Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 71rivera, Jul 31, 2020.
I will dig through my order sheet and see which ones I have just out of curiosity.
I checked the order sheet and looked that number up on the TA website. It says forged H-beam, shot peened, "direct replacement" but does not say a brand name.
OK, so it could be a 464.
Think they are like $599 iirc few $ less than the drop in Molnars
Didnt know eagle had rods for us either.
Peak HP at 5300 with Stage 2 heads?? Either tiny cam or needs more than that 750 Holley.
Gabe, did they give you enough time or dyno runs for tuning?
Should peak HP be at a higher RPM? I didn't know what a good redline would be for a motor like this and it kind of seemed to fall off at 5300 so we didn't go any further.
This was through the shorty headers and collectors that I figure I would have to run in a 72' Riviera, so I don't know if that would limit it any?
As far as carb size, the highest SCFM on the dyno sheet was 569. if the carb can do 750 would that mean I had a large enough carb?
For tuning all we did was set floats, adjust the carb and played with timing. I think we did 6 or 7 pulls...
I'm pretty green as far as tuning, cam choice etc.. Totally open to ideas for more torque!
these are the cam specs off the TA site.
STOCK 1.55 RATIO:
TA ROLLERS 1.60 RATIO:
LOBE CENTER: 114
POWER RANGE: 2000-6000
That's a fairly small cam.......there more than likely more power to ve gained from the heads with s bigger cam
Looks good Gabe..
Eagle Built rods for the 455 Buick in about 2015 or so, TA bought out the entire run of them, that is why they are not listed in the eagle catalog. Stock length deals, so yes, it is a 464..
Guys, this is a street motor, with totally unported heads assembled and prepped by TA.. and it made about the numbers I had figured it would, after I looked at the heads. You have to work the bowels and chambers and the short turns on these heads, to make 500HP with that cam.. I have built and dyno'ed at least a dozen or so copies like it.. if he had an A body, and was going racing, I would have suggested it. But he was building a Riv to cruise in.
Not at thing wrong with this motor for his 72 Riv, and his intended use.
Good low speed torque will be the key to how it "feels" in the car. I think I figured it would make 540/475, so the guess was pretty close.
The guy at the dyno was impressed with the craftsmanship and attention to detail.
said he figured this would make the Riv a tire burner.
A few tweaks to the car and I hope to have it on the road yet this fall!
Can't argue with that. Tons of torque with the big car and probably highway gears. That dyno sheet looks like it would with "smaller" cam and good heads. The power comes on big and fast and then levels off and barely drops a few numbers by 5500 and will probably pull even farther than that. The good heads stretch that power band way out.
No doubt, it wasn't built built to make ever hp. The numvers are great given the parts in there.........with that cam it wi gave tons of street manors and be fun to drive
Is that Holley carb a double pumper or vacuum secondary? Vacuum secondary will work better in the car for your application, but I don't like them on the dyno. What is the cam degreed to? (Intake centerline). might be able to advance the cam for some more bottom torque. In my opinion that cam could even be smaller in duration numbers, make more torque and yes lose a few peak hp numbers. Everybody looks at peak hp for bragging rights, average numbers are more important, and remember torque does all the work and horsepower gets the credit! What gears are in that car? Hopefully at least a 3.42!
Nice numbers, but the fuel curve is starting to get a little fat above 4500 rpm, especially considering that the air your motor sucks in from under the hood is going to be a good amount hotter then what it was drawing in on the dyno!
I would think about changing out the high speed air bleed jet on your Carbs secondary side to get those BSFC numbers a tad better, or getting in moded to take screw in bleed jets if it's not so equipped so now.
It is a double pumper. I guess that would be easy enough to change in the car if I can't get the performance where I'd like.
Not sure how Tri-Shield degreed the cam.
Tri-shield is also building a rear end for me, so I will be using a stock open rear until that is done, or a welded type "O" 12 bolt that I have on hand.
I'd rather give up some top end with gearing and have more low-end grunt.
The 73' is the highway cruiser, so this one can be more of a light to light put a smile on your face smoke show type car.
I plan on putting everything in the 72' as a test vehicle, then swapping it all over to the 71' when I get the bodywork done on it. I could swap the cam easy enough at that point if needed.
Thanks for all the input guys!