After putting a pro stock style hood on my car I have air issues.have the front mounts very secured now,hood doesn't move in front at all,but the rear raises at least a inch or more through the finish line. I have inner fenders on still and thinking about taking them out.what are you guys doing? I'm thinking that all the cars I've seen with this style scoop run without inners?
I have a reverse cowl on my car with inner fenders, does matter if I run a seal plate under the cowl area or not the rear of my glass hood pulls up. Ours just had zesus clips 4 on a side. I drill a hole through the hoods down lip into my fender and put a pin and clip. This is done at the very rear of hood, actually makes a nice hinge pin to open the hood and nit have to lift off. I also stiffened the bottom by roughing up the glass, soaking carpet padding in a liguid glass and hardner resin, then once hard covering with a layer of matting then repainting. These helped alot. I still get lift, but before I lifted so much I aborted the passes for fear of blow off
Dan removing the inners does help clear out the air that is trapped and raising the hood. Might even help mph.
I had a cowl hood on the car before I switched. Trying to get an idea if I would pickup some et,speed.maybe I should try a pass without a hood on.? Right now I am pulling 2 foot wheelies and carrying it out 50 feet.1.35 60 foots.not sure I want to take weight off the front.Lol
try adding some vents at the back to vent it out ? I had a similar prob. with my glass hood wanting to take flight
Keep the front down, that will improve et Stiffen rear shocks a couple clicks and limit front suspension travel, see what happens
What Adam said. Harwood's instructions say to cut at least two 1" vent holes in the rear of the seal plate, so that's what I have.
Pressurized hood scoops are good... defeating that pressurization is counter-productive to your goals. We had the same issues on the Regal, once we sealed it up.. and on Sweesy's car.. the cure was to add two hood pins, off of anchor points built off the firewall, and pinned the hood down tight adjacent to the rear of the scoop, on each side. I will see if I can find some pictures. JW
Thanks guys,keep the info coming.I may try your idea jim.how did you seal the grill? Don't want to break it .Lol
Dan, Cut plexiglass to fit in openings, and drill holes small holes in the plexiglass to secure them to each side of the grill openings with a couple of those electric fan mounting kits. We installed the cover plates on the front side of the grill, used smoked plexiglass. From a distance, it looks perfectly normal, you can't see it's sealed until you get close to it..
That's sounds like a great idea jim.I think I'll try that first.was also thinking of putting a couple holes it the rear of the scoop.
I would not do that Dan... remember those instructions are from the scoop manufacturer, to make their product not pull the hood off.. this makes it "work" in their eyes.. .they no longer get calls for folks complaining about the hood pulling up in a run. But that is the small picture, from their mindset.. The whole reason for a forward facing hood scoop, sealed up, is to pressurize nice clean air at speed, and ram in down the carb. The "mailbox" scoop was designed from a lot of R&D to do that by pro stock teams in the 90's.. striking the balance between the ram air effect and wind resistance.. If you do decide to de-pressurize the scoop, do it at the track between rounds.. I would be curious what it does, if anything to you times and mph.
Here are a couple of pics on how my cowl is tied down in the rear, it has the the normal four on each side with two in the front center. I don't always use the two rear ones, but if you forget the two front ones it will really bow up.
[QUOTE The whole reason for a forward facing hood scoop, sealed up, is to pressurize nice clean air at speed, and ram in down the carb. The "mailbox" scoop was designed from a lot of R&D to do that by pro stock teams in the 90's.. striking the balance between the ram air effect and wind resistance.. I.[/QUOTE] That's it Jim nice clean pressurized air.....might need one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/292149551281?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
We had the same issue with our cowl, we bent some brake line to simulate the the opening in the stk hook, and use the factory latch to hold the front down. Once it was lined up and marked we just laid matting and glassed in right into the hood. Now after all the side clips are locked I just walk to front apoly a little pressure on the nose and it latches down and holds