Going to take a lot to knock off 4 tenths more than you think. Oct air might do it. Got to get that 60 ft to 1.70 for a start.
Been thinking that also, Im down to nibbling away at every tenth now, Im not going to see huge drops in ET or huge increases in MPH. 4 tenths is what, 40 hp? I know the 3.42's are holding me back, but I gotta try
Your short in 1st could be worth a tenth real easy.......after the shift is complete it could be pulling the motor down out of its power band..........try shifting 6500 in each gear.......have someone really watch and make sure you are not rolling the tires......sometime a light roll is hard to feel
Suspension, drag bags, adjustable uppers n lowers, rear sway bar. Loose the front bar or at least unbolt one side front lower arm. Take the aircleaner off. Adjustable drag shocks front and rear.....then worry about hp....JIM
^^ All those things you mention do work to make the car go faster but what do you do when sitting at a light and the cat next to you thinks he has more. It is just something I do not like to do since you do have to drive the car on the street. If I did all those those things I know my car would have hit 12.99, 25 years ago. I have big sway bars with poly bushings everywhere heavy springs and lowered with Camaro front spindles for the disc brakes and stiff shocks so the car can handle in the corners like a go-kart. My car cannot be bounced or moved when moving up and down. It is a HO racing set up and it does handle real good. I have went 13.50 and went 98 mph so I know the front end is scrubbing off power.
Good point on holding the 1 to 2 till 65oo. Can I put a mark on the rim and another on the tire to see if its slipping?
I marked mine to check. They aren't slipping on the street. Maybe slicks without beads screwed down would.
I wasn't referring to the store spinning on the rim......but I guess that could happen. Was I was referring to was the tires to the track spinning.....but not fast enough to really feel or smoke your tires.....but enough to drastically effect you short time. A slow motion video like most cell phones can do can and will show alot
Ahhh gotcha! I don't know if this is related or has any influence, with this new build on the street, I can spin the DR's without issue, a few years ago with my old build and TCI convertor traction was NOT an issue on the street with the DR's Good idea on videoing in slo mo!
Drag radials also sometimes have a hard time rebiting once they spin.......they just dont recover like slicks...... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-4022-b/year/1972/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle Some traction bars like these work very well........I had a set from south side machine that were very similar but didn't have the optional hole to drop down the lower control to different setting.......I had to modify it to do that. Summit sell the old south side bars.....the new design replace the actually bracket on the rear axle requiring exact welding but gives you 4 holes I think for more adjustability. But I ran mine deep into the 11s. And they ste very steerable with the greasable joints
well, i way i see it is you need to buy a gallon of GERITOL. half for you and half for the car. can't hurt.
Went back to 42 from work this eve. Wanted to see what leaner jetting would get me, if anything. Sunday I changed from 80/82 to 76/80 My mph went down. I tried 20 lbs in the DR's instead of my usual 18, it spun pretty good, went sideways a bit then straightened out. 60' sucked Let some air out to 18 lbs, wanted to see if my usual 60' would return, it did, but still spun a bit. I was foot braking to 1800 rpm. Im going to change my jetting back to 80/82, it felt down on power, even on the ride there it didn't seem as responsive. What I learned from this track visit, was the engine wants the fuel it had before, I wanted to see what would happen going leaner, well, I found out! Next visit will be with my 80/82 jets, see if my 101.58 returns. Then I'll try going richer. On another note, I found out this morning on the highway going to work the GS does not tolerate 39 deg, total timing, I FINALLY heard the engine rattle/ping. I retarded it back to 36 total where it was before, That's another thing I learned
You should jet to get your best mph.....not your best et. The jetting it likes on the track might not be what it likes around on the street. Every jet size is approximately 2% of fuel Are you running a power valve in this carb......if so you jet spread should be more.....6 to 8 front to back........if not you will be over jetting some holes and under others. DA will play he'll with carb tuning as well moisture in the air.......with these basic numbers making an apples to apples comparison in a tune is hard
I never had an issue before this with hooking on the track with my DR's, don't know if the track prep was lousy or what, Im learning all this and its awesome! After my first pass that I spun bad (20 lbs in DR's) first thing I thought was "gotta hook first" so I aired down to my normal 18 lbs, it was better but still spun a bit. Im going again next Wed. weather permitting, I love doing this, using/running hard the equipment I put money into, and seeing/meeting others at the track that do the same
I run my MT ET Streets at 16 psi at the track, try dropping to lower psi. DO NOT RUN ADDITIONAL TIMING UNLESS YOU INCREASE THE OCTANE OF YOUR FUEL. Mix up sum 93/110 , not so much for added performance, but for WOT peace of mind.... What carb are you using ,Mark? Jet up, not down, then when you lose performance, jet down. Ps: If you are using an afr guage , remove sensor, plug bung as leaded fuel will ruin sensor. I pull the fuse as well, mine preheats the sensor. JIM
