Your definitely going to need a Buick Z bar. The 68-72 small block Buicks share the same z bar as a 442. The big block Buick z bar is repro'ed. Pedals and upper clutch rod are the same.
Not to derail this thread, but, I saw a top notch GS455 4 gear at 2009 BPG guy was using the small block style of z bar fork and rod so it appears to "work" just not correct? He as parked along the edge of the GSX field opposite the big tent Brad and Kens cars was under. I argued with him a little as he claimed it was factory o No:
Jason who's that guy who repros the z-bar i forgot his name he's a buick restorer I've bought one off him in the past.
I used this setup on my 462 muncie 4 speed car for years Even used it on a 70 GS 350 car after the 72 rusted off it's frame..
I really don't see why the chevy z bar won't work? All A body z bar brackets are in the same position on the frame, the face of the bellhousing is in the same position where it mates to the block, no matter which manufacturer of engine is in it, the tapped hole in the block for the ball the z bar goes onto is in the same position(distance) from the bell housing?? I guess time will tell.
Not sure how you get a small block Z bar to physically fit and work in a big block car. I have both right here in front of me. The big block z bar is slightly shorter from the engine to the frame. But that's not the real issue. The bottom arm is longer on the BB by an inch or so. Even if you were to somehow fit the small bock arm in there, the adjuster rod would be crooked going to the fork. They're different for a reason. Even if you were able to get it to work, what would be the advantage to using a small block one in a big block anyway? Both z bars are readily available
That 350 z bar isn't like the one I have. Mine came from a 71 GS 350 car and looked more like the BB unit,but I compared it to a BB z bar and they were different
Yes Jason, I know the differences having done some extensive blue print matching, but if I didnt see it I would not have believed it. SBB setup on the BBB car....
I don't know how, and hoped someone else noticed that car. I'll look through my pics to try and find it.
The pedals would work with either a Chevelle brake pedal mount/hanger or possibly if you drilled out the Buick one. The Chevelle used a large "pin" style clutch pedal that slipped thru the pedal mount and the brake slides over the end with a clip. The Buick uses a long bolt thru both the clutch and brake. As far as the mechanical linkage goes I cannot say as I have a hydraulic setup.
For what it is worth, when I got my car it had an Oldsmobile fork and a fork rod that was probably the original grond down to a point to push the wrong fork. This is why the original pedal rod was broken and repaired I assume. Either due to the wrong parts below throwing off the geometry, or the wrong type of clutch (borg and beck)..... All I know is the journey to put the correct pieces back has been long and expensive. I still do not have the proper fork rod, but the one made out of a heim joint etc works so far.....
Figured I'd bump this thread. Are the tailshafts centered in the trans tunnel/chassis? 1970 Buick GS. Was getting ready to final cut my hole in the floor for the 4 speed floor hump and my shifter is touching the hump before it's in place. Crawled underneath and it's about a half inch towards the drivers side vs the passenger side (so if centered would probably clear). I didn't move my engine at all, just swapped transmissions and the trans mount was super easy to get in. I'm sure there's enough play that if I loosen my engine mounts and trans mount I could get it over where I need, just wanted to make sure it wasn't on purpose like those silly mopars.
As you know, the shifter rides side saddle on the trans, so its not surprising its hitting the tunnel with no hole yet. Tail shaft should be centered plus or minus. If you were able to get the cross member and the trans mount bolted in, you should be good. Honestly, I never checked to make sure the tail shaft in my car was perfectly centered. Remember, there is always some assembly line variance
Well I've got the hole cut out enough to get the recessed ridge on the inside of the floor jump in (without shifter). The shifter fits in the cut hole but when I attempt to put the floor hump over it, it still needs to slide a bit over to the passenger side but that inner hole on the floor hump contacts the shifter.
Sorry if I missed something but I thought I saw that the hydraulic throw out bearing was being used in this thread? if so no z bar required but purchase the hydraulic kit from Mcloed and purchase their pedals as well. It's a real b*#th to get the correct leverage with a stock pedal setup. Mcloed makes a pedal setup to work with their hyd kit. If you think you can use a stock pedal setup with a hyd throw out and not changing the distance between the pushrod attachment point and the pedal pivot start doing leg presses at the gym. gord
