I used to have two seats...

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by 12lives, Nov 15, 2018.

  1. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Now I got a pile of parts!
    IMG_0546.JPG
    The drivers bucket seat was starting to sag. The seats looked great, but every time I sat down I got shorter! Then I noticed the foam pills and dust under the seat - not good! I was afraid the seat covers would tear since they were being stretched. My buddy and I tore them down to nothing. I've never done seats and I was very glad he knew what to do - he's been doing seats for 30+ years. We saved the covers but my fears were realized as the drivers bottom cover had a pulled seam at the back. Luckily, they were Legendary covers from 2000.
    I contacted Legendary and they could make the repair. So they are off being fixed. In the meantime I am cleaning and painting the frames and springs and buying parts. I'll update as progress is made. IMG_0545.JPG
     
  2. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Some progress. My buddy likes to break down the seat frames, sandblast, and paint with rustoleum. I don't want to break down the frames and springs and don't have a sandblaster, so I'm going chemical! I wire brushed everything, coated with POR metal prep, and painted with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Not as easy as I thought... First it's too cold here so I have to work indoors. The chemicals are really potent and require a respirator. (I tried using just ventilation - no good!). The biggest issue I had was I let the POR Metal Prep dry. The residue is a white power that comes off on your finger so I assume it will not let the paint stick. I tried lacquer thinner and it did about a 75% job, but not good enough. Then it was to the bathtub and lots of scrubbing. Internet research was not clear about what to do. I called POR and they insisted that a water bath was required to neutralize the phosphoric acid in the Prep. I am going to try to remove it before it dries as that seems to be what most folks do. Big pain as it has to remain wet for 30 minutes to do it's job.
    Now you may ask why I'm converting the rust if I am using Rust Encapsulator, good question. The Encapsulator will not stick well to smooth metal and the seat frames are a mix of surface rust and clean metal, nice and shiny. So really I am etching the smooth metal to get a bite for the paint. See below:
    After the scrubbing:
    IMG_0547.JPG

    Notice the shiny metal
    IMG_0549.JPG
    Now after the treatment:
    IMG_0550.JPG
    and painted:
    IMG_0548.JPG
    Too bad Stratos did not paint these first!
     
  3. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    More progress - The seat tracks are always nasty. I soaked them in POR Cleaner/DeGreaser overnight, hosed them off good with water. They came out very clean but still rusty. Then I soaked them in Evapo-Rust. Magic! Check out the results:
    IMG_0555.JPG
     
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  4. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    The piece came back today from Legendary - looks great. That was quick! It appears they are using a heavier backing material too.
     
  5. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Another update: Degreased the release mechanism and soak in the evaporust. Thats aluminium paint on the slides, a little bright but it will be under the seat... IMG_0556.JPG IMG_0557.JPG
     
  6. Waterboy

    Waterboy Mullet Mafia since 6/20

    Keep going Bill!!! Looks like you are doing a good job!
     
  7. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    It’s amazing the depth of restoration you can do on these cars. When someone says they restored a car they need to look at your seats. Did you do this? I doubt it. Good work.
     
  8. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Word of advice. While the tracks are off get some oil like motor oil in all the moving parts of the seat tracks before you put them back on. Work them back and forth. After that get some spray white lithium into the same areas. They will run nice and smooth for the rest of your life.
     
  9. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Also if you blasted anything use air to blow out the grit first before you start the lube process.
     
  10. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Thanks Dave - I did not blast anything on the seats for that reason - grit gets everywhere! I used chemicals for the metal treatment.
     
  11. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    More cleaning and painting: IMG_0576.JPG
     
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  12. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    I think I'm done - now to put it all together. Here's some repro parts too - careful not to drool:rolleyes:...
    IMG_0578.JPG IMG_0579.JPG
    These are from CARS - notice the inset compared to the old ones - nice, but the spring is not as strong. We'll see.
    IMG_0580.JPG IMG_0581.JPG IMG_0582.JPG
    These are from Classic Industries. The track lock knob is metal w/a set screw and fits tight. Nice!
    IMG_0583.JPG IMG_0586.JPG
    And the seat back buttons. About the same weight, looks OK. Classic Ind again - says OPG though.
    IMG_0585.JPG IMG_0584.JPG
     
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  13. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Finally back to the seats:
    Replaced bottom side bolster springs IMG_20190630_111312_804.jpg IMG_20190630_113357_379.jpg
    IMG_20190630_133439_211.jpg
    Used "fake fur" instead of burlap - cheaper and lasts longer:
    IMG_20190630_114700_630.jpg IMG_20190630_120700_802.jpg IMG_20190630_163653_320.jpg IMG_20190630_164713_669.jpg
    Hog ring bottom seat covers: IMG_20190630_121421_493.jpg IMG_20190630_122335_117.jpg IMG_20190630_131326_700.jpg
     
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  14. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Bottoms done - baking in the sun to relax the wrinkles!
    IMG_20190630_144500_452.jpg
    The backs kicked our as*e*! I used the "flat" foams with no groove and tried to cut the listing wire groove and got it completely wrong. Used a new set of springs with no wire instead of the factory spring back with everything as it should be...duh! We walked away and will try again another day!
     
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  15. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Time flies when you are having fun! After a trip to the beach :cool: we got back to it. No photos today, just an update. Those listing wires are a real B**$#@!!!! Cutting the slots in the smooth seat backs made for a real challenge. My buddy has done many many chevelles, camaros, 442's, a 67 buick but never a 70-72 Buick. And, of course, I had never done one. I made a template but that does not tell you the height for the cross slot. We used the OEM springs to find the approximate height, but the aftermarket set I bought was just enough different that it was not a 1:1 comparison. After having the cover on 3 times we finally got it to an acceptable fit. Wow - kudos to you seat upholsterers! Oh, and reusing seat covers to save a few coins??? NOT a good idea. It is impossible (I think) to get the headrest holes to line up. Now I have 2 seat backs and 2 seat bottoms - let the reassembly begin! :D
     
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  16. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Ah - back in the car. No headrest because I forgot - too big a hurry! I used Year One chrome piping which I bought years ago and it is cr*p. The mylar cover came loose and is all wrinkled! Oh well, I will have to redo that! The funny thing is I now sit 4 inches higher!

    IMG_20190902_125429_190.jpg
     
    BamaWildcat and Brett Slater like this.
  17. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Same thing happened when I had mine done.

    No more sitting on the floor!
     

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