Got my block back....now what? It gets built!

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by StfSocal, Jun 21, 2019.

  1. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Hey all,

    So a little while ago I was wrestling with deciding if I wanted to do the cam bearings myself, or take it in. I was in the process of getting ARP bolts installed on my stock connecting rods and figured I would ask the machine shop what R&I of cam bearings would be. They indicated that they would do it for $60. Way cheaper than getting a tool and possibly screwing up lol. So I ordered new bearings from TA (dual groove & hardened) and had them installed. Shop followed the supplied instructions to the tee and they appear to be in there correctly (3 and 7 oclock from front of block). I also had the block hot tanked while it was there.

    So I've got the block back in my garage bagged up while I work on getting some other things done on my Buick. I wrote down a list of steps to do to build the engine with number one being get everything back from shop. Scratch that off. Next is to clean the block properly for final assembly. This is where my question comes in, does my process seem to be correct:
    - Wash block with hot water and dish soap.
    - Use gun cleaning brushes to clean out oil passages.
    - Blow block off and oil passages out with compressed air.
    - Soak a lint free towel in some 10w30 and wipe all cylinder walls, cam bearings, and mains.

    The from oil galley cup plugs are in the block still, should I pop these out and ensure it is fully cleaned out? Or will any water drain out with the compressed air? I am thinking of staying way from brake cleaner and the like, as I feel it could lead to flash rust on critical surfaces. Thoughts?

    Thanks all,

    Scott
     
    Donuts & Peelouts likes this.
  2. Daves69

    Daves69 Too many cars too work on

  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    That final wash should had been done b4 cam bearings going in, so they hot tanked your motor with the oil plugs still in???? Normally not done that way either
     
    Donuts & Peelouts likes this.
  4. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Thanks Dave!

    Block is a 73 so luckily some of the mods are a moot point. Also some of the mods were done prior to me getting the engine (long story). Although I was wondering how important it would be to use screw in plugs for the front of the oil galleys versus new cup plugs. I am going to be getting the TA timing cover when I get to that point so not sure if the PSI is going to be high enough to worry. Since the cam bearings are in there I am worried about taping out those holes for the screw plugs. Last thing I want is metal getting down into the back side of the cam bearings.
     
  5. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Ben,

    It was hot tanked and then cam bearings installed. Cup plugs in the front of oil passages were in when I dropped it off and they are in now. Rear plugs were and are not in the block. The block is clean minus the wd40 for rust prevention. My plan was to re-clean to ensure I am good, then start assembly. Otherwise, I was thinking I would only clean out the cylinder bores, all mains, & wiping down the cam bearings.
     
  6. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    "I" use ATF instead of engine oil, but that's a small matter.

    Don't forget to lube the lifter bores. All machined surfaces get something for rust prevention. Gasket surfaces, and main saddles will get cleaned-off again before gaskets and bearings are installed--no lube on the backs of the main or rod bearings.
     
  7. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Make sure the back of the bearings and saddles are VERY clean the smallest particle will transfer all the way thru the bearing and into the journal
     
  8. k.pascoe

    k.pascoe 73 Century Gran Sport 455

    Remember WD 40 is a penetrate and water -displacing. Not a preservative. or really a lube. It's really good for cleaning the bores, but your block will rust if you only use it. Also only use paper towels cleaning , building the block or any internal engine component.
     
  9. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Thanks all,

    Definitely going to with it down with motor oil to preserve the machined surfaces. At this point do you all agree that power-washing the block with hot soapy water and blowing it off is overkill?

    Aren't paper towels a little abrasive?

    Regards,

    Scott
     
  10. k.pascoe

    k.pascoe 73 Century Gran Sport 455

    When your ready to build, go out and buy one of those 12 roll packages. A good paper towel isn't abrasive enough to do any damage to any surface of the engine or bearings. Cloth fibers inside a engine is a no no.
    Wash, scrub it, blow all dry and clean when your ready to build.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2019
  11. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I get presoaked alchohol wipes from a fella that comes by, they are used in hospitals absolutely Linton and fiber free and will clean like crazy,..they are super cheap and all around good to have around
     
  12. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Kingfish likes this.

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