Help with my little 350 please...

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by [JP], Sep 2, 2017.

  1. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Hurry up and wait!:D
     
  2. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    This wait is killing me.... i'm like an over excited kid at christmas!

    meanwhile been busy with other things, to keep me busy. Have had a 68 harley panshovel for about 4 years, this winter decided to dig into it thinking would be an easy one to get back on the road.. found a tappet roller bearing had gone and all the bearings bits embedded in the oil pump return gears...

    [​IMG]
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    Once I get this bike engine done I'll return back to work on the Buick engine....
    still a few things to do... get pistons out to clean, do the hone on the bores, clean a few more parts and paint them...
    also need to dig out on this thread where is that bit about splitting the oil warning light connection into a T on the engine block so I can connect oil light and oil pressure gauge, so I can order the parts required.

    there was also a thread somewhere with explanation on how to set the oil pump clearances etc, but just read through the whole 23 pages on here and can't find where someone linked to that said thread...

    Can't wait till it's all done and back on the road.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
  3. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    got an update from shippers...
    container will arrive on the 31st of january.... February will be engine rebuild time!
     
    MrSony likes this.
  4. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    That oil pump housing looks kinda crappy, or is it just got some goop in it? Also, I just put a T fitting in for a gauge and the light. Pretty simple, might need to file the fitting down a little. There is a little bump out in the block that the T hits when you try to spin it in. It's 3/8 NPT if I remember correctly. tee3.jpg
     
  5. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    MrSony, that oil pump is no good.
    the tappets bearings are needle bearings, one of them exploded and all the bearings got jammed in the oil pump return flow gears and what you can see on the oil pump is grooves cut on the ally where the gears forced the needle bearing bits into the ally as its softer.
    I have a new pump body coming, but I'm going to fix that one. weld the pump and then get on a mill and bore it out to spec.

    Thanks for that photo of the T fitting! I did end up finding the other thread, but thanks for that.
    so it's 3/8's that go into the engine and I'm getting the fitting it self is a female 3/8 where the oil light switch goes to right? and the pressure gauge? is it also 3/8... or I'm guessing that depends on the brand of gauge..
    but either way, it's a T fitting with 1 male (into the engine) and 2 female on the T right?

    So.. while waiting for parts today spent about 9h on the engine. been cleaning up parts, pistons, heads, intake... want to have it all ready for assembly once the parts get here.
    I found this little bit stuck inside the water ways on the head.. what the hell is this? I ended up pulling it out and it broke... is it part of the head.. or might have come from somewhere else? I reckon it came from somewhere but wonder it is...

    [​IMG]
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    and a pretty photo :)

    [​IMG]

    I've cleaned the heads with a bunch of brake cleaner and pressure washer, but someone told me to put them in the dishwasher? will it damage the dishwasher? most, if not all, of the gunk is gone
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
    killrbuick66455 likes this.
  6. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    That metal in the cooling port is from the casting process, just yank it out and discard.

    Your dishwasher will be fine if you clean your pistons in it especially how clean you already have them. Just make sure you blow them dry with compressed air and oil the wristpins after they come out so those don't rust. Rusty wristpins don't move like they should, they can get sticky or worse, freeze up! They'll be alright if you dry and oil though.
     
  7. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Yep, 1 male 2 female.
     
  8. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    thank you!

    Great progress this weekend.
    intake manifold all cleaned up and primed, heads and pistons currently in the dishwasher... felt great working again on my truck.

    My little girls keeps asking when its ready so we can go out in it, cannot wait till the parts are here to put it all back together. once parts are here I'll probably start a new thread with the whole build? probably better right?
     
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  9. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    You probably could start a new thread, but this thread is already so long. Might as well give it a good ending!
     
