Compresser kicks in and runs a couple minutes then shuts down. I had it changed over from R 12 in May 2017 to R 134 a complete clean out and refilled with oil and the 134. Been working fine till a week ago and though the fron was maybe getting low but the compresser was running fine it seemed. It was only in the low 70F range then but today it was 82F drove about 4 miles round trip back home. The question is if the freon is low will that cause the compresser to run and shut off to protect the system? Or Am I looking at a bad compresser/compresser clutch? Al
What compressor is in it? Some AC compressors will cycle on and off as normal operation, but will short cycle or not cycle at all if low on refrigerant.
Looks like this one. Yes I know they will cycle but ever couple of minutes is to quick I do know that. Al
Exactly . System should cycle . There is a Pressure switch and a temp switch that has a Tube going to the evaporator . The pressure swich can be jumped to kick the compressor on. Best thing is to hook up a set of gauges and see what you have. Probably Low on Freon
Thats the R4 compressor. From what you say it appears to be low on Freon and there is not enough pressure to at the switch to kick the compresson on
I went out and took a picture of the compresser nose and other shots too. I'll make an appointment Monday and get it in for a charge. You just told me what I though might be going on with the system. Thanks. Al
I would just put a can of 134 into it. Any NAPA store will have the can and hose for less than $25 . If it gets better than it is and you feel it should be colder throw a second can at it . You say you changed it over like 2 years ago so I assume it has lost some over those 2 years . Possibly leaks from the adapter fittings.
My local NAPA sells 12 or 14 OZ cans for like $4 or $5 . Dollar General sells the cans too . As do other discount stores . The hose is like $15 . Those 18 oz ones are those complete kits with the guage that shows everything is fine after you put it in . I'm not even sure is actually 134 . If your system was done 2 years ago completely I would say you might just have to add 2 of the 12 OZ cans at the most . On a 12 system that has been converted to 134 I would expect it to lose some over time. 134 is more likely to leak out smaller areas than 12 .
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...g+Charging+Hose&keywordInput=ac+recharge+hose Here's a deluxe model from NAPA . I'm sure they have ones with out the guage as I just bought 1 last week . They also sell the single cans . I get a shop discount but I think the cans were $3.50 and the hose was like $12 . They are pretty Helpful and will show you what to do .
Well that didn't help at all. I suppose it is a pressure switch problem. I have a service manual for a 1985 Old's will read thru that I guess. should be simular being GM. Al
Al are you saying it helped ???? Or didn't help ??? You can jump that pressure switch . Its on the silver can at the evaporator . Just unplug it and put a jumper wire to connect the 2 prongs in the plug . Compressor should kick in .
It didn't help the gauge for the freon was in the green from the get go. The compresser kicks in for maybe 2 minutes I haven't timed it. Then if kicks off for about the same amount of time. Car isn't getting cool although I can feel a little cooler air comeing out of the vents. I am just not up on AC stuff. Can a pressure switch bechanged out with out removeing the current charge of freon? The new shop opens at 8:00 so plan on giving them a call and see when they can look at it. I say new shop because the one the car had been taken to by the PO and my self where there was some thing the PO or I didn't want to do or couldn't told me last spring not to bring the OLD car back when I took it there to have an exhust donut installed. They will only work on cars with OBDII set ups. Shame because I really liked them. Al
Well turned out the can of freon Ogot was bad or some thing. I took it to the new shop and am very happy with them. showed me their gauges which said it was low on charge. they recharged it with a leak detection dye charge and told me to being it back be for I put it up for the winter and they will check it out. Funny the change from R 12 to 134a was June 2017. Al
If the desiccant sack in the filter drier was compromised with oil, that can lead to flow issues as well... ws
If car has pressure switch, you need to change it to run on 134-a as it runs on lower pressures than r-12. some of the switches are adjustable, if you look between the terminals and there is a small screw it can be adjusted. You want 24-26 lbs with 134a instead of 29 lbs for r12
