I want headers for the 350, but as I VERY quickly noticed, they cost a fortune. I got to thinking, other motors like the SBC have headers that are relatively inexpensive. So... What if I got SBC headers that fit another A Body car and put SBB exhaust manifold flanges on them? I know TA Perf. Makes flange kits, but I could even try and use the ones off the stock SBB manifolds. What is your guys's input on this? Anyone done this before? Thanks for looking.
Link to headers I was looking at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1989-S...ash=item1e9ce07da1:g:Wl0AAOSwo4pYI9Wm&vxp=mtr
They don't fit. The angle of the head port is different. You would need to tighten all the down turns and raise the front to pass engine mount . Already tryed getting Buick flanges on a Chevy header. Not to mention Chevy headers are as smal as 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 . Buick 350 headers are more commonly 1 3/4.
They sell 1 3/4" sbc headers for most applications, 1 3/4" are to big for a sbb anyway. 1 5/8" would be just fine for most N/A NON-stroker sbb builds. 1 1/2" headers are more than enough for the 300/340 builds as well because of how crappy those heads flow. I haven't tried making sbc headers fit on a sbb though but if the flange angle is wrong, cut the sbc flange off at the proper angle for the new flange. As far as "raise the front" goes, not sure I understand what you're saying there? Are you saying the forward tubes are to long and interfere with the motor mounts? If so a little creative cut and welding or some smash and dent out of the way should make them fit. Someone posted a video of HRM did that started out dynoing an engine with not smashed headers and redynoed it after smashing the headers more and more and the engine barely lost any power! So how much interference is there in that area? They sell mandrel bent tubing with different bends to make your own clearance around different obstacles. But by the time that is done to sbc headers it could bring the cost up to the all ready made sbb headers? Another option would be to put an ad in the parts wanted section, maybe someone has a used set they want to sell for less than the new price? Derek
If you look at the front header pipe on the Chevy. It drops under the rest of the pipes. This pipe hits the engine mounts . You would need a tight bend to get away from the upper a arm then you need it bend back to pass frame and engine mount. Then down and out.
Be aware that used headers that have rust scale on the inside can totally negate any power gain you where looking for! I have taken part in dyno test where a 600 hp motor lost 60 hp from such!
I've both made from scratch and adapted too many to keep track of. Even if you use the collector and bottom portion you could be way ahead of the game if you don't mind the time. Now's the opportunity to play with longer primary tubes and things like 180* pairings, if so desired. You would likely end up with a way better header than what's commercially available anyways. It's necessary even with 'common' chevy applications such as when using a spread port head or anything 2" or bigger primary to re-route a few of the tubes entirely to get around the chassis' obstacles (The 440 Mopar up-and-over tactic with the front cylinder gets used a lot). I sometimes use a donor header to simply save time in making a collector assembly, esp. when there's a labor budget limitation. A generic F body BBC header easily becomes a Cadillac 472-500 or 600-700 hp sbc donor with a few U bends and a flange made up.
I think that part of the header is what's goofed the most from Buick to chevy as well as the least effective type of header. The short tubes attempt to assist the scavenge in an rpm range well past the hp peak. The longer the tubes, the lower the rpm the scavenge is. Typical 'long tube' headers math out closer to the torque part of the curve, to aid 'shift recovery' and may only add 10-15 hp up top.
If you can find some that the front pipe goes up like these then possibly. You would need to get the bends tight to block still. A-arm and steering shafts are the big problem then. http://m.ebay.com/itm/88-97-CHEVY-G...AUST-HEADER-/150774070295?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
You will have to bite the bullet and buy the Buick headers either from TA or Hooker headers from Summit. Chevy headers will not work or fit unless you know how to fabricate. Headers by Ed will work but there again you have to make your own. The heads on a Buick are on a different angle than a Chevy. You could just buy a Chebby.
Ive seen this ad many times on Craigslist he has a pair of ceramic coated for a Buick 350 original cost was 740 and he has make an offer I think the last time he had them for like 450 bucks.it maybe just otta your price range I dunno, just putting them out there. Josh https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/d/buick-skylark-350-headers/6222671614.html
I remember seeing this ad not too long ago, then one day I didn't. I figured he'd sold them. Turns out if you filter the results by price, the ads without prices are not shown.
There's other things that will increase performance other then headers . Have you looked into anything else?
Sometimes, instead of 'adding' power with add-ons, you can remove or improve things that are taking away power in the first place. There are some other exhaust tricks that can be used to aid in exhaust evacuation technique; they won't be as effective as headers, but then there are other areas that you could pick up more overall vehicle performance than headers would give anyway. Having said all this (as well as suggestions above by others), have you considered the overall utter pain in the arsch headers actually are? Unless of course you own a shop or have a lift in your 10 bay mansion garage... Not just fabrication, assembly, implementation, and engine bay clearance, but in maintenance, ground clearance, etc.? Much of which would be fine if the car was your umpteenth toy that you didn't drive but maybe a few times a month and only in the fair weather months of the year, but not so much if you intend on driving the car on a more regular basis. Sorry bro, headers are awesome for performance, but suck in every single other aspect.
Not really. I figured exhaust would be a good place to start. Also the stock exhaust manifolds aren't the most aesthetically pleasing either. Any tips and info would be appreciated. Also what does N-25 mean?
Bigger isn't always better. I dyno'd my 406 (440hp/506ft.lbs.) with 1 5/8" headers, then just for giggles we tried a pair of super tuned 1 3/4" headers and only gained 5hp at peak but there were no torque gains. For the street, the smaller tubes are a better choice.
Look at the bumper on this Buick. The rectangular ports at the lower sections has the exhaust tips come thru it . That's an N25 bumper. There's a guy named rusty Davenport that can duplicate the cutout in bumper for those tips. But no hp gains. A timing recurve and extra advance can show some improvement in power. No exhaust manifolds are not pretty. You can take them off and use hi heat por15 or other hi temp coating. . TA performance has 2.5 down pipes for manifolds. I would go with an H or X crossover system after downpipes. A 2400 small block rated torque converter and a 3 series rear gear will improve the feeling of your engines performance. Then you can decide if you want to go inside engine for better performance
When you consider that Buick exhaust manifolds are pretty much free (they came with your car) and can be made to look good with some cleanup and hi-temp paint or ceramic coating, the fact that they can be trued up with the heads so that NO gaskets are even needed, torqued down and forgotten about, with zero maintenance, maximum engine bay and ground clearance, are better than many if not most other manifold designs, with merge pipes on a dual or large single system to create maximum draw on them, and are probably the most durable and longest lasting component on your car, they are actually quite beautiful.
