If I had a head/head gasket issue, how long till overheat?

I also looked at the front of the clutch, the center thermo thingy is caked with wet greasy dirt, I'd think the silicon has long since leaked out.

 

Well I think the new clutch fan did the trick. First of all I must have out a 190 t-stat in it as that is where it sits at max cooling, maybe a few less when driving down the HWY. Did about 45 min of driving tonight. HWY side streets, HWY. Once I got off the HWY it was not over heating. It would run up to about 200 at a short light, about 202 or so at a longer light. It was about 80 degree outside. I ran into the store after having driving for most of the drive time, idled about 4 min and only got to 204 or so. Right back down to 190 once I was moving. When I got home which involves stopping, turning around and maneuvering backwards into the garage, this usually had it run up to 220 or more. Tonight it got to about 200-202.
The fan was putting off a good air flow when I first started it. Very good.
I feel I have my issue fixed finally.

 

Have replaced the fan clutch 3 times in the 10 years I've owned the car. Each time I notice a difference

 

Wow 3 times. I bought a Acdelco unit (prob made in china) in hopes it will last a bit. 3 in 10 years seems like a lot.

 

That's one reason that I prefer electric fans. You know right away if they're not working.

 

Yea I was thinking maybe that is the way to go in the future. Can't be that hard to install?

 

I think that a lot of people may be having overheating problems when using replacement fan clutches. The only vehicle that I have with a clutch fan is my 86 Cutlass and it still functions well after 33 years. I think that if you end up getting one that was made buy a Chinese kid under the age of 8, they haven't learned to measure correctly and just guess at how much silicon to install resulting in improper coupling temperature. Actually, I believe that they just make more universal parts instead of multiple correct parts, especially on parts that haven't been used by OE manufactures for many years.

 

My concern is that the temp sensing element is so far from the radiator that the water temp needs to be very high before they engage. Mine would be at least 2 1/2 inches.

 

Temp sensing element need to be in engine before thermostat to give an accurate engine readings. Its the engine that makes heat not the radiator and the engine will be damaged by heat. So its temperature is more critical.

 

I wonder if I should move my temp sensor from my gauge back to the where the cars dummy gauge is mounted in. My car has some emissions thing I think it was that is located a little behind and to the right of the tstat housing. That is where I put my mech gauge in at. I was told that would be ok. Should I put it in where the dummy gauge location is at? I could remount the device that was in the other location.

 

Temp sender in front of intake next to the t-stat housing. (left, aft, 10 o'clock as looking from front of engine)

 

You are correct but on my car I also have a unit in the intake that is located about ONE o'clock or so to the tstat. I was told in another thread that I could use that for my mech gauge and leave my dummy light sensor in its location. If I recall the device I have my sensor in was on cars with AC.

 

I think it is called the TVS switch. I was told I could disconnect it and put my mech gauge there leaving the dummy light sensor where is was from factory.

 

may be called the TCS switch

 

I moved my temp sensor to where the dummy light sensor was and put dummy sensor in the TCS spot. Did not drive it but let it get to running temp. It read lower than I have seen before just sitting. I guess I should have put the sensor there in the first place.