I have four questions ! I am rebuilding my 76 mercruiser 165, my carb number is 70 43 183, when i explored the venturi cluster, my carb did not have the 'two plastic main well inserts", did all of the rochester carbs have this insert ? Was mine rebuilt poorly at some time and they were tossed out ? What symptoms would i expect if they were not there..... ? and also where can i buy the main well inserts as parts ? thanks a million. ~ Gregg
Re: How to rebuild a Rochester 2GV Carburetor - a pictoral essay... What a great job of detailing! Many, many kudos to you for taking the time and effort to do it right! I just ran across this link as I Googled for info on a particular Buick carb. I'm an old guy with a hobby of buying old Rochester's, Carter and Ford carb's on eBay, completely disassembly them, and restore them to as near as I can to a new condition. And then re-sell them on eBay. Again, Great job. Carl God's peace to you and yours!!
First- amazing post, your hard work is very appreciated! I did some research on the plastic well inserts, some Rochester 2 barrels did NOT come with them. Or you may have inherited a carb with a previous rebuild where someone removed them. They are used for improved hot-engine idle stability. I do have one other question, does anyone know if the metal shield "A metal shield is fitted around the needle seat. It is staked in place and does not need to be removed for cleaning. This shield keeps any fuel spray from the needle seat from entering the adjacent airhorn vent which could cause an overrich condition and rough running." -(from the 20th or so pane) is something that can be found online, or is it something I need to dust off my tin snips to replace? Mine was missing. And no, I did not damage or lose it, I blame the previous owner. This truck came complete with a bullet hole in the tailgate. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Amanda
What a great post! I am rebuilding carbs for a Pontiac tri-power setup and this info is worth its weight in gold. Thanks Kirk
Just performed a carb rebuild thanks to this. Much easier than anticipated. Thank you for this "How-To" it was very helpful. AND it helped me understand that the last yahoo that owned the car did not put things back correctly. Now I have to find a sping for the missing fuel filter... also replaced a missing clip and need to track down a wire mesh some day.
Fantastic! :gp: I was really worried about re-buillding the 2BBL Rochester from my boat. The instructions that come with the repair kit are pretty much useless. This article gave me the confidence to tackle the job, and get it done! Thank you very much! The only thing that (still) worries me, is the float setting. According to the instructions that came with the carb rebuild kit, I should set the float to have a 2-1/4" drop, which seems to be a deeper drop than the actual depth of the bowl! Still, it seems to work fine so far. Incidentally, (for those people that think their well-inserts are missing) there were no plastic well-inserts in my carb, and they haven't been removed/mis-placed, so Rochester did do carbs without them. Thanks again for the time and effort you put into this posting.
thanks for the thread it was a great help in getting the tripower for my gto set up right. the check balls were reversed i think this is why the guy sold it.
I am new to this forum but am in the process of rebuilding a 2GV from a 1974 350 v8. I cannot get the check ball out of the accelerator pump well. Is it simply a matter of soaking the carb body in carb cleaner as I assume the check ball is stuck from years of deposits in this well area. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The pictoral essay is invaluable to a first timer like me.
Kirk, I don't know if you're still visiting this forum or checking this thread eight years later... but if you're here, be aware that your stellar thread is STILL helping people rebuild their 2GVs. I rebuilt the one off my '65 Impala today, following your thread picture by picture on an iPad. Before today, I hadn't taken a carburetor apart since high school over 25 years ago, and even then I wasn't very good at it. Your directions made it easy, though; the car runs like a CHAMP now... I don't think I've had it running this well in the 20 years I've owned it. Thanks! --rick
Hi, very informative and easy to understand, thanks. What is the proper height for the float? Measured to what point? I think I have it too high, runs rich...
Float level won't affect idle mixture. Why do you think it runs rich? Does it burn your eyes when you're running it in the garage? If so, then you're probably running lean and have a vacuum leak somewhere.
11 years, Kirk, and your post is still helping people out! I'll be rebuilding mine this weekend and you've certainly offered a fantastic service to the community with this post. A Big Thank You to you!
