Here are a few detail shots. The first is the butt hinge arrangement. The bolt isnt all the way in. Its fits tight, so I didnt install it all the way for the pictures.
I would probably blow you away with just the cost of materials! Just the flood light bulbs and lamp holders were 240.00. Add the the cost of the aluminum (which has gone up considerably), the automotive quality finish and vinyl lettering. Without taking out a pencil, I would say it cost me about 750.00 and several hours of labor. Its a good thing I dont think about these things when I start stuff like this
What is the style lettering the sign shop used ? Gotta be close as possible to correct or just will not have the look
The reason its not on there yet is because I couldnt find the exact font. I did happen to find a font this morning that is almost perfect. Its called "Facet Regular". I'll be ordering a set this week.
The Chrondek lettering is called "Artbrush" Mike. Its in all caps. I oredered those letters from Greatlettering.com If you compare the Chrondek lettering from the cover of the magazine and mine, you'll notice that the two words start and stop in the same locations on the pole as the original. Its that attention to detail thing coming through. btw Mike- I got your message on my machine. I've been out all day hanging out on my friends boat. I'll give you a call tomorrow
OK Jason , detail is the factor to make it great . But with Chrondek selling out only a few will actually know if the lettering is correct . That few of us are among the older crowd , actually not a crowd anymore , small group . I still remember my first time looking at the lights , a bit intimidating . Look forward to hearing from you .
Jadebird,Talk to me about controllers. What sort of a design would work for this? Im thinking some sort of a 10 channel controller.
There are a few different ways to go with this. It depends on your experience with electronics. First thing to consider is how you will drive the bulbs. Relays will work, but they wear out over time. I would use triacs to switch the lights. Next consideration is the controller. A microcontroller could be used to trigger the triacs, or even one of the many cheap micro plc's that are available. The microcontroller will require programming hardware and software, and then a board to interface the 5V logic level outputs to drivers for switching the bulbs. There are opto-isolators meant for this sort of thing that will drive a triac. If you still want me to build something for you, I will do it for only the cost of any parts I would have to buy. I might have some of the stuff laying around, and it would make my wife happy to get it out of the basement. ________ White widow seeds
One other thing... depending on how complex you want it to be, and how accurate as far as timing is concerned, you can also use opamp based analog circuitry to do it, and this can be very cheap, but isn't easy to change. ________ LovelyWendie
It just dawned on me that you are not going to need 10 outputs because you will have 5 pairs of bulbs, each pair operating in parallel. That means, 5 outputs, each driving 2 bulbs, right? Something like this would be really easy: http://web2.automationdirect.com/ad...tLogic_05_(Micro_Brick_PLC)/PLC_Units/D0-05AA Use it to directly drive triacs for each bulb (since the outputs are only good for .5A), wire up a pushbutton on the input side, write a little software, and you're done. That would be the simplest way to go. ________ Extreme vaporizer
The automation direct micro plc mentioned above has downloadable software that will do 100 lines for free. You would need a programming cable, but they are cheap. I could build a box for you with the PLC already programmed (with comments in the code so you could see how it all works) and the triacs all mounted up and ready to go, if you want. I could also do the microcontroller using an AVR (I have the development package for that) and a custom board, or an analog board. Let me know if you want any help. EDIT: I guess I should have looked at the picture. Looks like you need more outputs than that controller has. Something like this would do it, but it's a lot more expensive: http://web2.automationdirect.com/ad...Expandable_Micro_Brick_PLC)/PLC_Units/D0-06AA Looks like a microcontroller and board will be the cheapest way to go. ________ MERCEDES-BENZ M113 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
You lost me midway through the first post! ou: :laugh: As far as lighting the bulbs- 1-Pre stage lights come on 2- Stage lights come on (pre staged lights stay lit) 3- first set of yellows 4-second set 5-third set 6-fourth set 7-fifth set 8-green lights So Im thinking 8 channels.
