Hey guys I finally got around to attempting to take the small block out and tranny to make the swap. How do i get the bar that the radiator mounts to off?
Alright thank you. I thought it did because someone posted it was easier to take the front grill off?
Also does anyone know if the TA long tube headers will fit on a 69 430 without modifications? Should i put them on the new motor before dropping it in?
Do not attach the headers to the engine before you drop it in. Put the headers in the engine compartment ready for install. Install the headers before you put the motor mount bolts in so you can lift the engine.
This is true but that top piece is not removable from the lower half. There are 4 bolts on the top (two per side into the fenders), two mounts to the frame (called radiator support mounts, they are like body mounts), and then two bars that attach underneath (one under the battery tray and the other under the charcoal canister). Once you remove those, then remove the bumper and support the fenders as they are not dangling in the front lol. Attached is what that bar is a part of. Other than that, if you have a engine hoist you should be able to lift it up and over that piece. Just make sure you have the clearance above.
The tighter the engine hoist arm is to the top of the engine, the better. DO NOT over-extend the hoist top arm. Have the "legs" extended as far as you can and still get it under the car. Be certain you have someone standing on the hoist base if you have to lift engine high. Easy to get hurt or put an engine through a windshield if You aren't careful. Not trying to scare You, I just want You to have zero problems. Hopefully, You will have someone there who has pulled engines before. Be careful! If You were near my locale, I'd help.
Thanks fir all the help guys, this is the first car motor I've pulled. I've done a boat before but that was pretty easy. Everything seems pretty easy so far just a few more bolts and should be ready to pull. About to take the hood off and yes i will wait until i have help.
WAIT!!! Before you remove the hood, drill a small (1/8") hole through each hinge and into the lower sheet metal just barely through to allow EASIER hood re=alignment, unless this is a concourse car. (Highly unlikely as you are doing this for your first time)Put some kind of a stop (washers, nuts, etc) on the drill bit to only allow about 3/8 " drill bit travel so you don't accidentally damage the outer sheet metal. You can just use a cotter pin or drill bit to help re=align the hood when reinsstalling it.
I ran into the same issue on my '56 Chevy. It was a six cylinder and just about everybody I asked told me that you had to either remove the radiator support or cut the top bar, then after installing the new engine, weld it back in place. I didn't want to do either. I did get the stovebolt out by removing the transmission (a three-speed stick), and installed the 264 Buick with the tranny attached. I practically had to stand the engine vertically to do it, but the top bar stayed put.
Can someone please post a photo of their intake without the air cleaner on. There are some differences in the holes and not sure what goes where?
I wouldve used the inboard set of holes. Less strain on the bolts and plate. ALWAYS try to stay in as close to parallel with the lifting device; even if pulling sideways. Five degrees off center can change a 10 ton eye bolt to a few hundred pounds in a hurry. The inboard holes are for a Q-jet and the outers are for an edelhoser.
