Fuel pump

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by Jerry Dyer, Jul 26, 2017.

  1. Jerry Dyer

    Jerry Dyer Active Member

    Hello, I'm planning to change out the fuel pump on my 69 Riviera. Nothing wrong with the one in the car. Just want to be on the safe side. Also want to have a look at the rubber hose in there with today's fuels
    I have two questions.
    1- why did Buick stop using an electric fuel pump in the Riviera?

    2- I also want to install a new fuel tank sending unit. Cannot find one, Rock Auto has nothing.
    The GM # 6428307 that I found on this site does not exist. Any other numbers out there ?

    Thank you Jerry
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I believe the Riviera was redesigned in 1971 (Boat Tail years) Guess the electric pump went out with the redesign.



    V8 member Yardley has a 12 second 69 Riviera. His page on his Riviera is here, http://1badriv.com/

    Here is what he had to say about the fuel pump.

    Hi Flow Fuel Pump

    I have had the luxury of meeting many Riviera racers. Two of them are brothers from the Chicago area. And they happen to have very high powered 69 and 70 Rivieras. And as a result, they have discovered that the factory electric in-tank fuel pump just can't supply the fuel requirements of high horsepower engines. It just doesn't flow enough nor does it have the pressure. And as a result (and I've experienced it too) once the engine starts revving in the higher RPM range the fuel bowls on the carburetor empty and the car literally runs out of gas and falls flat on its face - some refer to it as "nosing over".

    But...

    They have learned that the fuel pump from an 85 - 88 Ford truck with a 4 cyl or 6 cyl engine (I'm guessing it is for a Ford Ranger) is a direct bolt in replacement. The AC Delco number is EP297. I just told the NAPA guy I wanted that number and he just went and got it - and it was he that told me what it originally fit. Pressure at idle went up from 5psi to 6 3/4 to 7 psi and from 1.5 psi at WOT to around 4 psi at WOT, and the flow went from 30 gph to 40 gph. Needless to say there was much improvement, and no bogging at high RPM.

    Here you can see the 2 pumps side-by-side (click on the pic to enlarge it). While they are a direct bolt in, there are a couple of slight differences. You'll also notice in the picture on the right that I have used hose clamps to hold the OEM replacement pump in place, and I have done so with the new Ford pump as well. I don't like risking having things separate when there is an easy work around.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    The new pump is slightly shorter in body, inlet neck and exit neck lengths. Even so, I was able to just fit it in where the old one was. I believe it sits a little higher in the tank, so be sure to not let the fuel get too low. I tried like heck to affix the old sock, but it just wouldn't clamp down tight enough and I feared it would come off and lodge somewhere that I didn't want, so I used the sock it came with. The guys in Chicago installed it with no sock (I think to increase the flow a bit - and about 2 months later their pump failed!) but I chose to keep the debris out of the pump and maybe lose a tad of flow. And I also wasn't happy with how inflexible the new sock is, and didn't want to run the risk of it interferring with my fuel gauge float, so I installed it with the short end pointing down. I also had to do a little trimming to the rubber sleeve around the pump as it was bumping the float arm. I have not installed a fuel pressure regulator as of yet, and I'll decide after driving it a while if it needs one - but I don't think it will.

    That's it! You don't need to plumb a return line, and it sounds just like the OEM Buick pump. And now you have a much better fuel pump.

    I believe he has since converted over to a mechanical fuel pump.
     
    Harlockssx likes this.
  3. Jerry Dyer

    Jerry Dyer Active Member

    Thanks for the quick reply, I have visited his site and that's my plan.
    But I still would like to replace the sending unit. But can not find a good number for one.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I just gave Yardley a call. He will post here shortly. He said to have your sending unit rebuilt. That is what he did.

    http://tristarrradiator.com/
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    If its not broken, don't fix it! If there's nothing wrong with the sender, I'd put it back in. Even if it does go bad later on, it takes literally only a few minutes to remove
     
  6. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    Tri Star Radiator will rebuild your original sending unit. They do a great job. The Ford Ranger pump requires a small amount of fanagling to fit, and it ends up sitting higher in the tank because it is a shorter pump, so you will run out of gas before the sender reaches empty. You may be able to get yours to sit a little lower than I did. I never figured out how to attach the stupid sock they give you. I ran without one.
     
  7. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

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