That sounds about right. I'm assuming 'tuned' in this case isn't tuned for this combo I used 1-7/8 to 2" tuned to my head #'s and power goals for a 690hp 406, but it was kept intentionally small to assist velocity and overlap breathing. Electrolysis with a battery charger will remove the rust.
One blast down the 1/4 mile will take care of that rust lol One other thing. If your suspension system is weak, and I mean springs and shocks, you will bottom out headers on the street if you happen to hit a dip in the road. Mine were all dented on the bottom till I upgraded the suspension system. If you can find a used pair buy them. Not hard to install you just have to get the car up with 4 big jack stands or on ramps and you can get them on.
Thanks for all the info! I'll probably get the manifolds cleaned up along with all the gross valvecovers.
I called about them about a month ago. The guy is an a$$hole. He still has them but "make offer" means anything over $650.
That guys whole business is parting out cars at premium prices. He has specific hours to contact him also.
I would expect anyone adapting a set of donor headers wouldn't set the lower half so low as to bottom out.
just caught up to this thread and have to reply to mis-info. where do people get this bogus info for 350 buicks....... once you start doing more h/p improvements the 1 3/4 will help the 350 a lot. I have even been to 2 1/4 on our Skyhawk chassis car. I know header extensions don't work. they tend to lose et. if you are going to a s/p and heads are ported, the bigger headers will be your friend. been there, done that.
I have 1 3/4 headers we are talking a 350, different motor. Has anyone else tested anything on a 350 motor. Just like the SP3 has anyone here tested that. Its been out for a year now You don't have to have Alum heads
Yeah, different engine with 56 or for the .030" over sbb 350 crowd, 51 less cubic inches of spent gasses being expelled. Doesn't matter what engine it is with close to the same power, air and fuel in = what comes out. And guess what, less cubes uses less air so less spent gasses leave the exhaust for an engine with less power. To say that just because the engine is a sbb 350 the exhaust system has different needs from a different brand engine with the same cubes that makes close to the same power is more than likely wrong. We're not talking about the sbb dual plane intake tract and carb size, that's a different story. When you're at the performance level gsjohnny is with a forced air with a supercharged sbb 350, then the exhaust needs would be increased. Also, if the engine is setup with aftermarket rods to spin more than 6,000 RPM that a factory rod can NOT handle is also a good time to step up to 1 3/4" exhaust(which by the way gsjohnny's sbb 350 had nascar take out rods in it to handle more RPM)
Did you read his post he did not have that SC then. Then you explain to me why my engine spun to 6400 easily with the 510 cam. Sean just told us earlier like last year he spun his Stock motor to 7 grand with the Turbo Go read his posts. It is still together I have a lot better rods than his motor and it is balanced. why did you not call him out on it if it can't be done to 7 grand.
always had hookers. skyhawk chassis car; 7500 rpm using s/p; stock rods, hyper pistons. engine hit 10k just before i hit the wall at the valley. only smoked the rod bearings. engine has been in a 77 skylark, 73 century, skyhawk chassis car and now in a dragster. thats 12 yrs of abuse. if anybody thinks i make this stuff up, come to some of the north east meets and talk to anybody. i'm not a keyboard racer............
Remembering your posts about the engine that spun 7,500 and 10,000 RPM you have always said it was with the nascar take out rods with the Honda rod bearing size of 1.889" with the factory stroke and 283 sbc pistons. IIRC, weren't those forged NOS standard diameter(3.875") pistons? He didn't say in that post if he did or didn't have the SC yet. I didn't suggest that a sbb 350 couldn't spin more than 6,000 RPM, I suggested that with the factory cast iron rods its not a good idea to go past 6,000 RPM with them. IIRC I think Sean said he spun that engine to 8,000 RPM wasn't it? Anyway , that was on a chassis dyno with a turbo charged engine. A turbo has a cushioning effect from the back pressure created by spinning the turbo, so the engine is pressurized on both the intake and exhaust side making it easier on parts than a N/A engine or one running a belt driven SC. If you think the factory rods are good to go 7,500 + RPM in an N/A engine, prove me wrong. With the S/P intake you have now you could install a solid flat tappet cam that comes alive at 3,000 + RPM and makes power to 7,500 + RPM and see how long the rods hold up. With an engine setup to run the mentioned RPM the 1 3/4" primary tube headers would be the better choice. A small block engine setup to run 6,500 RPM or lower pretty much all it needs is the 1 5/8" primary tube headers unless its bigger than 425 cubes.
