Headed to the Dyno for the first time!

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 71rivera, Jul 31, 2020.

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  1. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Any suggestions on what to do to prepare for a trip to the engine dyno?
    I fired it up on the test stand to check for leaks....
    Do I need motor mounts installed or do they bolt to the block?
    I assume they have an assortment of fittings etc. For fuel connections, oil psi and water temp?
    Looking to be as prepared as possible.
    Thanks!
     
  2. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    Do they have headers for the Buick or are you supplying them?
     
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  3. 73 Stage-1

    73 Stage-1 Dave

    +1 on the headers... as for the rest, it'll be worth asking the shop as each one is different.

    When I dyno'ed my 460 Ford I had to source headers, as the ones I have in the car wouldn't fit around their dyno (they cross over under the oil pan), and the shop didn't have anything close in size and length. The dyno had a MSD ignition system we hooked to my distributor and lines for the carb and oil pressure. Water temp was done through their cooling system.

    Good luck!
     
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  4. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    If you have done a bunch of power up grades on the build I would bring along a set of one step colder plugs then what you broke the motor in on and in terms of Headers you for sure want to dyno the motor with the ones you will run in the car if they clear the dyno.

    I have seen a 20 hp drop from the dyno headers the motor was tested with and the ones the car had to run!
    This is enough of a difference especially when the motor was home and breathing thru the cars full Exh system to have it run too fat above 4000 rpm at full throttle as seen by O2 sensors fitted in the headers the car was running.
     
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  5. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    Weld a bung for the O2 sensor in the collector of one of your headers.
     
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  6. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    I do have a set of headers that I will be running in the car.
    Is there a certain spot in the collector that the bung should be welded?
    Is there any benefit to putting one in both sides?
    Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate the advice!
     
  7. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Also curious, what is the thought behind having the cooler plugs along?
    I will pick up a set. Thanks!
     
  8. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    IMG_0182.JPG IMG_0183.JPG IMG_0182.JPG IMG_0183.JPG IMG_0184.JPG Info on plug heat range.
     
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  9. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Wow! lots of info there. Thanks
     
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  10. Scrappy

    Scrappy Well-Known Member

    Best to call the 'dyno guy' and ask what you'll need. May need a starter, and some dyno's use their own starter, do you require a manual flywheel? Headers, motor mounts. Maybe spare header gaskets. Make sure thermostat is not installed! Do you have electric water pump? If not, will need to loop a belt from water pump to crank, unless of course the alternator and bracket will be used.
     
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  11. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks, I did end up calling the guy and he said the dyno has the starter built in, he is good with the flex plate I have, I would have to bring headers, (hoping shorties fit this dyno), bringing motor mounts, gas, and have a belt on to run the mechanical water pump.
    I will check to make sure the thermostat is not installed.
    hoping the extra plugs etc. I ordered show up before I have to head out.
     
  12. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Well, everything went great at the dyno.
    I had the shorty headers that I will be running in the car and they were able to adapt to those. That was the only mild issue.
    A few adjustments on the carb, played with timing a bit.
    Randy at Dakota Engine Builders was GREAT! Took the time to double and triple check things, explained the how and why of what he was doing, didn't mind me peering over his shoulder the entire time. 20200807_172637.jpg
     
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  13. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Thank you guys for all the help and advice!
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Those are nice numbers. This might be more interesting if you list the details of your build. I did a quick check of your previous posts, but I didn't see anything.
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Nice low rpm torque will be a tire burner
     
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  16. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Good call Larry, here are a few specs and I copied and pasted the inventory list.
    4.35 bore, 3.9 stroke, 463.686 ci total displacement. 10.5:1 compression
    parts from TA Performance: Assembled by JW at Tri-Shield Performance

    1327 Valve covers- drilled and detailed
    1331 Valve cover grommet
    1335B oil cap
    1434 valve locks
    valve cover bolts- black
    1516 Rear Seal
    1405 Hyd lifters- flat tappet
    1334 K/N breather
    1706 gasket set-260-1150 Fel Pro
    284-88H camshaft
    1531B assembly- Timing cover/ oil pump
    1537 water pump- long
    1435 valve springs
    R9798-.035 Piston Rings- Total seal
    1120 Main Studs
    1524 Rollmaster timing chain
    1611B Pistons- JE
    TA Stage 2 SE heads, serial 6330916- complete, no porting
    1323A rocker studs
    1423-9350 pushrods
    1312 Roller rockers- 1.6 ratio
    1712-062 Intake gasket
    1723C Head gaskets for Stage 2 heads (orange crush)
    1239 Intake end seals
    1645 ARP rod bolts
    1738-455 valley shield
    1559A-Teflon cam bearings
    1518B Frost plugs- brass
    1401 Bronze distributor gear- MSD
    288-94H cam- flat tappet
    1114-455 bolt kit- stainless
    1136 head bolts Stage 2
    1633D Connecting rods- Eagle, stock spec
    1500A dipstick tube kit

    Non TA parts:
    Buick 455 Crankshaft- 2
    Buick 455 Engine block
    serial number 42H448522
    Year 1972
    Casting number 12388661
    Date Code M 22 (Dec 22 1971)

    45-224 Holley Electric choke kit
    4779-C 750 Holley- 4150 mechanical secondary
    MSD 8222 blaster 2 coil
    MSD 6215 6AL ignition box
    MSD 5551 Street Fire plug wire kit
    MSD 8517 Billet Distributor
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Two questions, one, which cam did you use? You list two cams, 284-88H, and 288-94H. Second, if you used Eagle rods, then the stroke is 3.95 and you have a 470.
     
  18. 71rivera

    71rivera Platinum Level Contributor

    Looks like he used the 288-94H since I still have the other one on the shelf.
    I got the stroke off a spec sheet that Jim sent with the motor, he always referenced a 462 when he was building it...
    I know the crank was just cleaned up, but just ordered the rods from TA at the advice of another board member and one of the guys at TA.
     
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    4.350 bore is .038 over. The Eagle rods are BBC rods which necessitates an offset grind of the rod pin down to 2.20 from 2.25, and that gives you a stroke increase of .05. That = 470 CID. Just the .038 over gets you to 464. Check with Jim. I'm just going by what you have listed. AFAIK, Eagle doesn't make a drop in Buick Rod.
     
  20. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    They do now,..they were actually available not long after the drop in Molnars
     

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