Thanks. I'll have to check the model #'s on the amp and pre-amp tonight. The speakers are JSE Infinite Slope Model 2. Below is a link to an E-bay ad for the same ones...has pic. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143507498153
Thanks. They have quite the sound, especially when paired with the Counterpoint tubed amps and pre-amp and everything was functioning properly. Full, crisp but warm at the same time. If you closed your eyes listening to this system, you would think the band was live in front of you. Anyway, their design is both good for the sound they produce but flawed too since they are on an angle and dust would collect on the speakers and dry rot both the foam and the speaker membrane until they cracked. Biggest issue is the crossover network, this is a feature of these speakers that helps account for their great sound...I would need to replace the speakers with something fully compatible for the crossovers to function correctly. The cabinets are fine, solid wood and weigh 125lbs each.
I know what you mean about live music GraySky. If set up right you hear everything. All at ounce. I find it easyier to get that seperation in car audio than home equipment. But ive never tried having 3 seperate speaker towers for high mid and low. Do you prefer the new digital crossover circuits or the resister capacitor coil type. Or combination.
1300 is out of my price range for speakers. I hope at that price range the magnets ate at least centered and cut evenly
If ever there was something to replace in those consoles, it is the speakers. They were the weak link typically. 1st choice- buffered passive line level. 2nd choice opamp active 3rd choice traditional coil cap passive Usually a combination of the first 3. I'm not a digital guy, but can appreciate their virtues.
I bet they were awesome. Unfortunately I've designed enough speakers to know that nothing else beside the original drivers will work with your crossover.
My Dad was a DJ at my uncle's disco back in the 70s and was a pretty big audiophile. He must've had 500 records. I ended up with his digital expander and a few other choice pieces but left them all behind except for my Advents I inherited when he switched to Infinity SMs.
As shown in my photos, replacing rotted foam surrounds is no big deal. True enough, the replacement foams are unlikely to be 100% equivalent to the originals--but better to have 95% of perfection in a repaired driver than 0% of perfection in a failed, un-useable driver. Cracked speaker "membrane" I don't understand. Photos? Replacing caps and resistors in a speaker crossover can't be all that difficult. Replacing inductors isn't hard, but it's not typically needed, and you need to match both the actual inductance and the DC resistance to keep the speaker voicing. Speaker crossovers are typically not that complex, and they've got components that are large enough to be worked on by human beings. Any chance you have photos of the crossovers, or even a schematic? One speaker driver having two voice coils wound on the same former. Either or both voice coils causes the driver to vibrate to make music. Often used for subwoofers, because "most" music is recorded monophonic in the bass. But not all music. So a single subwoofer driver, connected to both stereo channels using a dual voice coil, can play strong monophonic bass using energy from both channels. It can also play bass that's in one channel but not the other, using energy from the channel that has bass, through one of the two voice coils.
O.K., so I went down to the basement and dug out some of my old stereo equipment. I have a Micro Seiki MB15 turntable with an Ortofon Concorde cartridge, a Yamaha Natural Sound Stereo Receiver RX-900U and an Aiwa (sorry, not an Akai) Metal/Stereo Cassette Deck M250.
The magnetic field generated by the coil attracts or repels from the permanent magnet as the audio signal changes polarity from plus to minus. The magnet is fixed to the frame and doesn't move, while the coil is attached to the cone, so it moves it. Dual voice coil just has two coils to wire to.
Shouldn't have to touch the crossover, except to replace caps. I personally haven't replaced surrounds, so I can't comment on that, other than to say it does change the specs unless you get an exact replacement.
My power block: it took the place of a NAD 2200 which I loved as well but one side kept having problems like a relay not kicking in. Just funny to see an amp like mine on V8buick!
Thank you . He had some JBL (I think) 12" three ways with a passive radiator as his bigger pair with these on the sides. All this stuff was from the 70s, I was a real little kid being born in '79, but I remember all the needles, dials, buttons, and LEDs hahaha. When he got the Infinitys, I dont think the system ever sounded as good as these old Advents.
THAT would be the older amp designed by D'Agostino. Sold like hotcakes...by high-end audio standards. I had a late-production 4004 that I bought in 1991, just as the Mark II was coming out. Later I got a 4004 Mark II. Sold them both and bought the newer design (8008 series) Is it a Mark II? If not, what output transistors does yours have--RCA or Toshiba? There were several "running changes" during the production life of the 4004. There are some that say the older, 4004 Mark II was a better-sounding amp than the 8008 series.
I think the old large Advents were the best sounding speakers you could buy back then. Especially if you bought a second pair and stacked them tweeter to tweeter. That is what I did. I paid $109 a piece for mine, brand new, back in the late 70's. I thought they sounded better than speakers costing 4-5 times as much, and my friends agreed. I still have one pair.
