High Performance Nailheads

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by funkyriv, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member

    yeah... it was the camera. I Just took those photos last week. My batteries were going dead and was able to click a few between it turning itself off and decide to forego taking the time to set the time and date.

  2. TAANK

    TAANK Well-Known Member

    Re: some eye candy while we are waiting...

    ok i have to ask where did the headers come from? and how much
  3. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member


    I ordered them in plain steel finnish. I will have to drill a small hole in each tube near the header flange for the exhaust gas temp probes for the dyno. They could also be used for individual O2 sensors. After the testing I will weld them closed send them off to be ceramic coated.

    ...That is unless someone else wants to buy them from me for their own dyno testing. I will have other parts used for the dyno I won't need anymore also. It might be best if I kept all that stuff together and sold it all together for the next person that wants to dyno their nailhead.

  4. TAANK

    TAANK Well-Known Member

    think those will fit in a lesabre
  5. Detroit Rivi

    Detroit Rivi Well-Known Member

    You have Paypal mail:3gears:
  6. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member

    Rickytype & Detroit Rivi- Donations Received! Thank You!

    TAANK- They might. I don't know. I can take some measurements if you want. Just let me know.

  7. Lee Martin

    Lee Martin Active Member

    I just put a set of coated Sandersons on my 401 (in a '33 Ford coupe). Great headers and I was really pleased with how compact they are....sound good too.
  8. Mr62Buick

    Mr62Buick Guest

    Hi, this is Steve AKA Mr62Buick..... I am currently making a production run of my own headers for the nailhead. They will fit a 1959-1966 any buick nailhead car. These are mandrel 1 5/8" tubes with ball and socket style collectors. I heard you were going to do a dyno run with stock and sanderson headers..... can I offer a set of mine for loan for a dyno run?? I live in Portland, OR.... would be a small drive to see what these can do against sandersons 1 1/2" and the stockers... email me at mr62buick@yahoo.com
  9. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member

    Stephen Campell- Donation received! Thank You

    Contributors List: :TU:
    Tom Telesco $100.00
    Tim Dyment $50.00
    Don Gagnon $50.00
    EDWARD NAGEL $50.00
    jerry andrew $50.00
    james karnes $50.00
    Ross Wildbore $50.00
    Scott McVey $25.00
    Kenneth Lisk $25.00
    robert waechter $25.00
    Stephen Campbell $20.00
    Ricky Jung $20.00
    Margaret Matthew $20.00
    Douglas Millard $20.00
    Walter Kilgus $20.00
    daniel schwarze $20.00
    Anthony Yacopino $50.00
    Ints Luters $20.00
    Standard 1320 Productions $10.00
    Buddy George $20.00
    Total $695.00
    After fees: $669.12

    Mr 62Buick- Are you getting your e-mails, and PM's? I have sent you messages about your headers.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2008
  10. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    HOLY BLANKITY-BLANK!!!!!!!!!!!! 27.7 PERCENT FEES FOR PAYPAL!!!!!!!!! No wonder so many don't want to use it. I was thinking about it but forget it now!!!!!!!
  11. yacster

    yacster Lv the gun tk the Canolis

    Tom it is 3% on each transaction.

    Erik- $20.00 more sent from Tom T. (someone gave him the money to give to you.
    I threw in another $30.00 :TU:

    Get 'r done!!
  12. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Erik, the $20.00 is from Buddy George in Mass. He has a '52 Henry J with a 401 Nail.

    Tom T.
  13. Babeola

    Babeola Well-Known Member

    I found this information and picture a while ago and saved them for future reference:

    Below is a picture of a 63 Riviera with a supercharged Nailhead 401. It has an ATI Procharger set-up. It was built by PAE and has the switch pitch transmission as well. The installation of the procharger is custom made, and is a combination of cut and welded factory brackets and modified supercharger brackets. Pistons are a custom design with lower compression. The carburetor inlet is sealed to feed the carburetor with pressurized air, and pressurize the float bowls through the vent tubes. The carburetor is a 750 Holley with mechanical secondaries. The intake manifold is a stock cast iron manifold with provisions for adapting the Holley carburetor. Boost was estimated to around 6 psi. It was said to make about 550 hp on the dyno when first fired up.

    Cheryl :)

    Attached Files:

  14. yacster

    yacster Lv the gun tk the Canolis

    nice save Cheryl. I wonder what 8.5 compression and 10-12 lbs. of boost would give one??
  15. GranSportSedan

    GranSportSedan Puppet dictator, wife has all power

    I plan to find out soon. :beers2:
  16. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member

    Donation recieved from Buddy George via Tom, and your additional $30 Yacster. Thank You!

    My appologies on the incorrect "after fees" amount. It is now corrected. I had a formatting error in my spreadsheed I was keeping track of the donations on. The funny thing is I cut it right out of Pay-pal and pasted it in XL.

    And yes... there is a 3.2% fee assessed on every transaction depending on what level of account you have with pay-pal. I upgraded my account just after we started doing this, so there were a couple early donations that had a slightly higher fee.

    Has this style of blower ever been used in combination with dual carbs and could that work??:eek2:
  17. funkyriv

    funkyriv Well-Known Member

    Excellent! I'll give Jim Burek a call to see what else is necessary (head porting, cam, pistons, etc, etc, etc) Thanks!!!
  18. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly post whore

    thats sweet but twin turbors again would be a much easier set up but you wouldnt have the bottom end until it built boost. but for turbors its really simple basically its just a custom header a little pipe plumbing and a intercooler. ive actaully seen them used on oem headers by mounting them under the car but you open up more potential to damage them this way.
  19. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    easy enough to do turbos this way: http://www.ststurbo.com/home

    just make your own setup. on the early riv's there's PLENTY of space where the muffler went right in front of the rear axle.

    much easier to build boost on the line with turbo's than with a SC... also can have full boost much earlier in relation with the RPM's, and don't have to swap pullies etc... just turn down (or up) your boost controller.

    AHH65riv... i think dual quads could be done, it would just be a b!tch to tune

  20. funkyriv

    funkyriv Well-Known Member

    Thanks for posting this concept! I took a look at it. STS is quick to point out the real advantages of their design; turbos spool-up at low RPM and the system is easier to install given the easy access generally found in the rear of most cars.

    Unfortunately, STS makes little attempt at discussing the downsides of their idea while showing how other methods compare poorly. This is not surprising because they are trying to sell a product. I can quickly see 3 major problems with the STS design.

    Locating the turbos in the rear of the car means long exhaust and compressed intake flow paths. Long turbulent flow paths cause large drops in pressure/boost, so the turbos will have to be oversized compared to a supercharger or turbo that is proximally located to the intake. the relative pressure loss due to extra length and/or bends is easy to calculate for any length of pipe - its just a conductance calculation.

    Long turbulent flow paths also means larger time lag from mashing your foot in the pedal and feeling the boost. Turbos may spool at lower RPM than a Centrifugal supercharger, but it generally takes a longer amount of time to do it - well-known turbo lag - the STS system will likely have significantly more turbo lag given the long gas paths involved. one could also estimate this effect using standard gas flow times.

    Also, locating a turbo near the nastiest dirt, mud, and moisture area of a car doesn't seem like a good idea, even if it will run cooler outside of the engine compartment. There is probably an easy way to protect the turbos when located on the rear of the exhaust, but intercoolers can also do a fine job of cooling turbo hardware that is located in the engine compartment (primarily through compressed intake gas cooling).

    these thoughts are subject to change as a result of better thinking!

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