  10. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    Some more photos to keep this going...
    The intake all cleaned up and the pistons and heads after a clean, then coated it all in ACF50 and engine oil, paying special attention to the wrist pins.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    killrbuick66455 likes this.
  11. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    OK JP ; here is a pic for u to ponder. 1968 430 Buick. Both heads full of debris where oil drains back into block.1 head clean around springs etc. The second head had a small white streak where I wanted u to look on your heads. Cracked! Next to impossible. To find heads that aren't crkd for 68-69
     

    Attached Files:

  12. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    they are looking a bit dirty now that i've coated it all till the parts get here, but I had a careful look on all of it and there's no cracks on mine.
    Just went to the garage and took these photos of one of the heads

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    I have a quesstion if you guys dont mind...

    in regards to honing the cylinder, it doesn't look like I can get that brush type honing tool, will the one with the 3 stones definitely not be good enough? I remember someone saying earlier on this thread that it won't break the glaze?
    but all the videos I see on youtube on how to do a hone people use that 3 stone type.....
    and how do I go about selecting the most suitable one in terms of size? is there some calculation regarding the cylinder bore and the width the tool should reach and length of the stones?

    another question is on the device and paste for lapping the valves? are particular size/type/brand to go for?

    sorry for all the questions, now trying to get everything I need in preparation for when the parts get here...
    so it's honing tool, tool for lapping the valves, grinding paste, cam breaking lube, assembly lube.... need to get all of that.

    thanks!
    JP
     
  14. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    The 3 stone hone isn't really meant for giving a cross hatch, just for breaking the glaze on a worn cylinder bore. You sure you can't get the ball hone? They're available on summit, among other places. The hone I bought (from summit) is #BRH-GB33424. It's 3.75 inches in diameter, but it fits in the 3.8 bore snugly. Don't know how or why, don't care. It gives a really nice cross hatch when done properly with lube, to wash away the metal and to prevent burning up the stones. I used WD40. Most hardware/parts stores, maybe even some home renovation stores should have valve lapping compound. in the packs of two, there are generally a heavy grit and a finer grit. Use what you think is best, check your work, and go as you see fit. Clean the guides too. I use WD40 and a brass bottle brush chucked into a drill and run it through a few times until the valve slides in and out like butter. Check the valve stems for wear, they can be mushroomed out from years of use. Take some fine emery cloth and clean em up, just enough to where they will slip in the guides, if you have to. Check for cracks or bent valves as well.
     
    [JP] likes this.
  15. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    There's been some progress last night. One of my friends knows a friend who knows a friend.. and my first friend (who rents the big workshop with me) is ordering parts from Summit, all coming in via this other friend.. sounds quite complicated! anyway.. it means I can order from Summit.

    We also found out he already has the valve grinder and compound, so I can use that.
    Also we have cam assembly paste.

    So what Im doing is ordering the valve guide seals, valley pan and the honing tool via this friend and should be here end of January as its air mail delivery.

    In regards to the honing, can I use engine oil as a lubricant? I have loads of old bottles (but new oil) from the motorbikes, oil that I dont use anymore as its semi synthetic and I now only use 20/50 mineral.

    thanks for the tips MrSony!
    I cannot wait to get into this engine and build the whole thing back up again.

    thanks!
    JP
     
  16. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Yes you can use engine oil for honing.
     
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  17. [JP]

    [JP] Well-Known Member

    Excellent, thank you for confirm that.

    Oh another thing I need to get, I think that's all that I'm missing...

    engine oil.. and any sealant for gaskets? I don't use any sealant on the bikes, just gaskets but I bet on this engine I'll need some time of RTV sealant for the intake manifold at least?

    Engine oil... what is the recommended? on my bikes I use a good quality mineral 20/50... throughout the breaking in process... to start the engine up, ride 100 miles, drop oil out, ride another 500, drop oil out... always use the same type.

    but what about the 350?
    bear in mind it will only be driven in temperatures between 50F and 75F... the odd day temperature might get to 80F, but very rarely!
    and I don't usually drive it in the winter. most of the summer here is around 70/75F, and that's like 2 months.

    thanks!
    JP
     
  18. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    10w30 at that temp for break in or maybe straight 30. 20/50 is way too thick for a Buick engine unless you’re in a desert.
     
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  19. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Comp sells break in oil (again on summit) or use a good quality oil with a zinc additive for break in. I typically change the oil after break in, 100 miles, 500, 1000, then every 3. I run 10w30 in warmer weather.
     
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

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