http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60172/10002/-1 I am thinking I can buy this adapter plate and be okay. Thoughts?
I would not try to swap the guts from one to the other.... It is basically a full rebuild, might as well just use that adapter plate. Nothing wrong with the adapter plate I have used that one before... I have one on the shelf but will keep it because I will use it again at some point I am sure.
I don't know why someone would saw the lugs off the 2004r. It's unibell. I don't see how it would create any clearance issues that would make it necessary
While I'm not recommending it, if it were mine I run it with four bolts. Then you can get the other one squared away and swap it. I think as long as you aren't racing it and launching it hard it should be ok. I would make it a habit to get under there and check the bolts regularly.
It still sounds like it could be low on fluid. You never said you verified proper fluid level. I had a 700R4 that was rebuilt, had same symptoms but not the noise. It needed 3 more quarts than I thought and it ran fine. If you want to rebuild it, it should only take cleaning it out and replacing clutches, steels. You should of course get a new cable, they are cheap.
Fluid level was about half inch above full mark after car was warmed up. I did add an extra half quart after that to see if noise went away and it remained the same. It starts once the car got to about 5 miles an hour, by 20 it was marbles in a blender loud. When I dropped the pan, there was no pieces of metal in it. I haven't decided if I want to rebuild it or not, but getting the other one for less than $200 is an okay gamble. I look at it as the cost of an education. I learn more from trial and error than I would from a classroom. It is the cost of tuition to break it and have to redo it. This time around I did fab a TV cable corrector bracket, bought a new TV cable, and put a new TCC solenoid in it to be safe. Easy things. If I were to rebuild it I figure I would drop about $1k into it. I've also thought about an 4L80e swap, but I don't have much time or space to work on it for now. I want something I can drive a few times a week reliably for now.
It could be the torque converter making the noise. I have less than $500 in my build so I'm sure you could do it for less than a grand. If you decide to go into it I'm happy to field questions. I'm no guru but I got help so I think it is only right to help others.
I did order that adapter plate. Knowing me, if I put this cheap one it and it continues to work fine, I will leave it in and let the other one sit. I rather have the extra top holes for the $50 it costs to buy the adapter. I'll find out this weekend if it was the converter as I am using the same one from the old trans on this one. Hope it's not the converter, but wouldn't surprise me with my luck.
I highly recommend against reusing the converter. Been there and done that. Its a quick way to ruin your replacement transmission. At least send it somewhere to be split and cleaned out. Same thing with trans lines and the cooler. Flush them replace them, do something because it will just reintroduce debris into your new transmission
Years ago for my LeSabre I paid to have the tranny rebuilt. Drove less than 50 miles and heard the "marbles in a can" noise that varied with the gas pedal movement. Would not accelerate well. It was a failed converter in my case. That could definitely be the problem.
In park I could rev it to 4000 without hearing any noise. It would start about 10mph and varies with speed only. The car still accelerates fine, but the marbles get louder with speed. I don't feel like putting any money into this trans. If the converter is bad, I'll probably pull it and put the TH350 back in. I think the next trans I put in will be a 4L80e. I want something to reliably handle the power as the boost goes up and the challenge of trying to get it to fit and function well. I would like to drive this car about 30% of my time this year. Last year I drove it less than 6 times (poor car).
If it makes you feel any better I was just talking on the phone with Blake who bought my old Skylark and he said the CK built 200R4 is holding up well to the Twin Turbo 350:
Does the fluid smell burned? If not- Did you ever drop the pan and take a look. i would pull the governor and inspect it. also take a look at the lever that the trans cable operates. Cheers!
I should have NEVER sold that trans!!! I replaced it with another CK trans but it cost me. What state/country is it in now?
The fluid did not smell burnt. I did drop the pan and no metal anywhere in it. I pulled the governor out and looked okay. The lever was also fine. I had made one specifically for the trans to make sure location and shifting was accurate. I got the Jeg's adapter plate in the mail yesterday. Will work on it today and post some results in the next day or two.
if the fluid smells good, no metal in the pan. there is a small filter/screen in the pump housing, its about an inch long and cone shaped. i'd check that for debris. if clean, it might be some sticky valve in the valve body. make sure the valve body bolts have not come loose. if interested find a DVD of someone rebuilding the trans. i have 2 videos of different techs rebuilding the 2004r and CK's book. it only nuts and bolts!
I got the other 2004r installed this weekend. I also made a tv corrector bracket for the quickfuel carb (1.1 stud from centerline with a 23 position from the centerline). When setting it for WOT throttle, I went under the car to verify the lever just touched off on the bushing. I also used a set of OTC gauges to verify transmission line pressures. I checked in each gear at 1000RPM with TV cable at idle and WOT position. In PDN, pressures were 75/185. In reverse pressures were 75/285. This matched the factory chart I was looking at so I decided to take it for a drive. The shift from 1-2 wasnt very noticeable and Seemed like a sliding effect. When I gave it about half throttle, the 2-3 shift RPM jumped a few hundred RPM before grabbing. As for fluid fill level, the dipstick I have is out of a 700r4. I read that the tip of the dipstick (cold level) should be even with the trans pan mount location. I cut the tube length to make the tip at this location. At temp, the fluid is in the hot range which would put the fluid level about 1 above the trans pan bolt location. Does this seem like the right level? The guy I got the trans from said there was a shift kit, but did not know what kind or what had been done to it. I am thinking about getting the CK performance shift recalibration kit B and installing it to see if it will correct the shifting problems. Thoughts? I also modified my governor according to this write up http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/200r4-mod-info.7116/
to save money i printed a picture of the bracket and made it out of aluminum. then i saw how little it really does. and took it off.
