that a better pic but set the head with the exhaust side directly in front of camera. Same height same angle but turn it around to show area right below springs where oil would. Run down
The oil filter bypass is in the filter housing. The little disc stamped in with a spring behind it. Should be black in color. The oil pickup passage I would drill and get the new screen. Even if you don't drill it out get the neeer screen. That's 8 inches it's not fighting pulling oil up into engine.
oh right, so not touch the filter bypass? but that thing is sideways, someone said it should sit flush? or do you mean dont bother touching it as in just get a new pump? im confused... sorry!
It does look odd. Just can't tell from pic. Maybe you can flush it and get it to sit flat with a small screwdriver
yes I can do that, make it sit flush. wondered if this was some kind of common fault and I should get a new one.... I'll make it sit flush, and order the oil pressure regulator from TA Will be a few days till I get down to the workshop now, but next time I'm there I'll check the bearings and journals and all that.. if there's scoring I guess I'll have to order new ones. this is going up and up on the expenses bill... and being my birthday today I think I've just bought a 1959 triumph flat track racer, which I wasn't counting on. but that thing is so old and crusty and running that I just couldn't say no! hahaha
That part about being expensive is 1 of reasons most engines expire.too much $$ to replace everything in motor the Chevy guys can order a kit everything in it and its done. When I build the 68 engines it takes about 10 heads to find 2 useable heads and that was over 10 years ago.those old cars are all gone. Hete is a pic. Of my cover gear pocket next to cover of core engine cover. As usual heads were cracked on core.my cover is like new.-red one is wasted. A new cover is mandatory for me.Next is engine in shop.72 455. Too much thrust. Head gaskets blownetc.
Another thing I always do is replace rocker assembly crucial on 68 v-8s.use to pick best rockers out of all. Now just get reman. More$$$$. On + on it goes.Ask me how I know. Any way good luck on latest bike project. I'm into prewar bikes.I gotta go now the oil in my 69 hasn't been change since I had it out to mill the deck
Hello.. long time since I've updated this. have had no time recently to go to the workshop but just returned from there.. doesnt look good. the crank was getting rounded all the bearings are scored as well as the crank. looks like there has been oil starvation for a while... So.. not good. I have evaluated the option of getting a chevy engine here, but not worth it. Chevy engines are expensive.. could be looking at about 2k to 3k without any guarantees.. so I could risk buying an engine and then having to rebuild it again. So I reckon will be worth rebuilding this one? then I know its good and will last my ownership. what do you guys think of grounding the crank say 10 thou and then buying overzised bearings? Think the proper name is journals? not sure what you call it over in the US. I think I have seen that TA does oversized ones. I'm also going to need them for the conrods and all... basically the whole lot.
The crank journal doesn't look bad for a motor from 1969. When you find them dark with apparent heat transfer to block is when u have problem can. U return to post requesting pic of head as I described? If it was me on my first build I would soak all pistos in Gunk to clean them Replace can bearings and have heads magnifluxed for cracks on top of heads. My 68 is starting to smoke a lil bit.
My intention is to run car thru winter.with present engine. Although I have a fresh shortblock When I turn it over I felt crank was tight. I remember my friend checking linebore + stating it was a .002 off then a thou off as he rotated gauge. Ichecked into adapters for Chevy engine but if I have to get inside crossmember to install might as well put factory stuff in. I got to go now have to put mudflaps to keep salt off quartet. panels
Hi, no havent taken a photo yet, will do it soon. the heads are in the truck bed and there's a big cover over the truck as one of my friends been doing bodywork in the workshop so there's dust everywhere. didn't have time to move cover and get to the heads. I'll do it as soon as possible. Ohh and good news about buying from TA!! I have bought another bike in the US and a friend in Oklahoma is shipping it here in January, so I have asked him how much to bring all the parts over and he won't charge me anything! result! means I won't pay shipping or the import tax on the parts into the UK... so its all go to order everything from TA! really happy about that.. only thing is it will only get here in January. I think so far my parts list is something like this now, but some of them don't know the part numbers yet: ???- TA Valve springs for 212 cam ???- TA Spring retainers ???- TA Valley Pan ???- TA Timing gear ???- TA Valve seals TA212-350 -- TA 212-350 cam TA1406 -- TA Hydraulic lifters 68-69 TA1419A -- TA Stock pushrods TA1507 -- TA oil pump rebuild kit TA1502 -- TA oil pressure regulator TA1510 -- TA booster plate TA1550 -- TA .10 Main bearings TA1540 -- TA .10 Rod Bearings TA1559S -- TA High Perf cam bearing kit TA1705B -- TA full gasket set with neoprene TA1520D -- TA 5/8 oil pickup tube
Ya I bought another bike too the bike had sat next to a skylark.the car rotted to the ground. The bikes rims crumbled where they faced the ground Again as before-its place is next to a Buick.the bike is a 1938. Although the recent purchase I speak of is a 1936.
