How much is it worth

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by Dale G, Nov 30, 2017.

  1. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    Thanks for the information. My numbers were 37/11 which is a 3.36 and what I thought the rear was. I have written Jim a personal message to see if he can help with the year. I actually am signed up on his website but for some reason I am currently not able to sign in.
    From everyone's help I am about to figure this rear end out. I agree with wkillgs that it is probably a 66 but I want to make sure. The date code on the axle is confusing this, if it really is a date code.
    Thanks again,
    Dale
     
  2. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    I don't have the codes for 1967, so I can't help you on that.

    '66 spring perch was FLAT with a bolted on retainer plate to hold the spring in place.
    '67 spring perch has a RAISED CENTER that the spring fits around, no retainer plate.
    You have a retainer plate, but you didn't say if the perch was flat or had the raised center. I suppose one could use the retainer plate with the raised center, but it's not necessary.

    Your date code looks like '45'. That would be the 45th day of the year, or mid February.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Here is the chart for 1965-67 axle codes.

    6567RearAxle2.jpg
     
  4. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    So this all makes sense now. I did not think of the date as a Julian date. So the partial stamp that I thought was a "D" might be a very bad "0" so the Julian date would be 054. The spring perch is flat. So with your help I think we have been able to narrow it down to a 1966 GS with 3.36 posi. Since it has the big 507G bearings and you said that they did not start until 1966 we know it can't be 1965 or earlier. It has the spring retainer and a flat perch so it can't be after 1966. It has the circle "X" for posi and the "LX" for 3.36 which was confirmed when I took the cover off. So thank you very much, I really appreciate the help.

    One last question, on the chart above what are the different categories under series? I see this rear end falls into the 44600.

    Thanks again, you guys have been great.
    Dale
     
  5. rkammer

    rkammer '71 GS455 Arctic White

    "One last question, on the chart above what are the different categories under series? I see this rear end falls into the 44600."

    446 is for a Gran Sport.
    44607 - 2 door pillar coupe
    44617 - 2 door hardtop
    44667 - convertible

    So, your LX rear had to come from a '66 Gran Sport.
     
  6. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    So does the 44600 series mean 66 and the other series mean other years, 45000 and 44000?
    Dale
     
  7. rkammer

    rkammer '71 GS455 Arctic White

    First 4 is Buick division
    Second & third digit is the series - 46 is a Gran Sport 400; 42 = Sport Wagon, 45 = Sport Wagon Custom, 33 = Special V6, 34 = Special V8, 35 = Special Deluxe V6, 36 = Special Deluxe V8, 43 = Skylark V6, 44 = Skylark V8,
    next two digits body style -
    07 2 dr. Sport Coupe Pillar Post
    17 2 dr. Sport Coupe Hardtop
    35 4 dr. 2-Seat Sta. Wagon
    37 2 dr. Hardtop Coupe
    39 4 dr. Sedan Hardtop
    55 4 dr. 2-Seat Sportwagon
    57 2 dr. Sport Coupe Hardtop
    65 4 dr. 3-Seat Sportwagon
    67 2 dr. Convertible
    69 4 dr. Sedan Pillar Post
    87 2 dr. Sport Coupe Hardtop
    The 6th digit is the second digit of the year - 6 = 1966
    The 7th digit is the manufacturing plant. (a letter)
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2017
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Here is the model chart out of the 1966 Buick Chassis Manual.

    1966ModelChart.JPG

    And the VIN breakdown, the 6th character is the model year, in this case 6,

    1966VINPlate.JPG
     
  9. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    Jim,
    Here are the pictures you asked for. Some of the pictures are before the car was restored.
    Dale

    P1030486 - Copy.JPG P1030491 - Copy.JPG P1030492 - Copy.JPG P1030497 - Copy.JPG P1030500 - Copy.JPG 20171202_184518 - Copy.jpg 20171202_185009 - Copy.jpg 20171202_185057 - Copy.jpg
     
  10. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    That is all BUICK 10 bolt 8.2 absolutely positive. late 66 or 67 as long as it is 55.25 flange to flange and or 61' overall ... The yoke seal shield is a dead give way and then the big GS bearings and the extra raised bump stops for the frame and the original GS backing plate slug head (you left one original backing plate bolt) only GS has a slug head that thick.... it just physically is what it is. :) Jim
    J D Race
     
  11. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    Jim,
    Thanks for the response. I guess it was lucky that the disc conversion had you use one of the original bolts and I accidentally got it in the picture. The rear measures a little over 55" flange to flange. The date is the only thing that still doesn't make any sense. The second digit is definitely a "5", the third digit is either the top portion of a "1", "4", or a "7" and I am 90% sure it is a "4". It is the first digit that makes no sense, it looks more like a letter instead of a number. To me it looks like the top half of a capital"D". It looks like you cut the capital D in half and only placed the top half on the axle tube. Does it just simply mean the 54th day of either 66 or 67 or does the symbol that looks like a capital D mean something? Sorry for being a pain but if I decide to sell this rear end I don't want to misrepresent what it is. It would also make buying parts a lot easier if I decide to keep it.
    Thanks again,
    Dale
     
  12. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    [​IMG]

    Your date code is '45'
     
  13. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    I would ask the guy in the next topic down,that is looking to do a posi for his 66. This might be exactly what he wants.
     
  14. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    Thanks, I appreciate all the help.
    Dale
     
  15. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    Thanks, I will make a note of his name in case I decide to sell it and the first guy doesn't want it.
    Dale
     
  16. inda_bebe

    inda_bebe Well-Known Member

  17. Dale G

    Dale G Active Member

    So with everyone's help I am certain this rear is out of a 1966 GS.
    1) If I decide to replace the gears will this rear take the normal 8.2 ring and and pinion or is the pinion size different than the normal 8.2 like the axles?
    2) What is the spline count for the pinion, I think most of the ones I have looked at have 27 splines?
    3) Since these axles take the larger 507G bearings are the axles still the 28 spline found on normal 8.2 rear ends or is the spline count different?
    4) What is a really good brand of gears? I have found Dorman, Richmond, Yukon, USA Standard Gears, and Motive. The only one I have found that says it is Made in the USA is by OPGI, https://www.carid.com/1966-buick-skylark-driveline-axles/opgi-differential-gear-86179941.html but they are a lot more expensive. I have found good and bad comments about all of them. Basically I am wanting a good, dependable set of gears that are easy to install and don't make any noise.

    As always, thanks for the advice,
    Dale
     
  18. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    27-spline pinion,28-spline axles.
    Out of that list,I would use a Motive. They are a very nice gear.
     
  19. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    My best help would be to not so much worry about the gear set manufacture...BUT who will be installing the gear set.
    Yukon, Motive, Richmond are all good...PLEASE do not go by if they are made in USA or not...that does not guarantee good or bad...Sorry just the way it is today.
    I can totally understand supporting America and its product and keep the economy going...BUT we really need to work on our work ethics and products and that starts with us teaching our kids it MATTERS...all jobs matter do them with care morals and skill.... Please.... we have to change this land ...
    Sorry - Got major side tracked.... :(:eek::oops: we need help here.

    Jim
    JD
     
  20. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The Motive line made in Italy has a very nice cut and finish. No machining steps left out.
    The Richmond’s that are made in Italy,through Motive,look much better than the ones that are not.
     

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