GM 2500 Trailer Hitch

Discussion in 'The Choo-Choo shop' started by Greg Gessler, Nov 16, 2007.

  1. Greg Gessler

    Greg Gessler GS Stage1

    I have a 2006 2500 Crewcab with tow package. The factory trailer hitch looks puny.... Has anyone run into issues with the factory hitch and or replaced it with a heavier unit?
     
  2. BUICK528

    BUICK528 Big Red

    I have a 2006 2500HD 4x4 CC Dmax shorty

    I saw a couple hitches crack, and one broke completely..

    I bought a Putnam XDR 15k/16k hitch, part # 25182 for the short bed

    it was less than $300 installed

    you have to weld your old wiring support bracket onto the new hitch, but that's no biggie

    my BIGGEST concern was I thought the hardware supplied was kinda cheapo, so I replaced it with better quality fasteners

    my boat/trailer combo weighs right at 12,000# so my doing it was a no-brainer

    glad I did
     
  3. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    Yes. They are decent hitches but not rated for the actual capacity of the truck. Something many people dont know. Yes your 2500 can tow 12K pounds (maybe more or less) but not everything is properly equipped. Get at least a class four if not five hitch if your serious. I like the Drawtite TOW BEAST. The price is reasonable too, I think I sold my last one at $299. I've installed a couple. One on a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 4x4 dually. The old hitch was completely broken in two, 10K lbs and poor distribution of weight.

    Also realize if you step up to a class five, which you should if you towing more than 10K without a weight distribution setup you will need to buy new bars and balls. The receiver is 2" 1/4 instead of 2". Hope this helps. :bglasses:
     
  4. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    It depends on what you're towing and how far/how fast you're towing it.:laugh: I tow a 6klb boat at 80, but it gets a little scary over that. Long distance, too(70 miles each way...12 times a year). Mine's just an extended cab, though, may handle a bit different w/a crew cab. If your towing over 10k, get a weight dist package and a class V hitch. Tongue weight makes a huge diff, btw. If your tongue weight is maxxed out, get the bigger hitch. Ideally, the less tongue weight the better, but no less than 100, 150 lbs. What're you towing, btw?
     
  5. Greg Gessler

    Greg Gessler GS Stage1

    I just picked up a 24' enclosed trailer, that will be filled with tools and my GS.
     
  6. 1972 Stage 1

    1972 Stage 1 Well-Known Member

    Greg,

    I have an 2006 GMC Duramax with tow package, and have been hauling a 24' enclosed trailer full of tools, parts, luggage, and a 4000 lb. car, and have not had any trouble. My trailer has a Reese weight distribution kit, but if the factory hitches have cracked or broken, I guess I need to consider getting a new hitch. Does anyone know if all the factory hitches are the same?
     
  7. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    My 02 duramax crew long box has the original 2" reciever hitch from the factory, I've got over 200,000 kms and its seen snow, salt, rust and I've hauled many trailers, Horses, Hyd dump full of rock, pintle hitch trailers with skid steers, lifts of lumber, 24' car hauler with vehicles, motorcycles, snowmobiles, tools etc.
    I think the rule of thumb is 10% of the total weight on the hitch? You shouldn't have a problem with the factory truck hitch at all. The hitch will have a rating on the wieght it will pull or carry and the safety factor is probably 4 to 1. Go ahead and and tow your trailer with no worries....
     
  8. TexasT

    TexasT Texas, where are you from

    Also be sure to look into some type of sway control to go with the weight distribution setup. I use a cam type and really like it. I think it is the Reese stuff like this but the older design.

    http://www.etrailer.com/pc-WD~66074.htm
     
  9. 70 gsconvt

    70 gsconvt Silver Level contributor

    I've got a 2005 2500HD crew cab, long bed, with duramax engine and Allison trans. I use the factory hitch to tow my 31' camper, which weighs just over 9,300 lbs. loaded with all the stuff. Been on trips as long as 4 weeks with the back of the bed loaded down with bikes, wood, etc. No problems here.

    One thing I would recommend as stated above is a sway control setup like Reese has. It's called a dual cam and is absolutely one of the best ways to tow. Even my wife drove the rig through a rain storm with 30 mph winds at night and said she never noticed the camper swaying or pulling her around the road. I love it. Here's a pic of what I have.

    http://hitchsales.com/Merchant2/mer..._Code=66074&Category_Code=313&Product_Count=2
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2009
  10. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member



    I put 14000 pounds (on the ball of my car hauler trailer only) behind my 07 1500 (rated at 10500), and towed it across town one time. I made it, but it was a little scary. There was no damage, however.
     
  11. RIVI1379

    RIVI1379 Well-Known Member

    greg I've towed a 24 foot enclosed trailer with a 68 Riviera from philadelphia to Omaha, ne and back and all over the place with that trailer, even with tools like you say I can't see it being a problem. Between towing responsibly and having some sway contol/load equalizing I don't you would have trouble. However bigger is better sometimes...matter of opinion I think.
     
  12. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    w/A 24 footer, tools and a car, weight dist would be advisable, also consider an inertia brake as opposed to the elctric set-up, I've found them to work more consistently, especially when the load shifts. carring a car is diff than carrying cargo, that car in the back is also shifting and transferring weight when you corner/stop/turn, and then rebounding on its suspension, placing more strain on the hitch than a static load would. Regardless, sounds like you will be close to the 7klb mark depending on amount od tools, tires, fuel and such, and with a shifting load, weight distribution will help control alot.
     

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