All good parts. You should get new springs, the TA Stage 1 springs I believe can use the stock retainers and whatnot. I recently bought comp 980-16 springs off summit, and they are the same size (more or less) than stock and quite a bit stiffer so throttle response should be improved and it won't feel as "mushy" and float valves at low rpm. Plus they're almost 50 years old. Might as well replace. Any competent shop can give you a good valve job on the heads, or you can try lapping them yourself. Take a cordless drill, put a long bit in it, get a peice of rubber hose, use hose clamps to attatch the hose to the bit and the other end to the end of the valve (springs removed, valve sitting in the head) and apply a coat of lapping compound, then spin the drill while moving the valve on and off the valve seat paying close attention to the shiny line that it's making. I test them by putting water in the chamber and seeing if any leaks down through the valve seat. It's very rudimentary, but it'd work in a pinch. OH, and the bearings you want are .010 oversize (to compensate for the undersize crank after it's ground) not .10. Might've been a typo, but that's a BIG difference. lol Lastly, the TA1559S is the single cam bearing just so you know.
yes, new springs definitely... its part of my list but didn't know which to use. ???- TA Valve springs for 212 cam ???- TA Spring retainers ???- TA Valley Pan ???- TA Timing gear ???- TA Valve seals this is the bits I'm missing part numbers. and yes, that's a typo on the cam bearing, because before I was going just for the single one, now need all of them, changed the description but missed the part number. and yes, typo as well on the oversized bearings, should be 0.010 I will definitely lap the valves, done it on motorbikes, can't be much different...just more to do ahaha. I usually use petrol or thinners to see if they are sealing properly. Will need to give TA a call as they are not very good on emails. would it be worth rebuilding the oil pump? all gears inside look ok...
You don't need to rebuild the pump but it's a good idea too. Use the "Stock" or standard volume kit. All the stuff is under 70 bucks from TA (not including shipping) so you might as well. Part numbers are as follows: -Springs: TA_1436, Stage 1 350 Springs, alternatively the Comp 980-16 springs from summit are a good fit, and have similar specs to the TA Springs. Similar, but not the same. -Use the stock retainers and keepers if they are in good shape, as in no visible wear or damage. -Valley Pan: can be bought from summit, FEL-MS96006 -Timing Set, don't get just the gear. That chain is probably 40+ years old. Double Roller Timing Set, 3 way adjustable, 0*, -*4, and +4*, TA_1521B. Summit also has timing sets Cloyes Double Roller, also 3 way adjustable: CLO-9-1132. -Valve Seals, depends on what type you want. if you want to use the little white chevy seals, your valve guides will need cut. If you use umbrella type seals, use these: CCA-504-16 If you want the other type of seal that sits on the guide, use these: ST-2002
there will be no machine shop... I'm not getting pistons either? on the pistons side all seems good, so I might just leave it. I was just going to send the crank over to a shop to get it ground 0.010... that should be suficient to get rid of that scoring? If I have to send to get everything measured I won't have time to take advantage of free shipping and free import tax to the UK, as won't have time to get all done, then order the parts from TA and send them over to my friend in oklahoma to bring in the container. So you guys have an idea, if I was to order around $800 of parts from TA and get it shipped directly to the uk, I would probably be looking at another $600 of import tax.... Thanks MR Sony for those details. I'll have a look later with more time and then add it to the parts list. Although I have seen you put some lists from summit, I know before I was trying to get everything from Summit, but now with the chance of getting it all in a shipping container together with the bike i bought, I'm going, or trying to, get everything from TA as you guys recommended them so much
