator? I am planning on getting an amp for the 6x9s and eventually fixing the air conditioning system(its missing a few connections/parts I haven't figured out which yet). Thanks again Bob
Back to Points Well, I threw back on the points and she ran like a charm. Three hours to Milwaukee and no ignition hiccups at all. There is another problem now,uzzled: The ball joints are shot. 45 bucks a pop, but I would like to upgrade the entire front end rubber with poly, or something that will give me a bit better perf. than the old rubber. I have looked around and I haven't found anyone who has a kit available for a big ole 66. If Anyone knows where to look... I'm all ears. Thanks. Bob
Ahhhh, yes, yet another wonderful "PerTronix is great" story. I hear the same EVERY day. Now, as to the resistor wire, easy to bypass, and still leave the stock wire in place. Add the copper wire to the connector at the firewall bulkhead, and leave the resistor wire in place as well. Using two female single bullet connectors and one male, connect a small section of copper wire off the IGN 1 terminal of the ignition switch, and add the single male bullet connector to this wire end. Add a female bullet connector to the existing resistor wire removed from the IGN 1 term, and to the open end of the copper wire connected to it at the firewall. You will now have an IGN 1 term with a small section of copper wire and a male connector, and two wires from the same terminal on the bulkhead connector with a female connector each, resisted and full voltage. Now, just plug in the wire you wish to use, full voltage or resistor, into the male connector, no muss, no fuss, no butchering of the loom, no changing the harness in the engine compartment, and you can go back to resisted easily if need be, because it is still in place in the vehicle.
AFB Carb is OK !! :grin: I have a 65 Riviera with a 401 and Carter AFB. I have found a carb shop here in Salt Lake City that did some fantastic work for me. They charged $225 for a complete rebuild + you must have a new and very specific carb gasket for that carb to keep from frying the bottom of the AFB aluminum housing. I am very happy with the work and I am sure that they could do the same thing for you by shipping them the carb. The work was first rate! I am recommending Mike @ Carburator Specialists to everyone. (801) 568 - 3811 . I would keep the AFB. Avoid the hassel of modification of linkage to fit a different carb. Q Jets are great, but you must factor in the cost of a manifold + freight to get it there + gaskets + labor + Q jet. Rebuild the old one and have something unique. Call me for a personal reference on Card Specialists Doug Snow (801) 253 - 2028 anytime.
