New Problem Got the 1/8" to 1/4" adapter for the Oil Pressure Sender and the sending unit is just hitting the engine block by oh so little. Can I try to extend it away from the block with either a second reducer or will that hurt the performance of the sender itself???? Just thinking out loud......
If you look at both holes in the intake, one is a bit deeper than the other. What I did was just swap the stock sender to the other side and used the deeper one for my gauge sender.
Would this work if it's thinner? https://www.ebay.com/itm/ISSPRO-R89...488036?hash=item467b4f0964:g:WJcAAOSwKApa4AWl
Larry, This is for the Oil Pressure sender, I am all good on the Water Temp! My other question is this, will this trigger the idiot light or am I wasting my time on this?
Well after installing the 45 deg adapor the VDO sender must not communicate with my SW gauges as nothing registers what so ever! So frustrating, so I just ordered the SW sending units from Summit for both gauges. I will have the idiot light for the engine temp operational, but not the oil pressure. Oh well.......................... SIGH.
You must use compatible senders for your gauges. Different manufacturers may not be compatible. All you need to make the idiot light work is a brass fitting tee. There are a number of ways to do this. There is a picture in the very first post.
Ive read through this whole thread and still have a question. On the wiring for my oil pressure gauge the instructions say to take the earth wire coming out of the gauge to a good engine ground. And the earth wire from the sender to a good chassis ground. Ive earthed the gauge to the metal bolt on the accelerator pedal bracket and taken the 12v and switched 12 volt wires joined them and connected them to a switched 12 volt in the fuse panel. Gauge lights up when ignition is turned on. Now to the sender, its got two points to wire to, one is the green going into the car to the gauge. The other is an earth for the sender. Where would you put that earth? To the engine or the chassis?
What gauge are you referring to? Certainly not the stock gauge. Any metal part of the car should be a good ground as long as the battery and ground strap connections are good.
Yeah mate as Ive only just read this and already had a go at it, all is good and working. Earthed the gauge to metal under the dash , and the sender to the 3/8" bolt that secures the wiring loom to the oil pan rail. started her up and got 60 pound a bit over idle, keeping her running without too many revs cos of the forged pistons. soon as the engine would settle to a cammy idle there was 50 lbs showing, then I turned the engine off before I gassed myself in the closed up workshop. Got word tonight the gooses that run the strip have double booked us so no club day till late Sept...grrrrrrr! Sheeeeeit!, got rubber, oil pressure, octane boost, just gotta check total advance and shes ready to Rock...fugggit I'll drive out for the public Test n Tune this Wed evening...see what she runs!
Test n tune cancelled!!! Got the MT ET Steet SS on and zero wheelspin launching hard om the street. Just lifts her nose digs in and goes! And dont she friggin go!!! Good oil pressure, no pinging. Bought a dialback timing light off ebay should be here in a coupla days then I can advance her a bit with confidece
Where is a good place to plumb in an oil line for a an oil gauge? I'm struggling even after reading the thread about where to put this line/all lines from the three gauges I intend to buy. The stock oil gauge has died and I am likely going to replace the sender first, the gauge reads full pressure all the time now. Any tips?
If the wire falls off the sender, the gauge reads full all the time. You need to do a little more investigation before condemning the gauge.
Does that require digging through the dash? Or should I simply follow it all the way back inch by inch to discover the issue
