After a year of listening to me complain about my leaky Dynaflow, I've finally decided to take care of the problem once and for all. But before I go ahead and yank the trans I'd like to at least try and figure out what the culprit is. I've been told that there are three possible sources for my leak. Either the converter drain plugs are loose, the o-ring between the converter pump cover and converter pump is shot, or the front seal is bad. I removed the flywheel/converter cover last night and looked around in the bellhousing. The drain plugs seemed tight and dry, as did the seam between the converter pump cover and converter pump. This leads me to believe it's probably the front seal. I did start the car up with the cover off to try and find the leak. The only thing I discovered was that without the cover the leaked fluid simply sprays (actually a light mist) in a straight line under the flywheel and converter. Does anyone else have any suggestions on what I can check while the trans is still in the car? I'm definitely thinking it's the front seal, but I'm certainly open to an easier solution. Also, assuming I do have to yank the trans, would it be easier to pull it out from underneath the car or pull it out along with the motor? Technically I don't have to pull the motor, but I might if it would make removing the trans easier, plus then I could repaint it and touch up the engine bay. Thanks guys. Looks like summer cruising will be mighty slim this year .
Just for the hey of it have you tried putting a pint of brake fluid in???? Even if it just slows down the leak you could cruise all summer & take care of it when the season is over. Pull the trans. or the engine. If you want to clean up the engine bay anyway. Be careful that thing is HEAVY!!!!!!
Tom is on to something here , use only Wagner Brake fluid,,, Once I had a Ford c6 that would not even pull the car, or shift at all, put in a pt. of Wagner brake fluid on the advice of a friend that owns a trans shop and the trans worked right for another year.... but when it went the second time it had to be rebuilt.....
Hmmm, I had not heard of the brake fluid trick. As a last ditch efffort I used some "stop-leak", which did nothing what so ever. Should I still throw some brake fluid in there? And if I yank the trans, should I yank the motor/trans as an assembly? It seems like it would be a pain in the ass pulling it out from underneath. Thanks for the suggestion guys!
After years of just pulling one component or the other when I needed to, I've found it's much easier to pull the works, (engine and transmission) all out at once. That allows you to detail things, take care of bad gaskets, see suspension components for the first time, etc. If you're doing this in your garage and don't have a proper hoist, this would be the way to go. It also makes splitting the transmission easier; - it's easier to work with it on the ground as opposed to under the car. The dynaflow is going to be a heavy beast, - I wouldn't want to pull it out from under a car using a floor jack and some plywood; - it would be better to that using a proper hoist to get the car fully in the air and a transmission jack. The problems you might get into would be splitting the exhaust, and wrecking some wiring. If that's the case, it probably needed replacing anyway. The other thing that might happen is while that engine is sitting on the crane and you're having a cool one, you might decide to tear it down, - since it's out anyway. My advice there is to keep focused, and have another cool one!:laugh:
I have just resolved the same problem on my 56 Special with the Dynaflow, I pulled the rear end and transmission from under the car. Last summer I overhauled the engine so I didnt want to pull it again. The only major issue I would have with pulling the engine and trans is trying to line up the torque tube with the torque ball with the complete set up (assuming you dont move the rear end back). Honestly either way the rear end will have to be moved at least 6 inches back. * this information is based on a 56 Special and may not be suitable for all makes and models.
Also agreeing with Tom and Doc. I hadn't heard of this before, until recently from my grandfather. Apparently the brake fluid will cause the rubber components in the trans to swell some, so as to prevent them from leaking. That is the idea behind the brake fluid, correct me if I'm wrong, gentlemen?
Thankfully I don't have to deal with this becuase the '62 is a traditional driveshaft car. Otherwise I'd really be complaining! It was a gorgeous day today; sunny, 80*, and not a cloud in the sky. After taking a little cruise I decided I really don't want to pull the motor/trans if I can help it. Like I said, I already dumped in a bottle of "stop leak" to no avail. Should I still throw in a pint of Wagner Brake Fluid along with the "stop leak" already in there? Or am I basically screwed at this point? Thanks for the tips and advice guys!
Well, guy, basicly You were screwed before you did anything....and adding brake fluid will only do so much,,,, for just so long,,,, you do not mention any trans slipping problems.... but if you go to the trouble of pulling the big heavy monster out, you just as well go all the way thru it.... then you will have a trans that will last for many years and miles .....dynas are good tough transmissions that are far under rated in most cases....
Nope, the trans doesn't seem to slip, but then again it's a little hard to tell with a Dynaflow. I guess I'll try the brake fluid and cross my fingers. I already have a spare Dynaflow waiting to go back in. It's been gone through and resealed, and is basically ready to drop in. The only thing I'll have to rob off the leaky trans is the converter. Thanks for the help Doc.
Swapping converters is not as you may know it. They come apart in MANY pieces. Better arm yourself with some reading knowledge beforehand.
I had a leak like this and took it to my transmission guy to fix. By the time it was pulled and repaired we had $600 labor and 1200 more in parts. It never leaked again either
Yes, but my understanding is that if I swap the complete converter as an assembly I should be ok. I'll have to study up with my shop manuals!
Yep , Tom is right, there is an impeller and a stator and some more crap in there and one needs to know exactly what he is doing to open one up ...... and one or more of those parts can get something wrong with it and the old dyna wont work right.... but they are mighty tough and do not tear up very often... or very easy....:Brow: :Brow:
Oh I know, I took a peak into the converter that came with the spare trans. It's interesting stuff for sure. Buick had some crazy things going on back then. I wasn't planning on tearing into the converter at all, just swapping the assembly as a whole. From what I understand that should be do-able and won't screw anything up.
That is the ''triple turbine'' system that buick used back then... and believe it or not I once had a 57 chevy with a 283 that used a dyna flo in it... it never shifts just changes ''fazes'' and that you never feel....it is the grand father to the switch pitch trans.... that is, where the basic idea came from....
Hi Andy, I hope this clears up some confusion. The Dynaflow converter must be disassembled to remove it, it does NOT slide out like other transmissions. Because all of the torque multiplication is done in the converter, it is very complex. Also, a major reason for the front seal failing is that the pump bushing is worn out and should be replaced too. Dacco Detroit in St Paul can source an overhaul kit and both bands for about $350.00. Tim
Hmm, interesting. I pulled the converter from the spare trans without disassembling it, although I think the front cover was removed. Like I said I'll have to study up with my chassis manual. The whole trans removal/rebuilt process is covered pretty good. And I actually have a spare trans all ready and waiting to get dropped it. It's been gone through and resealed, so I should be set, hopefully.
