Nice work! I'll be real interested in the driving results and gas mileage. Thanks for posting your thoughts and process. Now if the engine only had Variable Valve Train. Paul
Have you started the engine in sequential mode yet? If so does the ECM see the cam sync signal from the modified distributor? Paul
Excuse me for jumping in here,but I've gone through this thread a little but, skimming over the stuff that I didn't quite follow, and was curious with this mega squirt setup about how much you have invested with the electronics and associated hardware (rails, injectors, etc). The discussion about controlling more than 8 injectors was investing too. I've watched most of the vids that Tom Nelson has on his turbo motors and he now uses 16 injectors. 8 for pump gas and the other 8 referencing boost to supply race gas. As a side note, when I saw the first screenshot of the tuner studio software it looked a little familiar so I went to the site to check it out. Yep, written in the same language as I use in my day job Oh, and I just smiled at the programmers ego comment. I've met and worked with quite a few in my day and in my experience those that are that way are capable but not overly talented. Unfortunately the field is full of really bad developers and makes the rest of us look bad. Sorry for the tangent...
Oh, I guess I didn't say it specifically, but I did fired it up on the sequential before I made my first post here today :TU: So it appears to be working. I went and made a change to the table and it quieted up the exhaust note a bit. Makes me want to see if I advance the ignition if it get's quieter p I need a bigger cam. .512" 298*Adv 232* @ .050" 110LSA It's supposed to have a "heavy lump" idle I made this video real quick. I just got this camera and the auto-focus was turned off and the screen is real blurry, so I'm going to make a new video tomorrow after work, but for now this will work. The exhaust is quiet, but the video makes it sound a bit quieter than it is. [video=youtube;4TrtvS18X_8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TrtvS18X_8[/video] It was around $750 for the TA SPX intake and fuel rails, the megasquirt was around $350 when I bought it, but prices have gone up since 2008. I got all my ECU, wiring stuff and LC-1 WBO2 from DIYautotune.com. Throttlebody is a generic Edelbrock 1,000cfm one with IAC and TPS, and the an aeromotive EFI fuel pressure regulator and injectors (32lb/hr then 44lb/hr after some upgrades) from summitracing. Intake and coolant sensors from the junkyard, along with the pig tails for the injectors. My first fuel pump I ran for almost three years was from the junkyard of a late 80's Ford trunk, the new one was $110 from NAPA. For the sequential injection I modified a Ford Escort trigger wheel from the junkyard to fit a Buick crank pulley and use a $20 sensor to read it and a odd fire 231 V6 HEI distributor with all the teeth except one on the pickup coil and reluctor ground off. I did the setup in 2008, there have been some inflationary costs so I'll let you check into those and what sources you want to use.
Seem to remember someone saying somthing about the remaining point stubs possibly causing a false signal. LOL But also remember you saying it can be fixed in the firmware. Glad to see the single pole was sufficient enough to make a signal. Good to know I don't know how you could get the sync pulse on the wrong side of TDC if you were turning the crank clockwise during setup, but it would be strange to have a graph reading right to left also. Keep us posted. Thanks again for posting your progress. This is great stuff! Paul
I seem to remember some one saying that too? If only we could remember who. Oh well it's in the past now and we'll never know :laugh: Yup, successfully tuned out. Funny thing is, my go-to guy for the EFI stuff and I were talking last night after I did all this, and the first thing he said is "You must have a spark plug wire going or something creating noise." and I reminded him that this was pretty far from precision engineering, I took a die-grinder to the teeth and they aren't all exactly the same distance away, LOL, and as the pickup coil starts generating higher voltages I'm sure some of those stubs are warping the electric field. But, just tune them out and call it good :TU: I'm off work tomorrow, I'll physically check the missing tooth and cam sensor relationship again by lining up the rotor with #1, back the engine to the missing tooth (~70*), observe where the pickup coil is, and then move it before the reluctor tooth if it's on the wrong side of the reluctor tooth.
